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Leaking seals from front differential

crunchie_frog

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Multiple 99-00 5.0 AWD
2000 5.0 AWD 145K miles

Pictures below are from leaks from front differential and axles. Anyone ever tackle this job before? Is it worth worrying about? I am guessing it is lip seals out of the differential, but what has to be done to get to them?

DSC06884.jpg

DSC06885.jpg

http://i140.photobucket.com/albums/r24/rtoddharris/DSC06886-1.jpg
 


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corkey

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You have to pull both front axles out of the differential, than pry out the old seals, and push in the new ones, than reassemble the axles again,
a bit of a job, but can be all done with hand tools,,
 




corkey

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Elite Canuck,multiple ifs offender,, and musky maniac,, i wheel and i fish,,
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99 xls,96 xl,91,08 Ranger
also make sure you top up the diff too, so it has the proper amount of lube in it,,
good time to go to synthetic lube,,
 




crunchie_frog

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Thanks for the info, sounds like <$50 parts(for seals and lubricants,and guessing new axle nuts), nice weekend project sometime.
 




ugexe

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You probably have a bad pinion seal as well. Heres instructions for that...

Pinion seal:
WARNING: The electrical power to the air suspension system must be shut off prior to hoisting, jacking or towing an air suspension vehicle. This can be accomplished by turning off the air suspension switch located in the rear jack storage area. Failure to do so can result in unexpected inflation or deflation of the air springs, which can result in shifting of the vehicle during these operations.

Raise and support the vehicle. For additional information, refer to Section 100-02.
NOTE: The front wheels and tires and brake calipers must be removed to prevent drag during the drive pinion preload recording and adjustment.

Remove the front tires and wheels. For additional information, refer to Section 204-04.
CAUTION: When removing the disc brake caliper (2B120), never allow it to hang from the brake hose. Provide a suitable support.

Remove the brake caliper and anchor plate as an assembly.

Index-mark the front driveshaft and pinion flange.

CAUTION: Do not allow the driveshaft to hang unsupported.

Disconnect the front driveshaft from the pinion flange, and position it aside.
Remove the bolts and the universal joint spider retainers.
Disconnect the front driveshaft from the pinion flange.
Position the front driveshaft aside.

Measure the pinion bearing preload.
Using a Nm (inch-pound) torque wrench, measure the torque required to maintain pinion rotation. Record the measurement.

Index-mark the pinion flange and the pinion stem.

Use the special tool to hold the pinion flange while removing the nut.

CAUTION: Place a drain pan under the differential housing.

Using the special tool, remove the pinion flange.

Inspect the pinion flange for burrs and damage. Inspect the end of the pinion flange that contacts the bearing cone, the nut counterbore, and the seal surface for nicks. Discard the pinion flange as necessary.
Using the special tool and a suitable impact slide hammer, remove the pinion seal.

Remove the front axle drive pinion shaft oil slinger and the differential pinion bearing.

Remove and discard the collapsible spacer.
Installation

Verify that the splines on the pinion stem are free of burrs. If burrs are evident, remove them with a fine crocus cloth. Work in a rotating motion to wipe the pinion clean.
Clean the pinion seal bore.
Install a new collapsible spacer.
Install the original differential pinion bearing and the front axle drive pinion shaft oil slinger.

Lubricate the pinion seal.
Using the special tool, install the pinion seal.

Lubricate the pinion flange splines.
CAUTION: Never use a metal hammer on the pinion flange or install the flange with power tools. If necessary, use a plastic hammer to tap on a tight fitting flange.

Align the index marks and install the pinion flange.

Install the new nut hand-tight.

CAUTION: Do not loosen the nut to reduce preload. Install a new collapsible spacer and nut if preload reduction is necessary.

Use the special tool to hold the pinion flange while tightening the nut to set the preload.
Tighten the nut, rotating the pinion occasionally to ensure the differential pinion bearings are seating correctly. Take frequent differential pinion bearing preload readings by rotating the pinion with a Nm (inch-pound) torque wrench. The final reading must be 0.56 Nm (5 lb-in) more than the initial reading taken during removal.

Align the index marks and position the front driveshaft.

Install the universal joint spider retainers and bolts.

Check the fluid level and, if necessary, fill the axle to specification with lubricant.
Install the caliper and anchor plate assembly.

Install the wheel and tire assembly. For additional information, refer to Section 204-04.
Lower the vehicle.
 




crunchie_frog

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Thanks for the replys. I was looking at the sticky's on front axle removals and saw the ones about upper control arm and lower ball joint replacement. I am afraid I will get into this job and want to do both of these since I will already have the axle nut off. How can I tell if the the upper control arm and the lower ball joints need replacing?

Thanks,
 




drdoom

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Thanks for the replys. I was looking at the sticky's on front axle removals and saw the ones about upper control arm and lower ball joint replacement. I am afraid I will get into this job and want to do both of these since I will already have the axle nut off. How can I tell if the the upper control arm and the lower ball joints need replacing?

Thanks,

How I did it was place the jack under the lower control arm, as close to the wheel as I could, raising the wheel about two inches off the ground, slid a three foot piece of 2x4 (anything will work, pry bar, pipe, etc.) under the tire, and levered up on the tire. Check for looseness of the upper ball joint. One was so badly worn no leverage was required, I just put my hand on the tire and CLUNK CLUNK CLUNK. Tires had irregular wear, and front end would CLUNK when driving over small bumps. Those "sealed units" that you cannot grease are a rip off. The MOOG I installed has a fitting, and I added the others with my drill. Whne adding grease to those fine "sealed units", I noticed that they come with very little grease in them. Also, do some checking on prices, they can vary a lot. And try not to get caught in the trap "I need it now" because you won't be as likely to shop around or have them shipped to you. There are a lot of brands, pick one that is suitable for what your needs are: If you want it to last and be serviceable, get something good. If not, our Chinese friends make all kinds of radioactive crap you can put in there.
 




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