Leaf spring clamps

[Whisperingwayne]

Hey guys I threw some f-150 5 leaf packs on the rear of my rig but I've had a problem with them fanning out. One ride the leaf punched a hole in my fuel tank! To bandaid the problem I've thrown on some large stainless hose clamps but the other week I broke those too. There's old threads on the subject but I want to know what y'all are doing now?

 

[BKennedy]

I made up a set of frakenleaf packs for my 1994 Explorer out of two sets of OEM springs. I cut them down to the size I wanted. I added a keeper to the rear of the lower spring. If it was on the front like OEM, it would contact the frame during compression. I made it out of some 1"x1/8" thick flat bar with a stainless bolt and nylon lock nut. I used a "Elevator" bolt, which is a bolt like a carriage bolt but with a flat head. I bolted it through one of the holes for the plastic round slider thingies with a nylon lock nut and cut the bolt off flush. The keeper allows the leafs to flex more than a clamp and I think it reduces fatigue. I also coated all the leafs with graphite spray paint to help them flex. Works great, but the graphite paint is messy and rubs off over time. Its been several years with no issues. The only problem I have had with them is they rebound a little too fast, even with double shocks. I am eventually going to replace them with a custom set from National Spring. I removed the spacers between the leafs shown in the pictures to reduce the overall height 1/2".

Frakenleaf packs

Better picture of keepers

Elevator bolt

Graphite paint

 

[SWIGIN]

If you got rid of those pads from the middle and the ends the leaves will side less and act less ''springy''.

I never use that stuff when I do a pack. I think the results are better.

 

[BKennedy]

They were removed when I installed to adjust the ride height.

 

[Whisperingwayne]

Those look great! I've seen those type of clamps before but hadn't understood how they worked. The elevator bolt just goes through the hole in the first leaf? Aren't those pads your referring to some sort of plastic or Teflon slider? I though they had more to do with noise than anything else.

 

[BKennedy]

Those look great! I've seen those type of clamps before but hadn't understood how they worked. The elevator bolt just goes through the hole in the first leaf? Aren't those pads your referring to some sort of plastic or Teflon slider? I though they had more to do with noise than anything else.

Elevator bolt goes through the hole in the back of the leaf.
Pads are just for squeaks and binding if leafs get corrosion on them. Graphite paint takes care of both of those.

They flex pretty good too.

 

[Whisperingwayne]

Those look awesome! I was originally thinking of welding an old square u bolt to the add a leaf to stop them from fanning. It seems like I read some people do that to allow maximum amount of flex. But overall I love how clean your setup is and it doesn't seem to hinder performance any. I'm limited in flex from my ifs anyway.

 

[BKennedy]

Welding to leafs doesn't work very well. I know a few people who have tried it and either the weld cracks and the bolt falls off, or the leaf breaks across the weld.

 

[Whisperingwayne]

I've been looking everywhere for clamps like yours BKennedy but haven't been able to find any for 2.5" springs. Could I use 3" clamps? I figure that only leaves .25" of clearance on both sides of the spring.

 

[BKennedy]

Go to any store that sells metal stock. Purchase a piece of 1" to 1-1/4" wide by 1/8" thick piece of flat bar, 2, 3/8 SAE bolts 1" longer than the width of your leaf springs and locking nylon nuts. Cut to length you need you need; width of leaf + height of leaf pack X2, + 3".

Bend in vice to fit over leaf springs, it bends more square if you heat with a torch. Drill centering hole, and 2, 3/8" bolt holes. Mount to your leaf spring, using the rear hole in the lower leaf with a elevator bolt and nylon lock nut. After tightening, cut end of bolt off flush with top of nut. Run 3/8 bolt through holes, secure with nylon lock nut. You can get all fancy like I did and find some tubing the 3/8 bolt will fit into to keep the tops from bending inward, but it is not necessary.

Should cost less than $10.00 total. I used some scrap stock and bolts I already had so it cost me a few dollars for the locking nuts and some tubing.

 

[Whisperingwayne]

I got mine installed. Don't look quite as pretty as yours but they will do what they were designed to do. Still have to cut of the excess bolt.

 

[BKennedy]

Yeah, just like that.

Make sure to cut that bottom bolt off flush with the top of the nut before you go out in rocks.