Leaf Spring Woes (with a V8)

[mounty71]

Two questions/problems i am dealing with on my V8 mountaineer:

1) I had to unbolt the factory traction bars and now i am finding it just about impossible to reinstall them, because the axle has twisted backwards ever-so-slightly and the traction bar is now a bit too short. Which leads me to my next question; are the traction bars necessary? I know what their purpose is, but i also know that some explorers did not have them (i think the V6s). I have had an add-a-leaf for years and just put on extended shackles last night, and i am now wondering if with both of these additions, do the traction bars bind with the leaf springs, inhibiting suspension travel? And if they are necessary, how can i twist the axle forward to get them back on?

2) As stated above, i have just the stock 4 door leaf pack with an AAL and extended shackles, and the main leaf is worn and has flattened over the years to where the only points of contact with the leaf below it are at the center bolt and the front and back ends of the 2nd leaf. My roommate is telling me that this is dangerous, especially with the heavy use of offroading, and that the main leaf will eventually break where it is supported by the ends of the 2nd leaf. Should i be very worried? I understand that all of the weight of the vehicle is now focused on just 3 points on the main leaf, so it makes sense that it could potentially happen. But it also just seems to be the nature of leaf springs and the wear that they go through. Opinions?

 

[Tbars4]

...It seems like you have a couple things going on...When you unhooked your traction bar and ran your vehicle, it sounds like you got your pinion angle off...The V8's would have the torsion bar as they would have more torque going to the wheels and this would help keep this from happening...It sounds like you need to reset your axle as it spun a bit...If you don't, you will probably be looking not only to replace your u joints, but you are stressing your drive shaft too...

...That being disonnected, high torque, and having warn leaf springs, would definitely increase your possibility of axle wrap...Snapping/cracking springs would be inevitable...

:ttiwwp:

 

[volver]

Yes you want the traction bars. If you floor the v8, the torque will cause the axel to twist backwards, bending the springs in to an S shape. Connect the tracton bar to the frame. Set the parking brake. Get another car to pull your car forward or backward till the holes on the axel line up with the tracton bar. Maybe try and loosen some of the mounting brackets.

Sounds like more that just normal wear. This may also be why your traction bars dont line up. I dont think its going to break, but its gunk. You need to get a new set of springs + AAL.

If its an off road only rig you need to get a custom leaf pack. Leaves should be thin, but there should be alot of them. Thin leaves hold there shape better than thick leaves.

 

[Spdrcer34]

Jack the X up, Get both wheels off the ground.

Remove the wheels

Loosen, but do not remove the 4 U-bolts that attach the axle tube to the Leaf Springs. You want the axle to be able to 'rock' back and forth on the pads.

Attach the traction bar to the frame, finger tighten the nut.

With the axle having a LOT more play you are now able to hook up the axle end of the traction bar. Finger tighten the bolt.

Tighten the U-bolts back up. That will draw the axle into the correct angle

Tighten the Axle end of the Traction Bar.

Put the wheels back on, lower it back to the ground.

Tighten the frame end of the Traction Bar.

DO NOT do one side at a time. Go back and forth from side to side and do each step. It makes it a little easier. And it will take less time.

Ryan

 

[mounty71]

I finished up after midnight last night so it was too dark for pictures, but here are a couple i just took.

Thanks for your replies, it sounds like i'll be trying again to get the traction bars back on, and then looking for another leaf pack this weekend.

 

[mounty71]

Another round of questions for you guys.

The axle only spun backwards a fraction of a degree when the traction bars were disconnected, so i don't think the pinion angle has changed enough to cause any problems. But my friend and i are thinking that it may have spun because with the lift the truck has, the traction bar is now a bit too short (as the axle droops, the distance from frame to axle obviously gets longer). What do you think about extending the traction bars by maybe 1/2 or 3/4 of an inch? This way they wont bind so much with the springs when fully drooped.

Also, nobody commented on the condition of the main leaf. Should i be overly worried about the main leaf breaking where the 2nd leaf supports it?

 

[Tbars4]

...:shifty_ey ...Wait for the Turdle to speak...

 

[Turdle]

Like he has a clue ^^^

wait, oh yeah, that's me.

I swapped in a locked 410 rear diff, which never had trac bar mounts. It was in Mountaineergreens truck for well over a year, then into mine.



I see no issues. My trac bars are on the shelf.

 

[danwaters]

The traction bars are a must with the v-8s. The explorer sports with 2 doors and the SOHC 4.0s have traction bars too. Just do as one of the readers posted and loosen the ubolts and you will be able to twist the axle slightly forward no problem. The torque and the weight trasnfer the explorers with v-8s get really highlights the axle wrap we get.

 

[Turdle]

The traction bars are a must with the v-8s. The explorer sports with 2 doors and the SOHC 4.0s have traction bars too. Just do as one of the readers posted and loosen the ubolts and you will be able to twist the axle slightly forward no problem. The torque and the weight trasnfer the explorers with v-8s get really highlights the axle wrap we get.

Umm
I have a MODIFIED v8 3000 stall converter, and no trac bars. Several street launches and several trails--knarly trails, have been seen without trac bars on my truck.

No 410 ratio rear axle ever had them. Some v8's came without them from the factory after the 2000 model year.

Read my post above.

 

[danwaters]

Umm
I have a MODIFIED v8 3000 stall converter, and no trac bars. Several street launches and several trails--knarly trails, have been seen without trac bars on my truck.

No 410 ratio rear axle ever had them. Some v8's came without them from the factory after the 2000 model year.

Read my post above.

Mine is a 97 and came from the factory with them. I tore up a bunch of sets of springs but that was a little more serious off roading I guess compared to trails. Im more of a higher speed off road junkie. I have 456s and 35s. I guess long travel leafs with no overload springs make enough of a difference.

 

[mounty71]

Mine is a 97 and came from the factory with them. I tore up a bunch of sets of springs but that was a little more serious off roading I guess compared to trails. Im more of a higher speed off road junkie. I have 456s and 35s. I guess long travel leafs with no overload springs make enough of a difference.

You're dan on dezert rangers right? I really like your truck. Anyway, i will be putting the traction bars back on when i get a new leaf pack (better safe than sorry), i was just wondering if extending them to compensate for the lift would be effective at all.

 

[danwaters]

You're dan on dezert rangers right? I really like your truck. Anyway, i will be putting the traction bars back on when i get a new leaf pack (better safe than sorry), i was just wondering if extending them to compensate for the lift would be effective at all.

Yes sir and thank you very much. its about to go under the knife for a full cage and new rear suspension set up. The factory location of the traction bars is a pretty good location so I would not extend them. I have 16 inches of rear wheel travel and there is no binding due to the traction bars.

 

[mounty71]

Yes sir and thank you very much. its about to go under the knife for a full cage and new rear suspension set up. The factory location of the traction bars is a pretty good location so I would not extend them. I have 16 inches of rear wheel travel and there is no binding due to the traction bars.

I've been following your build over there, looking forward to seeing how it'll turn out.

I was thinking more of cutting and sleeving the traction bar instead of moving the mount back. But for only the 10" or so of travel i have, it probably wont make much of a difference, if any.

 

[danwaters]

I've been following your build over there, looking forward to seeing how it'll turn out.

I was thinking more of cutting and sleeving the traction bar instead of moving the mount back. But for only the 10" or so of travel i have, it probably wont make much of a difference, if any.

there is no need to alter them

 

[gavin]

my traction bars no longer fit after AAL and shackles also.

I'm pretty sure it's because the shackles do change the pinion angle ever so much, plus the added height make it no longer fit at static ride height.

 

[Dannyboy]

Matt do you by chance have a photo of the axle end of your traction bars. I need to replace the bushing on mine and have no clue where to start. my traction bars have a diameter of about 1.5" and a depth of about 1.25"

 

[danwaters]

Matt do you by chance have a photo of the axle end of your traction bars. I need to replace the bushing on mine and have no clue where to start. my traction bars have a diameter of about 1.5" and a depth of about 1.25"

I ended up making new ones with bushing mounts on the frame and a 3/4 heim on the axle side out of 1"x .250 tubing. Now I just have to make new ones cause my new wheel base is 3 inches further back

 

[mounty71]

I'll get some pictures for you when i can. Are you coming to truckhaven? If so, you'll have a chance to look at it there, and JT is bringing some traction bars for me too because mine are still not reinstalled yet.

 

[Dannyboy]

yeah, I'll be there for a bit. I just need to track down the bushing that goes into them and it's not an easy part to find on catalogs. I tried using a 98 Mounty on Rockauto but I'm not seeing the bushing.