Lifeguard's cut and turn project | Ford Explorer Forums - Serious Explorations

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Lifeguard's cut and turn project

Well i have had my old ttb taking up space for a long time now, so i decided to do something with them.

my best friend bought my dads old 93 explorer a few months ago, so we are going to put them in his explorer if we get this all right.

so far we have the driver side beam cut and ready to be plated.

hear are some pics so far.



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and more.
and yes i know i spelled front wrong lol



Isnt where you are making your cuts going to put the U-joints in a bind and lead to future breaks?

Most cut and turns are made before the Pumpkin. Also the spring is before your cut. How will you get lift out of this set up?

hmmm well I wouldnt say most cut and turns are made before the pumkin, thats just one way of doing it

Beams are typically extended directly after the radius arms and cut and turned here as well, the point is to re-position the ball joints to allow you to run lift in the spring, no lift in the beam pivot (no or minimal drop bracket) and still have proper alignment (camber correction is what lifeguard is doing here)

Another option when cutting a turning like this is to extend the beam 4-4.5" also and run dana 44 axle stub shafts without needing to extend or buy custom shafts.

If you look at Giant motorsposrts, Camburg, or Autofab, etc their 4x4 beams are built this way, with the cut and turn aft the radius arm, simply re-locating ball joints so your beams can be at an angle at ride height but the camber is still aligned, no weak axle pivot drop brackets needed, the u joints at the knuckle are simply for steering, adjusting the ball joints here will not effect that U joint too much, they can take this correction

this is why many 4x4 ttb trucks look like they are already at full droop when they are sitting at ride height, the ball joint correction to allow this to happen.......if you do it perfect you will have 5-6" of coil lift, no axle pivot drop brackets, and your stock camber shims will be set at 0 correction :)

yes, we set the stock camber shims at zero. That way we will have more room for alignment.

hopefully tomorrow i can start cutting the fill in plats. the round cuts will be cut at my Buddy's work.


fill in wedges cut and welded in :D




you are going to plate those??

yes. i have 1/4 plate, that is what the blue tape on the axle is for. used it for the template.

welds are cleaned up now.

It would have been easier and stronger if you plated from the underside then you wouldn't have to grind down all that weld. I know it's just a fill plate but that's a lot of work to make that little wedge piece just fit.

i plan on plating them all the way around, and i just kinda want it to look cool. i figured the more steel i add, the stronger it will be. the steel was free, so I'm even going to try make a skid plate for the pumpkin as well.


Hurry up and get my S#!t done I'm tired of waiting.

well we got it in the truck for a test fit, and sadly :(

it did what i wanted it to do :)

now all we net to do is make Ra's and plate the beams :):burnout: hear are some pics.




I got some springs for free. The stock springs messured 13" and the new springs messured 18.5". I was wondering if the would give me the 5.5" of lift? Both set of springs weren't on the exploer. The set I got for free is an unknown brand.

Skyjscker 6" lift coils are 19" long unsprung

Looks like you need to move yourcoil buckets out a few inches :)

Looks good so far, nice idea fitting them before plating! saves work! We built two sets of beams before we got it right :)

nice, so did the reworking of the beam still allow stock shafts usage?

I have something else to add about what KrisG is saying because my beams literally relocate the lower balljoint out so the balljoints stay directly above and below the ujoint.

I love the design, fabwork and hope it works out. I'm a little confuse as to why the coil is bowed as well. Those springs might be too soft. You got your old TTB springs still?

i think the coil's are bowed cuz they weren't bolted in, we just had them siting on the beam. so when the top nut is on it will pull them in a bit.

and all the stock shafts work great!:D

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I've seen some pretty radical Toyotas where the front springs are bowed pretty badly...