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Left front turn signal and running light not working

dco43054

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I read a couple other threads from other years, but nothing answered my question.

As the title says, I have a 2016 XLT and just the left front turn signal is not working. The left mirror and left rear turn signals work, as do the right side signals.

I checked the bulb and it works on both filaments. Using my meter, I checked the ground wire on the bulb socket and it checks. There is no power to the socket. I removed the socket from the connector it is attached to and have no power to either point.

I tried resetting the body computer by disconnecting the battery cable. I read that in another thread and thought "why not, so much other strange stuff is fixed by a total power off". But no luck, the left front still did not work.

I could not find a specific fuse in the fuse diagrams for the left front. There were some references in another thread to fuses 13 and 14, but those don't seem to align with a turn signal and front running light on mine. The front left side running light does work.

I'm stumped. Anyone have any experience with this? Hopefully, a successful experience in getting it working.

Thanks
 


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peterk9

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I don't believe I've read about this particular issue before. By "running light" I'm guessing you are talking about the parking lamp. Do you also have DRL on them?

Peter
 




dco43054

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Yeah, running lamp, parking lamp, just depends on your era.

The DRL are the LEDs around the headlamps.

And I found the parking lamp on the passenger side is not working either. The left front turn signal does not flash with the 4 way flashers and the parking lamps don't flash when using the key fob to lock the Explorer.

I did see a code with my iphone Forscan that says they are not working, but doesn't give a clue as to why other than a generic message. I have the more detailed Forscan on my laptop and will try that to see if there is anything more.

All this stuff seems to work via the body computer, so I'm hoping I'm not hosed here. The rear lights seem to both be fine. The front bulbs are both fine, they just won't light.
 




dco43054

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So I pulled the codes using Forscan. I have both B132B and B132C, which are right and left stop and turn signal malfunctions in the Body Control Module. I reset the BCM using Forscan and no improvement in the situation.

I searched to see if anyone had input on changing BCMs. I can't find any. It seems to be integrated into the inside fuse panel.

Any thoughts on replacing the BCM? It seems to require programming via the shop system.
 




peterk9

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The DRL should be on the low beams at a reduced brightness. The LED Signature lights are a different thing and are not bright enough to be DRL.
Sorry, I can't help with the BCM question and I since this hasn't come up before, I can see why there likely aren't any posts on it. Good luck.

Peter
 




dco43054

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I fixed it. Fixed it good. I traded the 16 on a 20. Got a good deal on a year end model and my dealer/friend had almost the exact same vehicle on the lot. In less time than it would have taken to trace down what was diagnosed (by a different dealership) as being a likely wiring harness fault, I had a new Explorer with 0 miles on the odometer. :cool:

And yes, I did disclose the issue when I traded it in.

For anyone looking, the inside/under dash fuse panel on a '16 is also known as a "Smart Fuse Block" or the "Body Control Module". Rather than having those pesky, and simple to diagnose, turn signal flasher relays, it is solid state. That clicking noise you hear is just a clicker, not an actual turn signal flasher.

Oh well, the new one is nice and has and has the Apple Carplay upgrade vs. the '16. It also has a nicer rear cargo area imho. The rear seats just fold forward, rather than being the flippy foldy things on the 16. There is a large plastic tray and two smaller side trays that cover the spare tire area. A few drawbacks to the arrangement, like losing the side trays, but I'll take it.

the other major upgrade is the inside fuseblock is accessed via a cover on the front of the dash, rather than needing to be a contortionist and climbing underneath. I REALLY like that.
 




peterk9

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Good to hear you don't have the issue anymore but I don't believe it has 0 miles on the odometer, unless they replaced the display. ;)

Peter
 




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