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Land Rover LR3 4.0L V6 Replace with 2008 Ranger VIN E


enb54

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Hi all...
Have a 2007 Land Rover LR3 with the Ford 4.0L V6 SOHC and the infamous "timing chain" (rear) slip, am planning on replacing the engine with a 2008 Ranger 4x4 V6 from a wreck. Am going to replace the timing chains and gears with the Cloyes kit (including balance shaft) so it should be an entertaining project, or will sell the whole mess for parts. Hoping we'll all learn something and/or be entertained trying. Will be starting within the next 2 weeks (I hope)...
 


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enb54

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Well I have started and seem to have a small problem with the 105K miles used engine. In the attached photo of the rear chain of this VIN "E" 4.0L SOHC engine from a 2008 Ranger 4x4, the right side of the chain (facing hydraulic tensioner) is tight, but the side facing the upper cassette bolt or intake manifold is quite slack, about 3/8" of play . The front chain is tight on both sides so I'm wondering if this is an indication of trouble ahead for the rear chain and should I just go ahead and replace it plus gears? I did look at the videos and there does not appear to be any slack on either side when they are replaced... Thanks in advance...

A_DSC00205.jpg
 




donalds

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the hydraulic tensioner gets oil pressure when the engine is started
It will then push on the guide s to take up the slack
I don't see any problems in your pic take a good picture down in the head so we can see the bottom of the guide where it is attached
Hope this helps
 




enb54

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the hydraulic tensioner gets oil pressure when the engine is started
It will then push on the guide s to take up the slack
I don't see any problems in your pic take a good picture down in the head so we can see the bottom of the guide where it is attached
Hope this helps
I'm not at the shop (about 85 miles away) and the only other photo I have is attached, there are no broken pieces and we don't hear any odd noises when we spin this engine over with a large drill.

DSC00206.JPG


You know, it just occurred to me that perhaps we could fill the engine with oil and turn it over until we get oil pressure, just to see if the rear chain tightens up on the other side, what do you think?
 




donalds

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You know, it just occurred to me that perhaps we could fill the engine with oil and turn it over until we get oil pressure, just to see if the rear chain tightens up on the other side, what do you think?
This will work lots of members do this to start their truck with no rattle takes about 5 seconds at starter speed
Your pic shows no damage I can see
 




donalds

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Also as I tell everyone to avoid this problem
Broken guides

Install a pre oiler
 




enb54

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Thanks Don,
will give this oil pressure idea a test next week and look into pre oilers, have already got a fused circuit for driving lights which I removed, wiring also includes a high current relay...
Eric...
 








CDW6212R

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That 105k mile engine should be a great engine to swap in. The tension of slack of the cam timing chains depends on the tensioners, and also the valve springs. Depending on which valves are open at the cam position, the springs will twist the cam in one direction or the other. So if you turn the crank slowly with no oil pressure, the two cams should each cause their chains to have changing tension on each side of that particular chain. That's normal, the real key is when there is oil pressure, that there is very little slack.

I've read different reviews of the Cloyes kit parts, and I have one of those to install into mine now. It does sound like most of those parts are very good, but some have suggested the two external tensioners are not as strong or robust as the Ford units. I bought the Ford parts for those, I suggest those for any 4.0 SOHC work.
 




enb54

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I've read different reviews of the Cloyes kit parts, and I have one of those to install into mine now. It does sound like most of those parts are very good, but some have suggested the two external tensioners are not as strong or robust as the Ford units. I bought the Ford parts for those, I suggest those for any 4.0 SOHC work.
I have the Cloyes tensioners already, so if I need one I'll try it first, going out to the shop in a couple of days to spin that engine over with oil in it, am thinking I was getting a bit paranoid about possible problems, but as my friends tell me I am a bit of a perfectionist when it comes to electronic and mechanical things. Anyway, having read a bit more about pre-lube systems am inclined to give that route some really hard thought, especially the accumulator type. Attached are before and after photos of yesterday's surgery...

DSC00199.JPG


DSC00200.JPG


DSC00207.JPG
 




enb54

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What size is your pre lube kit? I'm thinking the smallest for the small 4.0L V6... Also, I can't see any instructions, although imagining that you use a T at the oil pressure sender, which I'd have to think about because Land Rover has also got an oil temperature sender too...
 




donalds

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I bought the smallest tank I think kit a
the kit comes with the printed instructions like in the video s
 
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CDW6212R

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I bought the smallest tank I think kit a
the kit comes with the printed instructions like in the video s
I like that system better than the old race type of accumulator which was just a storage tank and a simpler control valve. I would choose that for any good keeper vehicle.

My projects that will have expensive engines built I hope to install oil pumps to provide rear pressure at any time. But those you have to set up with the oil filter circuit, not pump unfiltered oil, not provide a path around a filter, and have good pressure with the engine pump not turning. Details, I have one pump so far to play with when I get more time.
 




donalds

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I like that system better than the old race type of accumulator which was just a storage tank and a simpler control valve. I would choose that for any good keeper vehicle.

My projects that will have expensive engines built I hope to install oil pumps to provide rear pressure at any time. But those you have to set up with the oil filter circuit, not pump unfiltered oil, not provide a path around a filter, and have good pressure with the engine pump not turning. Details, I have one pump so far to play with when I get more time.
Best investment I ever made to my truck
 




CDW6212R

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Yes, I worried more about the timing chain issues than any of the rest of the truck. That's why I did the timing chain work when I bought it while repairing the body, and now again with the trans issue, maintenance.
 




enb54

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So far I've found products from Canton, Insta-lube, Autoenginelube (same as Insta-Lube?), Masterlube and Moroso. All look like they can do the job and you folks here have convinced me that pre-oiling is the way to fix the problem, so I'll have to mull over which is the one I'll use, all look pretty good. Will measure up space in the already crowded engine compartment and do more research, thanks for all the info...
 




donalds

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So far I've found products from Canton, Insta-lube, Autoenginelube (same as Insta-Lube?), Masterlube and Moroso. All look like they can do the job and you folks here have convinced me that pre-oiling is the way to fix the problem, so I'll have to mull over which is the one I'll use, all look pretty good. Will measure up space in the already crowded engine compartment and do more research, thanks for all the info...
I can only say good things about the insta lube kit been in my truck for 4 or 5 years now and never missed a beat
 




enb54

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Decided to have a local speed shop here get me a Moroso 1.5 quart for a good price, and I'll get a off the shelf 12 VDC 2/2 solenoid valve, build a timer and fabricate the hose myself with my handy dandy 16 ton hydraulic crimper. Went out to my friend's shop today and replaced both hydraulic tensioners with new Coyles (made in Italy) ones which I prelubed, and we spun the engine up to about 2000 rpm with my big old 1/2 HP electric drill. All chains tight as a drum, thank you all for the excellent advice. We couldn't check the compression or the oil pressure because I left my gauges at home (couldn't find his), but we will check that stuff next Tuesday. I am also going to drag out my dual trace oscilloscope to see at what angle the signal comes out of the crankshaft position sensor, checking it later against the Land Rover when we get it out there.

What size inside diameter hose would you folks advise for connecting the accumulator to the oil pressure sensor port on the block? Am going to use a T, oil sender on one side and Moroso on the other,I am thinking of #8 or #10 but have no experience with accumulators at all. I think the Moroso uses 1/2" NPT?

Thanks again for your help, I was going batty thinking about those chains...
 




shucker1

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I am also going to drag out my dual trace oscilloscope to see at what angle the signal comes out of the crankshaft position sensor, checking it later against the Land Rover when we get it out there.
Make me feel really good and tell my it's an old CRT Analog scope.....
 


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CDW6212R

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Decided to have a local speed shop here get me a Moroso 1.5 quart for a good price, and I'll get a off the shelf 12 VDC 2/2 solenoid valve, build a timer and fabricate the hose myself with my handy dandy 16 ton hydraulic crimper. Went out to my friend's shop today and replaced both hydraulic tensioners with new Coyles (made in Italy) ones which I prelubed, and we spun the engine up to about 2000 rpm with my big old 1/2 HP electric drill. All chains tight as a drum, thank you all for the excellent advice. We couldn't check the compression or the oil pressure because I left my gauges at home (couldn't find his), but we will check that stuff next Tuesday. I am also going to drag out my dual trace oscilloscope to see at what angle the signal comes out of the crankshaft position sensor, checking it later against the Land Rover when we get it out there.

What size inside diameter hose would you folks advise for connecting the accumulator to the oil pressure sensor port on the block? Am going to use a T, oil sender on one side and Moroso on the other,I am thinking of #8 or #10 but have no experience with accumulators at all. I think the Moroso uses 1/2" NPT?

Thanks again for your help, I was going batty thinking about those chains...

Well done, and the oil pressure sensor fitting and pipe is 1/4" NPT, so make it bigger than 1/4" ID, a #6 AN hose would be good.
 




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