lift help/ question

[Maniak]

That is an axle pivot bolt. From the factory it is not welded. I could see someone welding the nut to the bracket so they would only need 1 wrench to pull the bolt.

I cannot think of any reason why the bolt would be welded as that would be a very stupid thing to do.

~Mark

 

[dpeebs]

this is the actual bolt thats welded on.

 

[dpeebs]

sorry for the bad picture i used my phone

 

[F150hybred]

Yup, that's an axle pivot bolt. Don't know why someone would weld it other than maybe it was loose at some time and wore the hole out. Got an idea here, I'm in WPG every so often... if you want, I have a 6" in mine with 35's if you wanna compare and see if you're really sagged out. Let me know.

 

[dpeebs]

ya i dont know why it was welded on either, my mechaanic friend says probably they got the axel somewhat straight then welded it so it would stay. and im not from winnipeg. i like in portage

 

[F150hybred]

Well that sucks. I don't get out to Portage much anymore.

 

[4x4junkie]

http://i1338.photobucket.com/albums/o684/dpeebs/IMG00341-20121204-1634.jpg
this is the actual bolt thats welded on.

That bolt doesn't have anything to do with the alignment (unless you had a Tuff Country lift with the cam bolts, however that doesn't appear to be a cam bolt).

Alignment is all done on the steering tierods (toe), and at the upper ball joints (angled bushing sleeve around the ball joint stud for camber & caster).

Are you trying to align it yourself? Or you having a shop do it?

You did look through the link I posted earlier correct? (specifically this page contained within it)?
I see your steering link well above where the pivot bolt is so it certainly does look like you have some geometry issues to sort out first.

 

[ranger-93]

That bolt doesn't have anything to do with the alignment (unless you had a Tuff Country lift with the cam bolts, however that doesn't appear to be a cam bolt).

Alignment is all done on the steering tierods (toe), and at the upper ball joints (angled bushing sleeve around the ball joint stud for camber & caster).

Are you trying to align it yourself? Or you having a shop do it?

You did look through the link I posted earlier correct? (specifically this page contained within it)?
I see your steering link well above where the pivot bolt is so it certainly does look like you have some geometry issues to sort out first.

You are correct as to where the adjustments are made, but to my knowledge the axle pivot bolt is a part of the alignment system. It's mainly for the caster though. When the pivot postion is changed (top or bottom hole) it allows for more or less caster. It all depends on what you need for alignment and what degree sleeves you have. Depending on the needs of any given situation new sleeves may work vs. changing the pivot bolt position.

 

[dpeebs]

i know i need to do something with my front end, i have no money to do it or the fabrication skills either. and for alignment i would get aa shop to do it

 

[4x4junkie]

You are correct as to where the adjustments are made, but to my knowledge the axle pivot bolt is a part of the alignment system. It's mainly for the caster though. When the pivot postion is changed (top or bottom hole) it allows for more or less caster. It all depends on what you need for alignment and what degree sleeves you have. Depending on the needs of any given situation new sleeves may work vs. changing the pivot bolt position.

I guess if one has two-hole axle brackets (not stock) or the Tuff Country cam-bolt brackets that I already mentioned (again, not stock), you could move that bolt around, however that's usually done only in extreme cases where the caster/camber bushings are near or beyond the limits of their range due to some issue with the ride height of the suspension.

I can't tell from dpeebs' pic if there another hole on his due to the steering link being in the way, however from what I can see, his ride height looks fine. I strongly suspect it's the steering linkage angle out of whack causing his issue. The complaints of bumpsteer and wind blowing it around excessively on the highway are certainly consistent with that.

Probably at the very least the larger FA600 drop pitman arm is needed here.

 

[dpeebs]

i dont think i need a dropped pitman arm, i have a dropped one on there and my steering linkage is all even, its not on an angle up or anything. i ordered a steering stabalizer but it hasnt come in yet also i will be changing all the bad tie rods ball joint etc after christmas and getting my frot ennd aligned and see how it is after that

 

[dpeebs]

has anybody used the superrunner steering linkage from superlift on there explorers? would it help my steering out on mine? or will i have to get something fabricated
Dead Link Removed
heres a link

 

[Maniak]

It works for some people.. But its really not the "correct" setup for a high travel front suspension but for most people it is a less bad solution.

Personally, until you get too much lift a dropped pitman arm works well and most lift kits don't really give you that much "travel".

~Mark

 

[dpeebs]

well i use my truck alot on the high way and i need to get it to handle a little better. and oi dont rock crawl just mudding on weekends. and some bush trails, also my left side has worn very bad from my front end coming out of aligment since last year. and i want to get it all figured out before i buy new tires

 

[Maniak]

When we were running the Duff 3.5" spring with f-150 spacers for the front lift we had no bumper steer at all. This was with the Duff RA drop brackets AND still no bump steer when we went to the Extended RA's and even with the Cut/Turned beams. We started to get "some" bump steer with the new 5.5" springs.

Even with the little bit of bump steer we have now I have no issues driving the 60mph-65mph down the freeway. I've driven at higher speeds but it kills what little gas mileage we have but it is still easy to drive at 75mph.

We have to drive on about 10 miles of 2 lane, bumpy/hilly and with turns to get to the freeway and it is easy to drive. That is the only place we feel "any" bump steer and again that didn't start until we went to the 5.5" front springs.

To put things in perspective. My mother in law used to borrow the explorer when we were running the Duff 3.5" with spacers (about 4.5" lift) WITH drop brackets (pre-extended radius arms). On top of that the X hasn't had any sway bars in over a decade. She had no problems driving it on the freeway or on the 2 lane bumpy (read old and partially repaved) with no problems. She was in her late 60's when we was borrowing it (since retired and doesn't drive anymore).

I just made sure to keep the tie rods, ball joints, and bushings (still had rubber RA bushings) in good shape. I also use balancing beads on keep the tires balanced. That way we don't have to worry about bouncing tires if we throw a wheel weight. In addition to keeping the suspension in good shape I made sure the steering box slop was minimal. That means in the box itself and the rag joint (between the steering box and the steering column).

~Mark

 

[4x4junkie]

has anybody used the superrunner steering linkage from superlift on there explorers? would it help my steering out on mine? or will i have to get something fabricated
Dead Link Removed
heres a link

I have the Superrunner setup (A.K.A. "K-link") on mine.
Like Maniak mentions, it isn't "correct" out of the box, you actually have to modify it by dropping it's centerlink down a couple inches (requires welding) before it works properly (don't ask me why Superlift doesn't fix this, I haven't a clue). After having modified it so, it works FAR better than a simple drop pitman arm ever will (even the SJ #FA600 arm).
A few have also built their own K-link setups from scratch, improving on it over Superlift's design, which is another option.


And FWIW, I don't buy it one bit that your linkage is close to even when I see it in your pic it's way above your axle pivot, together with the issues you're describing. You may want to go out there and look at it again.

 

[killer.jensen]

I'd say go for the BL and keep the bigger/wider tires. They really help in the mud over narrower tires.

Bigger, yes it helps in mud. Wider, I think not (I know not). Nothing like a pizza cutter tire for getting through mud.