Leaking Drain Plug...

[bs46488]

I'm sure this is a stupid question, but.....

I installed a drain plug in the pan of my transmission (to make fluid and filter changes cleaner)

Anyway, just as I thought, it leaks. I got a nice tight hole and the kit has a rubber ring on each side, plus an o-ring on the drain plug. It is leaking from the hole in the pan, not the drain plug. I want to just caulk around the bolt, can I do that? Also, what type of stuff do I caulk with?

I'm not really into draining the pan to fix this the proper way.

Thanks....

 

['97 V8]

You could ise black RTV and that would keep it from leaking. I used Black RTV as a sealent between my t-case and tranny. Also Red and even blue rtv will work just fine.

 

[BrooklynBay]

I've never had good experiences with those fit all drain plugs. I would do one of two things in your case. First of all, any epoxy that you want to patch it with will not stick if there is ATF. Second of all, applying adhesive around the outside is not such a good idea. You now have only 2 options to make it work without worrying about future leaks. Both options require removing the pan. The first option is to take the plug out, and get a plastic gasket like they use on some engine drain plugs. Put one on the inside, and another one on the outside. Lock the plug after this, and test the pan with water before reconnecting it. If it starts to leak, then go to the next plan. The second method would be to remove any rubber, or plastic gaskets on there, and solder the piece directly to the pan with a blow torch, solder, and paste. I only solder a 1/2"-20 nut inside of the pan, and use a magnetic drain plug. Those kits have a bushing, and a tiny plug that takes forever for the fluid to drain out. My 1/2" drain plug is a regular size plug that is used on engines.

 

[ExplorerDMB]

if it's leaking from the threads of the plug...then just use some thread sealer. You use this usually on water pump bolts that go into water jackets. NAPA has it. They will know what you're talking about if you ask for thread sealer - comes in a tape and a brush on application

-Drew

 

[bs46488]

Well, I spent a $1.74 on RTV Black and it still leaks. I guess I'll have to suck it up and drop the pan again this weekend and do it the right way. When I was under the car, I could see that the plastic washer has split.

I have just a couple quick questions:

1) I just put on a new gasket on Sunday, can I reuse this gasket (cork) or do I need to purchase a new one?

2) Can I re-use the ATF considering it's only going to be 6 days old? (Considering it's not contaiminated during the process.)

3) What can I seal it with. Can I put a plastic washer with an o-ring under it? Should I use the RTV Black, then put the plastic washer on top of that?

4) I think the culprit for spliting the washer was that I torqued it too much. Does anyone know, are you only supposed to "tighten" these, or reef them down for life?

Thanks again.

 

[410Fortune]

I doubt you can re-use your cork gaskets, also the cork gaskets suck ass (rip when you pull the pan off, depending on if you used a sealant with it) But basically plan to replace it.

Some of the rubber gaskets are re-usable.
reusing the Mercon is asking for trouble, you will only lose 4-5 quarts with the pan drop, here is a chance to swap out some more fluid! (dont forget unless you evacuated the converter and cooling when you did your filter and pan you only got 50% or less of the fluid out the first time)

Plastic washers suck, use copper avail at any parts store. the good copper ones have ribs in them just like the plasitc washers and compress against the pan surfaces sealing them up tight, silicoln is used in addition to these.
I sealed up my drain plug with RTV silicoln and an anabolic sealer on the threads, does not leak a drop. I would prefer to weld in a bung for the drain plug too but this is not always an option, especially with aluminum pans....

I use my drain plug as a combination spot for my trans temp sender, works really well!

 

[spindlecone]

Those aftermarket plugs are crap, As BB said nothing will stick at this point without removing the pan and starting over.
drop it, clean it, take it to a welding shop and have it brazed.
Solder is not viable on steel componants.

 

[shannon.hensley]

I'm sure this is a stupid question, but.....

I installed a drain plug in the pan of my transmission (to make fluid and filter changes cleaner)

Anyway, just as I thought, it leaks. I got a nice tight hole and the kit has a rubber ring on each side, plus an o-ring on the drain plug. It is leaking from the hole in the pan, not the drain plug. I want to just caulk around the bolt, can I do that? Also, what type of stuff do I caulk with?

I'm not really into draining the pan to fix this the proper way.

Thanks....

use RTV is black but let it dry before refilling

 

[ExplorerDMB]

RTV isn't the greatest to use. I was told by a transmission guy to NEVER use RTV. Only because most people will use too much and some can actually get into the transmission. Now, with that said - Chrysler remains the only company that uses silicone straight off the assembly line. Anyhow, a rubber seal would be beneficial.

-Drew

 

[BrooklynBay]

Is the silicone on the Chrysler a special purpose type, or is it basically the same as any other RTV silicone? I know that Permatex makes a form a gasket silicone that is supposed to replace an ordinary gasket. I've never used it, so I can't offer any advice if it is good, or not.