Lincoln Aviator - Installing aftermarket subwoofer & amplifier.

[fourings]

Background:
Hey guys, after a long time in the Audi world (this will be relevant in a moment) I decided a few months ago to pick up a Lincoln Aviator (2003). I've spent a few days reading forums and decided to at least begin installing an aftermarket 1800w kenwood amplifier and two 12" Alpine Type-R subwoofers (my final goal here), despite having mixed feedback on the best install method. The Aviator I picked up has the standard 6-disc cd changer up front (not navi system) and the DVD entertainment center in the middle row. I wish to retain steering wheel controls and full functionality with the rear dvd system between the head unit. From reading the forums, it seems leaving the stock head unit is nearly the only option that meets both of these requirements (please correct / inform me if my research has steered me wrong here).

Having come to the above conclusion, I slowly moved forward with installation. I have the amplifier power cable routed from the 3rd row/trunk area up through the firewall via the grommet hole the hood latch goes through and up to the battery. That part is finished and looks great. I also have a solid ground in place for the kenwood.

The area I am having trouble with is in terms of RCA's and remote (p-con) wire connecting the amplifier to the head unit. I have heard a few different opinions speaking with a few different installers (including Best Buy mobile audio and Audio Express mobile experts) and from reading the forums. The common "fall-back" response is to run an LOC (line-out converter) to the rear speakers for RCA connections (of which I have purchased previously in the past and have available on hand). However, I seem to get this response from generic installers that aren't overly familiar with the Aviator system in itself. If this is the easiest / highest quality producing method I will happily move forward in this direction. However, many people have mentioned another method for installation and this method is the same I had used with my Twin Turbo A6 that used bose factory speakers and inline bose subwoofer and amplifier (and it produced GREAT sound). I had found a walk through on the Audi forums directing people to buy RCA cables and cut one end of the cables off. The terminated end plugged directly into the aftermarket amplifier and the other end was hard wired directly into the wiring harness directly BEFORE the stock amplifier and subwoofer (as well as the p-con remote control wire). I was told that the LOC was not necessary in this instance because the line level was already low enough at this point as it was on a low level to power the stock amplifier. This method worked fantastic with the Audi and something inside me says this is the best way to go. I took the stock amplifier out to see how it is wired and there are 5 wires leading into the amp. A thick solid yellow cable and two side by side smaller gauge cables (I believe they were...orange/black and blue/red for one pair and orange/black and...another color for the other wire). Then there are four wires leading out of the amplifier and into the factory subwoofer.

My main few questions here are as follows:
1) Would I be able to tap directly into the wiring directly before the the aviator's stock amplifier/subwoofer without use of the LOC?
2) If the answer to the first question is yes, would audio quality be higher with the LOC run off the rear speakers or no LOC run off the harness in line before the existing factory amp/sub.
3) Which of the two options is easier/cleaner to install (if the first question is possible)
4) If I can splice the aftermarket amp inline before the factory amp without the LOC, which cables do I splice into?
4) What cable should I splice the p-con (remote turn on cable) into?

I found this online for quick reference if it helps:
2003 Lincoln Aviator Car Stereo Wiring Diagram
Car Radio Battery Constant 12v+ Wire: White/Yellow
Car Radio Accessory Switched 12v+ Wire: Black/Pink
Car Radio Ground Wire: Black/Orange
Car Radio Illumination Wire: Red/Black
Car Stereo Dimmer Wire: N/A
Car Stereo Antenna Trigger Wire: N/A
Car Stereo Amp Trigger Wire: N/A
Car Stereo Amplifier Location: N/A
Car Audio Front Speakers Size: N/A
Car Audio Front Speakers Location: N/A
Left Front Speaker Positive Wire (+): Orange/Light Green
Left Front Speaker Negative Wire (-): Light Blue/White
Right Front Speaker Positive Wire (+): White/Light Green
Right Front Speaker Negative Wire (-): Dark Green/Orange
Car Audio Rear Speakers Size: N/A
Car Audio Rear Speakers Location: N/A
Left Rear Speaker Positive Wire (+): Gray/Light Blue
Left Rear Speaker Negative Wire (-): Tan/Yellow
Right Rear Speaker Positive Wire (+): Orange/Red
Right Rear Speaker Negative Wire (-): Brown/Pink

 

[BrooklynBay]

Welcome to this forum! I've moved your thread into the audio & navigation section.

 

[fourings]

My apologies for the forum miss-post. Thank you kindly for the welcome.

Any help on this subject is greatly appreciated

 

[97EDB]

http://www.sonicelectronix.com/item_16883_Stinger-SGN11.html


splice to the rears before the amplifer

 

[jrford]

Maybe i can shed some insight?
The Amp for the Speakers is in the Radio. The radio will output a base signal to the silver box next to the Sub, it only the sub amp. Radio side its- L/R/Shield (radio side only)/Sig. Sub side you get L/R/Sig/Pwr/Gnd. What i found is if the Stock Sub amp is not plugged in you won't get any sound out of the radio. So i did a Speaker level line in to a Pioneer amp; this amp had speaker detect turn on so i drop the sig wire. The Signal (Sig) is 6V only thing is to get a 6V-12V converter if you want to use the Sig wire to turn on the aftermarket amp.

Option B-there are modules which will enable you to use the Steering wheel controls and rear DVD, add a bit to the deal. I went stock radio to avoid that cost.

couple of post if you missed that might answer some of your questions?? hopefully.
http://www.explorerforum.com/forums/showthread.php?t=246610
http://www.explorerforum.com/forums/showthread.php?t=204211

 

[fourings]

Radio side its- L/R/Shield (radio side only)/Sig. Sub side you get L/R/Sig/Pwr/Gnd. So i did a Speaker level line in to a Pioneer amp; this amp had speaker detect turn on so i drop the sig wire. The Signal (Sig) is 6V only thing is to get a 6V-12V converter if you want to use the Sig wire to turn on the aftermarket amp.

I understand everything you said except for this part^ Lol. I'm going to avoid option B for now

Amp for speakers is in the head unit, and the aviator has a small amp used solely to power the factory sub. Check, I knew this much. I do not plan to remove or alter the existing factory amp/sub. I have them pulled out (but still connected) at the moment in case I can tap directly into the wires leading into the factory amp. (Which is what I believe 97EDB is directing me to do.)

I am going to pull the head unit out and splice the LOC into the right rear and left rear speakers up behind the dash. I can just use the black/pink accessory wire for the remote turn on, yes?

 

[jrford]

sorry for the confusion, . .
On the black/pink if the radio is off it will still be hot. I doubt that's what you want.

I tried this too: can tap directly into the wires leading into the factory amp. FAILED as the radio will not put out any bass signals without the amp. Discovered during testing. This raises a question, if the sub-amp is not plugged in will it redirect the sub 150hz to the doors rather than cut them out. Little foggy, but i thought not.

Note if you have a sub the F/R speaker have the Low pass set to about 150hz. . .thus no bass sounds.

 

[fourings]

So tapping into the rear speaker wires will not work either it seems. I feel like im running in circles. I tried it spliced into the rear speakers and there was relatively no base whatsoever.


I am leaving the factory sub and amp in place for sure, that's no concern. Where do I install the loc? Everyone with best buy told me to install the line out converter on the rear speakers but that seems to be wrong. Do I have to install it between the head unit and the factory amp?

Im sorry to be so confused but I would love a clear answer on what color wires to tap into and where.

Do I install the line out converter in line between the head unit and factory amp with the factory amp in place?

 

[jrford]

So tapping into the rear speaker wires will not work either it seems. I feel like im running in circles. I tried it spliced into the rear speakers and there was relatively no base whatsoever.

You shouldnt, with the Audiophile any signal below ~150hz is cut out from the doors, think low pass filter built-into the radio.

Where do I install the loc?

Whats the Part number for it? I think i know what you have, just want to be 100%

Do I install the line out converter in line between the head unit and factory amp with the factory amp in place?

I don't think you even need it, with the Audiophile and factory sub. You would use the signal out of the sub amp (next to the sub speaker).

 

[jesus.m.]

does anyone know how to get the rear dvd system to work on a 05 aviator with an aftermarket stereo? It turns on for a few seconds and then shuts off

 

[jrford]

PIE makes something. . .
http://www.crutchfield.com/p_469FRD...6&kw=&org=pla&nw=g&crv=6649879105#details-tab

Plan B - one guy left is original radio plugged in under a seat for the free option. It just got Batt/Acc Grnd, and the two CAN bus wires; used headphones.