iteotwawki
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- '92 XLT 4X4
Thanks Roadrunner777 for the info.
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Long Block for my 92 XLT
- Thread starter iteotwawki
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- a4dl long block m5od
Thanks Roadrunner777 for the info.
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In this set of bearings you will see one set is different, the different set is for controlling thrust from when you put your foot on the clutch. You're pushing the crankshaft forward with a manual transmission. In the automatic transmission models some brilliant person decided to save Ford some money on their motors by using half of that bearing along with the other half of the regular bearings there because there is no clutch pushing against the crankshaft. I found this on two 1991 model year motors. So when a person converts to manual transmission or puts a motor from an automatic transmission into a manual transmission be careful and check this out.
iteotwawki
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In this set of bearings you will see one set is different, the different set is for controlling thrust from when you put your foot on the clutch. You're pushing the crankshaft forward with a manual transmission. In the automatic transmission models some brilliant person decided to save Ford some money on their motors by using half of that bearing along with the other half of the regular bearings there because there is no clutch pushing against the crankshaft. I found this on two 1991 model year motors. So when a person converts to manual transmission or puts a motor from an automatic transmission into a manual transmission be careful and check this out.
WOW. Thanks for the info.
iteotwawki
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The postmortem...
I just completed wrenching on the truck. The bolts in tightening sequence 5,6,7,8 were half as tight as they needed to be and the nut on tightening sequence 3 was less than that.
Thanks for the tips everyone. Saved me a pant load! I'm going to change the oil now so I'll update the post later to see if this has solved my problem.
Later~
I just completed wrenching on the truck. The bolts in tightening sequence 5,6,7,8 were half as tight as they needed to be and the nut on tightening sequence 3 was less than that.
Thanks for the tips everyone. Saved me a pant load! I'm going to change the oil now so I'll update the post later to see if this has solved my problem.
Later~
iteotwawki
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It never fails
Still detect a slight ping when driving home the other day. I'm going to put in new plugs and go from there.
On another note, I decided to flush the radatior today. New hoses, thermostat, etc. and when I started to reassemble the thermostat housing, I noticed the bolts were not grabbing. Yep, two of the three holes were stripped and I didn't do it.
Sigh!
Still detect a slight ping when driving home the other day. I'm going to put in new plugs and go from there.
On another note, I decided to flush the radatior today. New hoses, thermostat, etc. and when I started to reassemble the thermostat housing, I noticed the bolts were not grabbing. Yep, two of the three holes were stripped and I didn't do it.
Sigh!
wood1
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Give it a bit and see if your oil consumption issue has been dealt with. There is likely a bit of carbon on piston #5 (you could check the compression). I would also check to make sure your plug wires are not cross firing and need replacement. Spray a water and salt mixture over the wires (at night in the dark) and if you need plug wires it will be obvious. You should clean the mass airflow meter occasionally and I would do it now.
EDIT:
Slight ping? So has it improved?
EDIT:
Slight ping? So has it improved?
iteotwawki
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I would say yes. The ping is slight. and I agree, I just pulled the plug and the carbon buildup was stagering.
When I have the funds, I am going to put in all new plugs and Motorcraft plug wires.
Thanks for your help.
iteotwawki
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On another note, I decided to flush the radatior today. New hoses, thermostat, etc. and when I started to reassemble the thermostat housing, I noticed the bolts were not grabbing. Yep, two of the three holes were stripped and I didn't do it.
Sigh!
I am blessed. I went to the parts store today and bought longer bolts and was able to get them to grab and tighten.
wood1
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Glad to help out. You might try a Seafoaming through the vacuum line to help remove the carbon if that is the problem. Couldn't hurt either way...
iteotwawki
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The Prolog
It's been 3000 miles since I initiated the repair and I am happy to say that according to the dipstick, my truck has only used a 1/2 quart of oil since the last oil change.
Prior to tightening down the lower intake bolts, I was adding 1 quart every 500 miles. An extreme case to be sure. Thanks everyone for all your input.
It's been 3000 miles since I initiated the repair and I am happy to say that according to the dipstick, my truck has only used a 1/2 quart of oil since the last oil change.
Prior to tightening down the lower intake bolts, I was adding 1 quart every 500 miles. An extreme case to be sure. Thanks everyone for all your input.
jd4242
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In this set of bearings you will see one set is different, the different set is for controlling thrust from when you put your foot on the clutch. You're pushing the crankshaft forward with a manual transmission. In the automatic transmission models some brilliant person decided to save Ford some money on their motors by using half of that bearing along with the other half of the regular bearings there because there is no clutch pushing against the crankshaft. I found this on two 1991 model year motors. So when a person converts to manual transmission or puts a motor from an automatic transmission into a manual transmission be careful and check this out.
that is just one set of bearings,four per motor.the one that is different is used in the middle and alines the crank,it has material on the sides because the crank rides along the side of the bearing to keep alined.every motor has this.the manual trans model may have a harder material or more than one like this.the difference in a manual trans long block is also the crank,the front crank key design,the cam and i believe it has an extra bolt hole on each side near the motor mounts
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