Leaking water pump and DTC P0340

[Mitchs07explorer]

the plot thickens! I got a little more time last night to play around with my project (97 5.0 AWD). My new scanner arrived in the mail yesterday and I gave it a test run with the ignition on but engine off. It gave me the DTC P0340 which is the cam shaft position sensor or circuit malfunction. I also read a "Permanent DTC" that I was unable to read, I'm not sure if that's because the engine was off or because the scanner can't read those codes from this car. My EGR tube is nearly broken in half and I'm pretty sure RH side header is cracked too. I'm hoping that once I repair those things the permanent dtc code will clear or at least the car will be mobile enough ill be able to hook it up to a better quality scanner and see if it'll give me the code.

I've got a pretty significant coolant leak and I believe it's the water pump/ gasket that has failed. Isn't the CPS and water pump right near each other? I wonder if the sensor or electrical connector got soaked in coolant. Looks like there's some good videos on YouTube and a few right ups about the pump and the CPS. I'm a little apprehensive about changing the water pump because of the issues with the bolts and studs. I'll be buying a stud extractor before I start this project. Anyone else here throw the P0340 code, was it the sensor that failed or was it something in the circuit?

 

[J_C]

Yeah just fix what you know is wrong and go from there. If it's not a daily driver then I wouldn't wait till I had a stud extractor, just go ahead and see if the pump bolts come loose, even if you don't do the whole job at the time.

CPS, yes I'd expect the sensor itself or fouled connector as you stated. I'd get the sensor and go from there. Many plugs, if you have a day that's not terribly cold and some small tools like picks, x-acto knife blade, miniature needle nose pliers, etc, you can pull the back out of the connector and slide the wire and contacts out to examine and possibly clean them, if it turns out that just swapping the sensor alone doesn't get the job done.

Granted on a connector that might get hit with road spray later on, it could be that if the silicone gasket on it is shot, you might get the contacts clean enough to work fine but eventually need a new connector.

 

[koda2000]

A bad alternator can also trigger CPS a fault code.

 

[Mitchs07explorer]

I had a couple hours yesterday to do some digging around. The sensor and the synchronizer were both toast! I've got a new motorcraft sensor, synchronizer and water pump on order from stockwise auto. I'm going to have the alternator and and battery tested at my local auto parts store and see if they're still good. Here's a pic of what I found when I removed the sensor from the synchronizer.

 

[koda2000]

View attachment 155955 View attachment 155956 I had a couple hours yesterday to do some digging around. The sensor and the synchronizer were both toast! I've got a new motorcraft sensor, synchronizer and water pump on order from stockwise auto. I'm going to have the alternator and and battery tested at my local auto parts store and see if they're still good. Here's a pic of what I found when I removed the sensor from the synchronizer.

Wow! I guess you found the problem with the CPS. I hope you sprang for the Motorcraft brand synchronizer. The reman's and Dorman's have a bad rep for breaking. I know it's tempting to get the cheaper synchro, but that's one part that I'd pay for to get the Motorcraft.

 

[Mitchs07explorer]

Wow! I guess you found the problem with the CPS. I hope you sprang for the Motorcraft brand synchronizer. The reman's and Dorman's have a bad rep for breaking. I know it's tempting to get the cheaper synchro, but that's one part that I'd pay for to get the Motorcraft.

I opted for the motorcraft parts, I've come across to many threads in regards to regrets with Dorman or most aftermarket parts. Whenever I've tried Dorman parts they're either way out of spec or truly aren't the right part, on 3 separate occasions I've had to to return Dorman parts for being so out of spec. One Dorman part (blendoor actuator) I got to work in my wife's 11 Mustang after cutting part of an edge off to get it to fit in place. The 4 months later it broke and I replaced it with the motorcraft part lol. I've got to figure out which parts to go with when I get to the EGR tube and RH side exhaust header.

 

[koda2000]

I totally agree with your opinion/experience with Dorman parts. The only time I buy Dorman is when there's no other choice, or for parts that I figure they couldn't have managed to screw up. Last year I broke an OE rear axle on my POS '01 Sport Trac (which I only drive around town) and wanted something new but cheap. I bought a Dorman axle, which came with the bearing and seal. It fit fine and so far so good, but I had to replace the lug studs, because the ones the axle came with were too short and the nuts were the wrong style. It's always something with Dorman's crap.

 

[Mitchs07explorer]

Looks like it was the gasket that gave up I think the pump is still functional but am going to replace it anyhow. One of the parts of the gasket that gave up was right over the crank position sensor and that connection was full of coolant. I cleaned both the socket and the plug out and hit them with a can of electronic parts cleaner. The connections look like new now so hopefully there was any damage done to it.

The bolts on the pump weren't too bad to get out, pretty rusty but luckily I didn't have any break on me. I'm taking the bolts with me to work today to clean them up, hopefully later this week or on the weekend I'll get a chance to get the pump back on. Then I need to install the camshaft synchronizer and cam position sensor and then after that replace the EGR tube. I'm keeping my fingers crossed that the RH manifold isn't cracked, I want to more time out of the stock headers because I eventually want to put a set of torque monsters on it as long as everything runs well.