Liftgate Issue After Keypad Came Off | Page 2 | Ford Explorer Forums - Serious Explorations

  • Register Today It's free!

Liftgate Issue After Keypad Came Off

I am having the same issue as the others. Two weeks ago the door panel key pad came detached and was just hanging when I got home. My husband duct taped it temporarily seeing that it was just double sided tape, he was going to fix it himself. I was out of town for work this last week with my car and on my drive the same issue happened as mentioned above where the lift gate open light came on and now it won’t open. Sounds like a trip to the dealership is in order.
 



Join the Elite Explorers for $20 each year.
Elite Explorer members see no advertisements, no banner ads, no double underlined links,.
Add an avatar, upload photo attachments, and more!
.





Welcome to the Forum Virginia.:wave:
It could be a fuse as some have reported. If you get it fixed by the dealership, PLEASE report back as to what was done, A few here mentioned doing the same but never bothered reporting back. That is very frustrating for those looking for possible fixes. Thanks.

Peter
 






I have a 2016 XLT. Keypad was blinking intermittently and I had to have the battery replaced. I pulled the #10 fuse, which disabled the keypad as well as the lift gate (can’t open it at all - no manual latch). Now my interior lights won’t shut off when I turn the engine off. I’ve tried using the fob to lock the doors, manually locked the doors, even drove it, as the interior lights eventually turn off. I’ve already accepted I have to replace the keypad, but until I can get that done, any advice so I don’t kill another battery?

Many thanks!
 






Have you waited 10 minutes after turning the engine off to see if the lights will turn off? That is when the battery saver program kicks in. It's not a fix, just an interim solution. I believe there is an 'emergency' release on the inside of the liftgate under a small panel, should you need it.

Peter
 






Thanks Peter! The lights shut off after 10 minutes - a huge relief! I’ll be scheduling service to have the keypad replaced (I’ve had the same issue several others have experienced with the door keypad) and will follow up to let you all know if that solves the flashing keypad lights problem.
Thanks for the time you spend helping us all out!
 






So, same thing happened to me. My keyless pad fell off while I was on high way. I pulled over and try to press it back but fell off again after 2 mins driving. This time the tail gate light on also. I went to gas station and got tape for the keyless entry pad. But I’m not able to open the tail gate anymore. Also noticed the internal lights are on even engine is off. So much frustration!!! I’m going to be on vocation for two weeks from tomorrow and this just happened today. I have to drive my wife’s car now since I can’t open the tail gate for luggage. Also, the factory warranty just expired about 4 months ago( I have extended warranty). It sucks!!!
 






The interior lights should turn OFF after 10 minutes when the Battery Saver feature kicks in.

Peter
 






The interior lights should turn OFF after 10 minutes when the Battery Saver feature kicks in.

Peter

Thanks, it did turn off after 10 mins. Does anyone know if the keyless entry pad covered by extended warranty? I just read the flex forum that the pad is considered by trim and doesn't cover by extended warranty.
 






Trim isn't covered under the ESP. Wiring harnesses are. Depending on what causes this issue with the liftgate, maybe it could be argued it is caused by damage to the harness when it was blown off on the highway. :dunno:

Peter
 






Trim isn't covered under the ESP. Wiring harnesses are. Depending on what causes this issue with the liftgate, maybe it could be argued it is caused by damage to the harness when it was blown off on the highway. :dunno:

Peter

So if it's caused by the keyless entry pad, then the tailgate is not covered also? I have an appointment in two weeks, now I have a bad feeling that I will have to pay for all of this. :(
 






The liftgate issue was a direct result of the Securicode trim panel coming off. I'm not sure what the relationship is between the two but it is a common occurrence that is mentioned in other posts.

Peter
 






Hi folks,

I came across this thread after a google search and wanted to drop in my 2c. Slightly off topic as it doesn't exactly relate to a fix for the liftgate issue but there's some relation to the cause.

My liftgate issue is the same as everyone here, nothing I can do will open that door. I'm constantly lugging stuff around for my job so this has been very frustrating but I'm going to take it to a dealer next week. The securecode panel detached from the upper portion of the door and was flapping in the wind and eventually was hanging down as I pulled into the closest Ford dealer at the time it occurred. Unfortunately it was about 4PM on a Sunday and I knew the service center wasn't open so it was more of a stop to ask them if they had seen much of this before. We stuck scotch tape on it to keep the panel on the car so I could get home without it causing further damage.

I found it interesting that quite a few people have the same problem with that panel coming off. As far as I'm concerned a panel like that on a 3 year old car that cost ~$50K should not be just falling off. The sales guy at Ford agreed with me and took a look at the panel, he said there's a small notch on there that is incredibly hard to remove and really it can't just fall off. He thinks someone tried to break into the car and forced the panel out with a screwdriver to try and manipulate the door/code.

I walked around to the other side of the car and sure enough, the panel on the other side had a slight bend in it like somebody tried to lever it off with a flathead screwdriver. So in my case it would be assumed that someone tried to break in which is why the panel is off. Have any of you checked the other door to see if it has any kind of damage also? I've attached a photo of the broken driver side door and the passenger side where someone appears to have tried to force it out. Based on comments it appears the secure panel and liftgate are affected by the same fuse.

I'm not going to mess around with fuses or anything but I'll be taking my car to the dealer next week so I'll report back what they say. I'm a little concerned about that panel not being covered by warranty as I paid an extra $2.5K for the extended warranty. Then again, someone breaking in wouldn't qualify it for warranty service anyway so I guess that's on me.

Check your other door to make sure it wasn't a break in attempt. Consider where you park your Explorer and don't leave valuables in your car.

James.

IMG_2992.jpg


IMG_2993.jpg
 






^^Welcome to the Forum. :wave:
If the inability to open the liftgate happened after the Securicode incident then that might be the cause. Otherwise there is another issue. Judging by what you paid for the ESP, it seems that you didn't get it through Joel. Ford ESP at dealer cost to forum members Maybe next time.

Peter
 






Hey all. I just wanted to update everyone regarding the keyless entry pad/liftgate issue. I have confirmed what happens when the keyless pad comes loose(it has now happened to me) and how it affects the liftgate. Thanks to everyone and their prior posts, apparently when the pad comes loose(mine did not fall off however, it did do damage to a few of the wires) the wires that are exposed do cause the fuse to blow for the liftgate/securicode panel as well. I did like one of the prior post said after I installed a new panel, and turned the fuse around. Yes, it is a pain in the a@#$! to get to, but I was successful and it remedied the problem. One suggestion I have for everyone since that damn panel is expensive, is when you attach the new one, use extra of the heavy duty 3M tape. Hopefully mine will last another five years like the first one.
 






Welcome to the Forum Jodie. :wave:
Good to know that you were able to get fixed.

Peter
 






Yesterday while driving on the freeway the side door panel where the touch key number pad is located pulled away from the door. We taped it back against the door with duct tape and it held. However now the liftgate will not open. Cannot be opened by pushing the button on the dash, or pushing the button on the outside of the liftgate. will not open using button on Fob. We took out the little silver key from the Fob and looked for a key hole on the outside of the liftgate in hopes of unlocking it that way, but can't find one. I guess the door panel section that tore away has the wiring that also controls the liftgate. We are able to unlock the car and get in using the Fob, but cannot open the liftgate. It seems to be permanently locked.

Is there any other way to open the liftgate manually? Thank you so much for your help.
So this exact same thing happened to me today. I refuse to go back to Ford because like so many others said, my warranty ended a couple months ago. The fact that this panel is held on by double sided tape is beyond me. My question is has anyone replaced the keypad door panel with a door panel that doesn’t have the keypad? I never use this function anyway and the price difference for the two is huge. Just want to know if putting a normal door panel and a new fuse for the one that blew will help my lift gate function again. I can’t get it open and also the lights inside the car will not turn off because it is saying the lift gate is ajar. Any suggestions would help.
 






Welcome to the Forum. :wave:
Usually there are 2 fuses for the interior lights. One for the 'Demand' lights' and one for 'Courtesy' lights which is for the ones that come ON when a door is opened. In your Manual I don't see a fuse for the latter which I believe is what is causing the lights to stay ON.
I don't believe I've read a post where a member replaced the moulding with the Securipad with one that didn't have that feature. You could always give it a try. I think that you would have to tape off each end of any wiring connected to the pad when removed. You could try that first and then replace the fuse for the liftgate if it is blown and see if everything returns to normal. If it does, then you could get the regular moulding/applique.
Please report back once done. Thanks.

Peter
 






Welcome to the Forum. :wave:
Usually there are 2 fuses for the interior lights. One for the 'Demand' lights' and one for 'Courtesy' lights which is for the ones that come ON when a door is opened. In your Manual I don't see a fuse for the latter which I believe is what is causing the lights to stay ON.
I don't believe I've read a post where a member replaced the moulding with the Securipad with one that didn't have that feature. You could always give it a try. I think that you would have to tape off each end of any wiring connected to the pad when removed. You could try that first and then replace the fuse for the liftgate if it is blown and see if everything returns to normal. If it does, then you could get the regular moulding/applique.
Please report back once done. Thanks.

Peter
So I went and bought a fuse this morning from auto zone and replaced it (the one under the steering column in slot #10 with a 5A2 fuse). Now the lift gate ajar notification is gone from the dash and the lift gate is working perfectly. Unfortunately my door securipanel cracked in half when it was flapping yesterday so I will have to replace that otherwise everything would be fixed with just the fuse replacement and it was only $5 from autozone. I will give an update once I purchase the panel for the door. Thanks for your responses.
 






Cant Unlock Hatchback, Keypad Related

My Drivers door applique/ keypad blew off while driving on the Interstate. It was dangeling in the wind when within 1 mile I got a Liftgate ajar warning. I have heard of these 2 being assocoated together, but no solutions. The car does have the keypad entry. I can not open the liftgate from outside, nor does the unlock feature help when using the keyfob. No other doors affected. I disconected the battery for a couple of days with no luck. How can I remedy this problem w/o going to the Stealer. I can get a new applique from Motorcraft, but wiring is not included, where can I get wiring also?. One of the wires in the keypad wiring looks a little chaffed on the insulation (I can see a very slight bit of bare wire). Perhaps there is a short from this bare wire that is causing this issue with the Liftgate. I do plan on replacing the applique and more than likely will need to replace the wiring harness that attatches to the keypad, but am unable to find a p/n for the harness. Can anyone provide a simple fix for this so my Liftgate works until I can get the parts needed to fix it .
Thanks
Ilya
 



Join the Elite Explorers for $20 each year.
Elite Explorer members see no advertisements, no banner ads, no double underlined links,.
Add an avatar, upload photo attachments, and more!
.





Welcome to the Forum Ilya. :wave:
Your thread was merged with this one. Check out the last few posts and you may have your answer to the fix. If the wiring is chaffed, you can likely just put some electrical tape around that exposed part and replace the fuse, assuming it has blown.
Let us know how it goes. Thanks.

Peter
 






Back
Top