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Performance Upgrades - Maintenance - Modifications - Problem Solving - Off-Road - Street Trucks. Covering the Explorer, ST, Sport, Lincoln Aviator, Sport Trac, Mercury Mountaineer, Mazda Navajo, Ford Ranger, Mazda Pickups, and the Aerostar. Featuring H.I. - Human Intelligence.
Hey guys, got a problem here. My 2005 Sport Trac seems to struggle starting and when it does it can putter out if I don’t put some throttle in it. The problem seems exasperated by cold weather. I replaced the fuel pump thinking it was the check valve and it’s still doing it. Please help.
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If this has the fuel rail pressure sensor that is hidden under the intake manifold. I just went through this mine went out i replaced it and in less than 150 miles was replacing it again. Spend the money and get a oem bosch sensor. Now as well 91 said do you have any lights on that you can scan? or read live data with? the are a number of things it could be. we also could use more info(unless i missed it) Year motor trans miles 2-4-awd ect ect all that just as a example. Never know what info may make someone go oh hey go giggle this and bang your off haha
If this has the fuel rail pressure sensor that is hidden under the intake manifold. I just went through this mine went out i replaced it and in less than 150 miles was replacing it again. Spend the money and get a oem bosch sensor. Now as well 91 said do you have any lights on that you can scan? or read live data with? the are a number of things it could be. we also could use more info(unless i missed it) Year motor trans miles 2-4-awd ect ect all that just as a example. Never know what info may make someone go oh hey go giggle this and bang your off haha
Good points. I’m pretty sure I got the oem Bosch though. I remember reading review about it. It’s a 4.0L SOHC with 182000 miles on it. Replaced the sensor probably about 10000 miles ago. Maybe I’ll get another one.
Good points. I’m pretty sure I got the oem Bosch though. I remember reading review about it. It’s a 4.0L SOHC with 182000 miles on it. Replaced the sensor probably about 10000 miles ago. Maybe I’ll get another one.
If you did get a bosch part id like to think its okay, from what i read they last roughly 100k before giving issue normally. Anymore though you never know. Can you make the truck run after giving it some gas? like will it idle afterwards or does it die if you take your foot off the gas after getting it running?
If you did get a bosch part id like to think its okay, from what i read they last roughly 100k before giving issue normally. Anymore though you never know. Can you make the truck run after giving it some gas? like will it idle afterwards or does it die if you take your foot off the gas after getting it running?
Oh also try this. Crank like your going to start it as normal, 10 seconds or whatever, wait 1.2. try again and then again no more than 3-4 times see if it starts, do not hit gas, or even just try re priming the fuel pump 3-4 times without cranking then try to crank and see what happens. Let us know.
Oh also try this. Crank like your going to start it as normal, 10 seconds or whatever, wait 1.2. try again and then again no more than 3-4 times see if it starts, do not hit gas, or even just try re priming the fuel pump 3-4 times without cranking then try to crank and see what happens. Let us know.
Oh it’ll always start. Sorry, there may have been a miscommunication. It will start after cranking for four seconds or so, which is longer than usual, but when it does start it feels like it may be misfiring or there’s not enough fuel going in. Again, no messages indicating a misfire. Then it’ll putter out sometimes. Especially if it’s really cold.
Sounds to me like a bad or dirty idle air control valve. A 2005 shouldn't be able to Peter out but yea that will throw fuel ratio way off. Computer is having a hard time adjusting at that low rpm.
Sounds to me like a bad or dirty idle air control valve. A 2005 shouldn't be able to Peter out but yea that will throw fuel ratio way off. Computer is having a hard time adjusting at that low rpm.
The ecm will not let the engine shut off under any circumstances it's actually a huge safety deal with dot if they released a car that does Peter out even possiblely everyone gets notified u lose power steering and brakes.
Unless u got a dirty
....can clean carbon deposits from idle air control valve on the manifold... Its basically a second mini throttle body just for idle u can check it by removing keep wires connected plug holes and run check for actuation.... Just clean the junk carbon off the shaft with a wire brush.
I could be the iac but it wouldnt make sense that it would all the sudden work every time after giving it some gas. Does this truck till have the manual Throttle body or is it fly by wire electric Tb? Your year is a crossover year. In 06 they no longer had a iac and manual throttle body(as far as i know) Since you have the fuel pressure sensor makes me think you should have the fly by wire Tb. Did you replace the fuel filter when you did the fuel pump? It could be possible you have a slightly leaking injector very little, You shut off your truck while off its seeping ever so little fuel in whatever cylinder, when you go to crank that one cylinder is soaked in fuel, you get rough start might stumble ect and may shut off these trucks do not like to run with a cylinder off of the others at all, but all this is happening to fast for it to throw a light because it either clears up or your restarting the truck. Have you tried any fuel injector cleaner? I like seafoam, they have a fuel injector cleaner not the stuff in the metal can. You can use whatever you prefer though. Other than that i feel like you have a sensor or plug or somthing that is getting weak but not yet failed making it hard to figure out. If it was a tps a mass air sensor failed o2 or even fail fuel pressure sensor it would not run or run very bad. Being as it runs fine after the crank up is odd. I do know of a guy here that has a 04 sport track that will not start until he cranks it 3-4 times no gas no stumble just wont start till he does it 3-4 times. He didnt want to pay me to figure out was going on but i assume it may be the same idea here, he drives the truck daily and its been a year since it was here to fix his no brake light issue. Let us know if you indeed do have the older style wire tb with iac or newer fly by wire tb.
Update: I’ve replaced the iac valve. Didn’t fix it. But my transmission has been having some problems and it’s finally gotten to a point where I’m about to buy a used one. I have sea foam but don’t wanna use it until I can cycle through all the gears. Will let y’all know if I fix it after I get the transmission fixed.
Let me know what happens bud, interesting case you have here! What is the trans doing if i may ask.
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Wish I had never touched the trans. I was getting a PCM code related to the TCC. OD light would flash after hitting around 50 mph. Harsh shifts once it came on. Otherwise it drove fine. But I decided I wanted to fix it, so I ordered a new valve body with new tested solenoids from transmissionhardparts.com. When I took of the old one it was stuck on there and the gasket had melted to the case. Installed the new one, now it doesn’t go into 4th or 5th and struggles to do much else. 2-3 shift flare. Set out to fix it, made it WAY worse.
