LD50 Full-size axle thread `93 Ex

LD50 Full-size axle thread `93 Ex SAS

Hey fellow Explorer enthusiasts!

Well I never thought I`d do it, but it`s time.
I originally thought I would go to a smaller rig one day but I`m going to beef up the Explorer instead. Since I already have a huge thread on my previous work I decided to start fresh.

If you would like to see my previous mods, you can navigate from my signature link, or click here:
http://www.explorerforum.com/forums/showthread.php?p=523171#post523171

~

My plans are to install a D44 and 9-inch into the station wagon and run 35 inch tires. Hopefully she`ll still get in the garage, but if it don`t then oh well. During this I also have some body work to do.

Right now I have the rear end out, I took off the spare tire hanger and removed the muffler and rear most heat shield. (doors are off for body work)Next the gas tank comes out so I can prep the underside for rust protection, from the t-case back. In the meantime I am trying to sell some parts for cash.

First big decision is what gear ratio. The 4.10`s on 33s was nice, but I think I`d like a bit more torque than that so I`m thinking 4.88 or 5.13s.

 

[ld50]

The brake components and shoes came to about 200 CDN, Haven`t gotten to bearings yet. And still need brake line.

 

[Tony H]

Couldn't just drill a bit larger hole in the Perch?

 

[ld50]

In what parallel universe would I actually have the right sized drill bit?
not this one!

Sometimes you make do with what`s at hand, to save a trip into town.

 

[ld50]

Well, I`m making a little progress, but I have been distracted, since it`s cooling off around here dirtbikin` season has begun! Had an awesome weekend with just three buds, campin, and a little extreme ridin on my other blue toy...

 

[ld50]

But anyway, I now have all my brake hardware except for the brake lines, and I`m putting the drum brakes together. I actually had to get a few more things that weren`t included in the previous parts order. I didn`t realize until I started assembly that I was short, but here is the driver`s side, ready to rock..

 

[ld50]

The emergency brake cables are stock replacement for my axle. I will re-use my explorer "equalizer" bracket thingy, and may have to re-locate my old bracket that the driver`s side cable connects to, but I`ll see when the other side is all together. I really want emergency brakes for obvious reasons, and I want them to work properly.

-The emergency brake system is somewhat simple, you pull on the driver`s side cable, which is fastened by the equalizer to the passenger side cable, which is held in place by the frame bracket, thereby putting the same amount of pull to both brake systems.

At the same time I am figuring what I want for bumpstops. I estimate there to be 10 inches from the top of my U-bolt bracket. (which is my old modified Warrior skid plate shock mount - I can still use the mount by using the passenger side on the drivers side, when I flip it over the shock mount will be about where it was before)

So I`m thinking about using Energy brand bumpstops, 4.5 inches, which theoretically will compress to 2.25 inches, this will give me about 5- 5.5 inches of up-travel before they hit -and hopefully not stuff a 36 inch tire into my fenderwell. However, I might be off in my guesstimations, so if anyone wants to challenge my plan, please do!

 

[ld50]

Well my rear bumper is re-built and de-rustified. It`s back on now. I plan to make a cool rear tire carrier, built off my home-made hidden hitch. I got the plan worked out in my head, it won`t swing to the side, it will swing down to the ground.

First though, I`ve been planning to build an antiwrap bar, probably like samsoffroad sells. BUT. It seems to me that the forward end of the brace would have to mount very close to where the springs start, otherwise it would want to push the pinion down when my suspension compresses. I don`t see a lot of info here right now, but it seems if I mounted it too high it would definitely cause binding, I just don`t get it when I see pics elsewhere of guys homemade jobbies. I`ll post a pic I have and see what anyone reading this thinks. Perhaps it would have to be the same height as the pinion?
-It`ll be the third pic down. It seems to me that if the pinion angle is kind of held in place by the springs as they compress, that this bar would want to push it down, and twist the axle in the opposite direction that it wants to go. Of course it would not let it tip up tho -since it is so rigid. (?)

>edit< never did get an anti-wrap bar in there

 

[Tony H]

I have a very simple Track Bar on my CJ.
It bolts almost even with the Foward Leaf Bushings and I welded a bracket on the top of the axle very close to the 'U' bolts. It works extremely well to keep the axle from Wrap up and wheel hop. I understand what you are saying about the Springs flexing causing the axle to twist because of the rigidity of the Trackbar. It doesn't seem to work that way. That trackbar follows the axle up and down without twisting. Your axle is going up and down and the Front part of the trackbar is the rotation part while the part attached to the axle follows up and down.
The key is that the Front mounting of the Trackbar has to be very close to the Spring mount so they move together.

 

[sn0border88]

what did the rebuild on those 9" brakes cost ya?

 

[ld50]

Thanks, I figured it had to be close, if not dead even with the spring mount point, it looks like I have enough room between the u-bolts and muffler to fit it in there.

oh, I bought the center hose for the rear brakes so add another 20cdn to this PLUS about another 20 for a couple other things:

The brake components and shoes came to about 200 CDN, Haven`t gotten to bearings yet. And still need brake line.

-that includes drums

 

[ld50]

Pulled the Ex out and turned it around today. I still need brake line from center hose to either side so in the mean time I plugged the rear line by inserting a small nail into the line and tightening it to the center hose, the head of the nail thereby stopping flow. (good tip I read in a 4x4 mag)

I just put the third member back in with 4 bolts, mounted the axles in, and put the old tires that were on the axle on to get it moving. Still gotta do gears and bearings, shocks and anti-wrap bar, but that`ll have to wait till I can budget for it.

In the meantime, I can rip the front axle out, since that is free.

 

[ld50]

Hey, still iffy on the antiwrap bar, samsoffroad .com shows this bar installed and it`s nowhere near the forward spring mount. Is it still just me or does it seem like it would bind? Can`t get my head around it man..

-gotta click the link, then click the pic of the bar on upper left, THEN find the mounted link there.

http://www.sams4x4store.com/index.html

 

[ld50]

Okay no one cares, well I`m seeing this antiwrap setup as performing better in a street car, in the meantime I`m not considering it anymore, at least until I get some other stuff done.

Now I`m stripping the front down. I want to do more painting and anti-rust stuff underneath, so off comes the tranny and transfer case, which will be cleaned up to get a couple coats of "old Ford blue" engine paint, also, I`m pulling the oil pan which will undergo the same treatment, I thought it may have been leaking a little. -So it should all look pretty trick afterwards.

 

[redranger4.0]

Hey, still iffy on the antiwrap bar, samsoffroad .com shows this bar installed and it`s nowhere near the forward spring mount. Is it still just me or does it seem like it would bind? Can`t get my head around it man..

-gotta click the link, then click the pic of the bar on upper left, THEN find the mounted link there.

http://www.sams4x4store.com/index.html

the "shackle" and pivoting front joint are what keep it from binding. the shackle allows the bar to move forward to back yet it still keeps the axle from twisting. theres a whole thread on pirate about it, ill try and see if i can find it.

 

[ld50]

Right now the y-pipe bolts to the exaust header are soaking in penetrating fluid. I`m not even gunna put a wrench on them yet for fear of ruining the bolts. Unfortunately they screw right into the exhaust manifold. I want to get them out of the way for re-install of the tranny, it`s a pain to work around them.
-But-
There`s another reason they have to come off; a darker more sinister reason. What I thought was only an oil leak from my oilpan actually may be all coming from another place, yes, my driver`s side head gasket is leaking, so I am (very) unfortunately faced with the job of replacing my head gaskets before the Explorer will see action. It will have to be the last step, I got too many bolts and gizmos scattered about the shop to worry about it for now.

 

[ld50]

Hey redranger, I`m more iffy on the idea that as my springs compress the axle pivots alot less than the anti-wrap bar would allow. The antiwrap bar would keep the axle, or pinion angle pointed at a certain point(axis?) throughout compression and extension, it`s pivot would be controlled by the antiwrap bar rather than the springs. Or so it seems to me..

 

[mitch]

man that sucks. why dont you save up a little more and buy 302 crate motor

 

[goliath]

Right now the y-pipe bolts to the exaust header are soaking in penetrating fluid. I`m not even gunna put a wrench on them yet for fear of ruining the bolts. Unfortunately they screw right into the exhaust manifold. I want to get them out of the way for re-install of the tranny, it`s a pain to work around them.
-But-
There`s another reason they have to come off; a darker more sinister reason. What I thought was only an oil leak from my oilpan actually may be all coming from another place, yes, my driver`s side head gasket is leaking, so I am (very) unfortunately faced with the job of replacing my head gaskets before the Explorer will see action. It will have to be the last step, I got too many bolts and gizmos scattered about the shop to worry about it for now.

thats not the head gasket, its the lower intake manifold gasket, and it took me 3 tries to get it to seal. there is no gasket there, its made out of rtv. thats why its so hard to get to seal and leaks easily.

-joshua

 

[ld50]

thats not the head gasket, its the lower intake manifold gasket, and it took me 3 tries to get it to seal. there is no gasket there, its made out of rtv. thats why its so hard to get to seal and leaks easily.

Wow man, that would be a little easier than the head gasket, to say the least! I wouldn`t have thought that there is a way for oil to leak out through the intake manifold, you`re sure that`s it huh? THANKS for the post!

-PS I take it your oil leak ran down and dripped off the bottom of the tranny where it bolts up, and coated the inside of the bell too?

Hey Mitch, I`ll get right on it, lol.

 

[goliath]

Wow man, that would be a little easier than the head gasket, to say the least! I wouldn`t have thought that there is a way for oil to leak out through the intake manifold, you`re sure that`s it huh? THANKS for the post!

-PS I take it your oil leak ran down and dripped off the bottom of the tranny where it bolts up, and coated the inside of the bell too?

Exactly the symptoms i had. it fawked up my clutch pretty good getting oil on it also, though mine leaked a quart every 500 miles. The intake manifold covers the cam oil galley beneath, and seals it on both ends. it has a paper gasket to seal the intake ports, but not to seal the oil galley ends. Its a piss poor design not to have a paper gasket there in my opinion.