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Long-Travel Suspension

I'm really interested in the steering setup on your rig, Paul. Could you get tons of pics of it and keep me posted on how it drives?
 



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Thanks much, Paul! Do you know if he'll make the steering setup available separately? I'm still considering a D44 TTB, would it still work between the D35 and D44?
 






I saw a post on the RDC post about someone saying that the hard part of swapping in the full size TTB was in getting the steering setup. They said the steering is where the head aches come from so you may want to check into doing some steering research to see what teh difference is.
 






I hadn't seen that post, Khris - but I'll check it out. The steering is my biggest concern - I've considered trying to figure out my own design. But if Winter's setup can be worked into a fullsize TTB, then that may be my best option.
 






That or check into a swing set steering setup. That's what the long travel I Beam trucks use and they have virtually no bump steer. If I can find a picture I'll post it. I know Dan Vance's truck that he just sold had it, (The black ranger built by baja shop with the checkered flag paint job) and Greg from Inland Prerunners has it on his white Ranger. I'll post a thread about it on RDC and see if anyone will have any pictures.
 






The steering tha Winter is making is a swing style setup. He used to work at Plank Motorsports before the unfortunate accident of Larry's plane crash. Did you ever see that yellow F-150 x-tra cab, just sick?! They designed that one and also Larrry'sPro Truck. I'll see if I can find any pictures of his ranger before he sold it.

BislamJoe, unfortunately this steering kit will not fit the fullsize beams. I'm sure he can design one to fit it, but this one is speccifically designed for the 3"per side wider Explorer beams.

I'm pretty sure, he measured Explorers and Rangers and I believe that this kit will fit on Rangers also. Don't quote me on that, but I think so.

And don't worry, I'll get a ton of pictures of Paul's setup and post them so you can see what's up.
 






Yeah, I know of Plank Motorsports. Is this the F150 you were talking about.
pr_yellow.jpg
 






that's the one. the guy's name is Dane and lives in huuntington, like seacliff village area i think. he keeps blowing motors because the suspension can go faster than the motor. Larry drove it and said it doesn't go fast enough to test the suspension I put on it.
 






Originally posted by Fenderguy
The steering tha Winter is making is a swing style setup. He used to work at Plank Motorsports before the unfortunate accident of Larry's plane crash. Did you ever see that yellow F-150 x-tra cab, just sick?! They designed that one and also Larrry'sPro Truck. I'll see if I can find any pictures of his ranger before he sold it.

BislamJoe, unfortunately this steering kit will not fit the fullsize beams. I'm sure he can design one to fit it, but this one is speccifically designed for the 3"per side wider Explorer beams.

I'm pretty sure, he measured Explorers and Rangers and I believe that this kit will fit on Rangers also. Don't quote me on that, but I think so.

And don't worry, I'll get a ton of pictures of Paul's setup and post them so you can see what's up.


Well post the project in the new project forum! :) What a great way to start that forum off.

Heck if you got pics now start putting them up to show whats happening.
 






So... I hear that the new suspension kit is going on soon? Or so I guessed, since you're selling the blower and stuff... Hmm... Picture maybe? :smoke:
 






AAARGH!!! The suspense is killing me :shoot:

No, no, I kid, I kid. I am very much anticipating this though. An old debate has revived itself in my mind. Widened D35 TTB or D44 TTB? If I did the D35, I'd swap on the D44 spindles, etc. - there have been a few threads about this. But I don't know if the D35 could handle a 300cid inline-six. And a turbo setup may be down the road on that engine too, so my front diffy's strength is a concern. I do intend to use my low range occasionally to hit the rocks, too. You guys got any ideas? (and no, you can't dissuade me from the I6)

:smoke:
 






a turbo on a low rpm I6 ? :nono: i wouldn't use a low rpm torque motor for a pre runner style vehicle but i do love the 300 I6 .............but i think the torque alone would blow up the D35 in a rough situation
 






No offense BiSlam but it's going to take me a lot of convincing to believe you weren't recently dropped on your head. I can deal with the I6 idea, different, but I can deal with it. Could turn out to be pretty cool but to turbo it? Ummmmm, good luck bro!!! DO the suspension first so that I can see what your ride looks like before it goes onto the chopping block for this motor.....
 






I'm already in the planning stages - motor and suspension pretty much at the same time. It'll work, don't worry... I just need to figure if I can build the D35 strong enough or screw that and go to a D44...

:smoke:
 






just a quick question. how are you going to fit the I6 in the short nose of the X? it fits in the f-150 like our v6 fits in the X...kinda tight. are you going to cut out the firewall? just curious
 






this was said early on, but i would like to clarify it a bit (i didnt read the rest of the post's, so i dont know if it has been corrected or not)

Technically speaking, Articultion would be having independently sprung wheels (i forget what that system is called, but it on the Honda CRV, its that style). that would mean that, if you drive on a ledge thats taller than the ground, say a few inches, all 4 wheels will hit with their full patch in contact with the ground, the body/frame stay's level and the wheels that are not on the ledge (i.e that are a few inches down from the ledge) would be further down than the ones on the ledge, but body levelness would remain constant, and you would have full traction on this surface. with a solid axle, the edge of each tire would be on the ground, cutting the contact patch, maybe, in half.

you could easily make the body remain level with a solid axle, but it would require LONG travel suspension and you would just have to crank the pre-load down several inches. it would stiffen up the ride a bit on road, but would dampen all the ruts and **** off-road. you would need to be careful because you could very easily hit a big hole and tear a tie rod out because there would be increased leverage on the wheel.

i plan to attempt this route with my 1993 ranger XLT.

as for travel, that is just pure wheel travel, solid axle would get less contact with the ground, but would generally get more efficient traction than an independently sprung back end (there is only so far that the drive shafts can bend in the joints before they pop out)

this is just my opinion, so if it is wrong, then PLEASE let me know.

also,

i have had this idea for a while. get the long travel kit for the ranger or whatever you are going to get, THEN, body drop the EX back to stock height, and modify the wheel wells. i really dont know at all if this would work or not, but if it would, thats an idea for you. in a few minutes im going to read all the posts and get some ideas for this system.

i plan on doing the Fabtech 5" long travel option, but only if i can keep stock height. im opting for the fabtech, cuz, hey, its full blue, and that looks cool (and would go well with my truck color)

i have also been considering the pre-load option and runnng double shocks front and rear. but first i want to get an 8.8" rear end for some beefyness.
 






fordkrazy - I'm thinking cut the front wall, build a full engine cage (for mounting the coilovers) and mounting the radiator on that, further forward, I'm also going to have the '98 bodystyle update, so I might not buy a hood, there's a 'glass shop in town that will make a hood for I think 300, I'll have a hood layed with a higher "power dome" (vertical clearance will be an issue) and a bit longer overall and modifying the grille accordingly. Or I may move the firewall a little further back...

:smoke:

Am I crazy? Probably...

[EDIT] 93Ranger - I just reread the last part of your post - I have had the same idea of adding a long-travel kit and then body-dropping. I don't think it would be worth the effort, since all the heaviest components would still be lifted, and with the engine I'm swapping in, I'd have some SERIOUS clearance issues underhood. It could work, in theory, I think. Is it worth the effort? I dunno...
 






93Ranger,
Have you seen any of the CORR race trucks or the old Mickey Thompson trucks? Those things sit on the ground but have major travel!!! My optimum goal would be to have my Explorer sitting on about 3-4 inches of lift looks wise but sitting on 35" tires with fiberglass and wheel openings that they could cleanly stuff into with out rubbing. All with a long travel suspension like 16-18 inches in the front and 14-18 inches in the rear.
 






Khris - sounds exactly like my goal - 4" of lift, 35's, 16-18 up front, 14-18 out back, no rubbing. That's exactly what I'm after.

:smoke:
 



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Yeah but you're going with the funny motor!! J/K!!
 






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