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Lacking Power/ruff running

jman

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May 6, 2012
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Year, Model & Trim Level
2000 Ford Explorer 4.0OHV
2000 Ford Explorer 4.0L OHV 226000 miles lets see 300000 :)

I'll give you the run down.

Engine does burn oil (valve seals) cylinder 3 plug would foul up and cause blinking check engine light. Clean the plug and would be fine again for a few months.

A few days ago got the blinking check engine light, but then lost almost all power (accell not electrical power). And wouldn't go up a hill faster than 20mph. Clacking, popping from engine and loud threw the intake airbox

Scanner showed bank 1 sensor 1 O2 staying rich, miss on 1,2,3. Pulled plugs 1 & 2 black, 3 oil soaked but not completely fouled up. O2 sensor pulled and also black. (burning too much oil maybe?)

Missfire counters showed 1 & 2 having the highest and 3 not so bad (odd) with some counts on 6.

Compression tested engine and was about 175-180... leak down tested engine (cold) and 1,2,3,6 (the cylinders with missfires) had low leak, 4 and 5 moderate leak (those had no missfires) that to me seems odd...

Unplugged o2 sensor just to see if it was throwing the one bank off, no change in running and computer data went from being stuck at 900mv to 3mv.

Hooked vacumme gauge to intake port and stays steady and in the green. (however I didnt' think to see if it jumps under load)

Went ahead and replaced the valve seals on bank 1 to see if it's oil causing the problems. Was thinking maybe if the computer is trying to correct for lack of burn in cylinder 3 and throwing the bank way off (I think the computer can only change the bank and not just one injector ms duration) also put in a new B1S1 o2 sensor and plugs.

Started it back up, idles fine, good below 2k rpms, but once you get higher you hear the clacking and loud threw intake. Put it in drive and hold the brake while giving her gas and she gets ruff and popping. Only thing different is no check engine light blinking (it would do that right away before) also exhaust seems "HOT" prob because its rich but also noticed that smell before with bad head gaskets, however I did use the head gasket checker and didn't pick up anything with the engine up to temp....

I'm going to try unplugging the mass sensor, only other thing that comes to mind is valve timing (have to try the vac gauge under load and see if she jumps)

Anything else come to mind?

Thanks and sorry if this post is long but figure I'd try to cover everything I've done.
 






Well, unplugged the MAF sensor and no change.

Hooked vac gauge up again, and with it in gear underload it has a steady drop and the noise from the front. So I'm going to go with a jump chain/broken guide tensioner.

Will be pulling the front off the motor to take a look.
 






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