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Looking for a Subwoofer box for a 2003 XLT Explorer

Coolhand20th

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Joined
September 2, 2017
Messages
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Year, Model & Trim Level
2003 Ford Explorer Xlt
I don't have a factory subwoofer in mine. I also don't have the ability to make my own as I just don't have the skills or the tools to do so being disabled. So I am looking for some pictures to bring to someone local near Green Bay or maybe someone to make me one for a decent price possibly sometime in the next couple months. Just a carpeted setup coming close to the dark graphite interior would work.

I plan on using a single 10" or 12" Dual 2 ohm sub. Not sure on the brand yet as the amount of cubic inch space available to me will determine that.

What I do know is I would like to mount it on either side of the trunk area so I keep as much of that area for storage and when I go to get groceries for the month.

Thanks in advance
 



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The enclosure should be made precisely to the subwoofer's needs. Not all subs are the same. You cant slap one in an enclosure and expect it to sound good. Choose a subwoofer first, then find an enclosure that matches its specs, or have someone build one for you. But most importantly.... make sure it is SECURED to to the vehicle. I'm talking bolt that sucker to the vehicle. Velcro will not secure anything. Plan for the worst and hope for the best. Doesn't take much for an enclosure to become a missile beaming for your noggin.
 






Well that much I do know but I am not sure how much cubic feet can be put in those areas. Hence my inquiry on that part. Yeah I planned on making sure it is secured via bolts. Anyone who is dumb enough to use velcro on something like that should be hit in the head!
 






As far as subs go I am looking at either a 10" or 12" Rockford in the P3 series Dual 2ohm. I know the sealed optimum cubic feet for those two are the same at 0.6 cubic feet which should work. I have a 1ohm amp so I'm not concerned there. I already put all new 6x8's in and my new Kenwood KDC-X998 cd deck and those two actions alone improved the sound. I still have to run the 4 channel amp for those yet. Just haven't had time with a house remodel going on still.

I am hoping I can get someone to build me a box for it or come up with some plans to help me with this. I think I can get the guy doing the house remodel to build me the box as I can get 5/8" or 3/4" MDF board at Menards
 






Is that the optimum, or the minimum of the range? My last plan, since I always am moving junk was to build a shallow box that covered the floor of the cargo area. At .6 cubes that wouldn't work for you. You could almost sneak that under the rear seats.
 






Yes that is the optimum cubic feet. I was wrong it is .6 cubic feet for the 10" and 1.0 cubic feet for the 12". They just updated the 12" to 1.0 cubic feet since I last looked a couple weeks ago.
 






Edit: I see from searching people have used this from SubThump.com. But I see a lot of the pictures are not showing with that box installed. Can someone give me their experience with this box and the quality of it? The size is perfect for the subwoofer I am looking at that and it looks like it will still allow the cargo cover to work and not take up any room which is my main goal that and keeping it nice looking.

http://subthump.com/Ford-Custom-Sub...rd-Explorer-Side-Cargo-Stealth-Enclosure.html
 






Looks like a decent option. Im not a fan of how they think the enclosure will secure to the vehicle with just those little screws. Im also not a fan of terminal cups, but that is just my personal preference (weak plastic flexes under pressure). That being said, it still looks like a good option and the price is pretty great for what you get. Do it up and figure out a better way to secure it to the truck.
 






Looks like a decent option. Im not a fan of how they think the enclosure will secure to the vehicle with just those little screws. Im also not a fan of terminal cups, but that is just my personal preference (weak plastic flexes under pressure). That being said, it still looks like a good option and the price is pretty great for what you get. Do it up and figure out a better way to secure it to the truck.

Yeah that is my concern as well. How to mount it securely and not damage any of the stock trim. The cubic feet of it is perfect for the sub I am looking at as well. Now I just have to wait until the set of tires my Explorer came with sells on craigslist as that will just about cover the cost of the box.
 






Ordered this a few minutes ago, going to take a chance on this. Ordered through paypal so at the very least I have that money back guarantee to cover me if I don't like it or have issues with it.
 






Even if you use the screws they give you to mount the enclosure, it looks like it will still damage the stock trim. Keep us posted! I will be making a custom enclosure in the same location but I will be cutting in to the stock trim
 






Hopefully I can figure something out. I would build my own box but becoming physically disabled 13 years ago has left me like that for life. So I don't have the ability to do what I used to. But if it comes down to either hurting the stock trim I'll send it back. If that happens I'll have to just save and have the stereo shop build me a custom one somehow.
 






It's going to damage the stock trim. Looks like it screws right into it. I'd forget the screws, and use fender washers on the opposite side of the trim, and use small, hardened bolts. Two small holes in the trim shouldn't be that big a deal.
 






I'll figure something out or return it. I won't be using screws like they did that is just stupid to do not too mention it could easily dismount that way.
 






Got the box today...Overall it really is nice unit. The light grey even matched up close to the dark graphite interior that I have, I probably should have paid the extra 10 bucks for the medium but oh well it will be covered by the soon to be picked up cargo cover. As far as mounting it goes, removing that trim proved to be a real pain in the ass to say the least the 1st time, but I decided to put it back in and then remove it again and the second time took me only a few seconds to pop out. For mounting the box I was able to mount it with small bolts through the box with a holder on the back the type that you push through with the bolt and as you tighten it it tightens up against whatever it is you are mounting it to. I had to peel back that entire section in order to do it and then weasel my arm up there to the 5 bolts I use but it works and is very secure and won't move. And no pics its already back together and too lazy and tired to even attempt to do it,lol Sub however was a pain as I had to pull off the rubber protector of the magnet in order for it to mount in there but it fits perfectly. Rockford Fosgate P3D2-10 w/ a new PPI P1000.1 that was certified tested out to almost 1110 watts at 1 ohm plus I already have my 4 P1683 3 ways installed with no amp. Still debating on adding in a 4 channel amp as tbh they sound really loud and clear off my Kenwood KDC-X998 cd deck, I mean yeah I have one that is a MTX 704x that is certified tested at 860 watts total. Idk if I feel like running all those cables or not,lol
 






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Yeah yeah,lol Not gonna happen not after putting it all together. I can however take one of the finished product once I get back next week from my trip to Chicago. I still have to run some wires for the amp anyways before I am done. Got too tired and not to mention MNF was coming on!
 






Well I FINALLY got everything installed a few weeks ago before the latest surgeries. I had back to back knee surgeries and in between those 2 I had enough time and felt good enough somehow to install everything. Sadly I forgot to take pictures as we installed it :(. I had a friend who does this professionally come over to help me as he had done one of these before and the finished product is really nice looking. I will get some pictures of that tomorrow or later this week.

Basically both amps, wiring were run into the 3rd seat mounting area. The panel that goes over makes it so you don't see a bloody thing under there. We had to remove the bolts on the back of the 2nd row seats, tilt them forward some without bending it giving us JUST enough room to run all the wires we needed. We also drilled a either a 3/4" hole on either side with a thin grommet on each of them to run the wires through. NOW one of the EASIEST things he had that helped with time was he had brought a enclosed wire that had all of the speaker wires in one sleeved setup. The wires in there were 16 gauge making it perfect for the 70 watts I am pushing to each speaker and is certified for use up to 140 watts thankfully making it easy if I decide to upgrade the amplifier pushing the 4 door speakers.

Since he works with Memphis and Stinger car audio products that is what I used for the wiring. Memphis 4 gauge power and ground wire w/ stinger ground distribution block & stinger fuse distribution block w/ 2 ANL fuses each with a 200 amp ANL Memphis Fuse Holder.

Amazingly there is a bunch of cool air flowing into this area even with the panel locked into place. Neither of my amplifiers get hot regardless of how much I push them.

The subwoofer I used was a P3D210 from Rockford Fosgate, I had to remove the rubber protector on it in order for it to fit into the box. The box has a cubic foot rating of 0.65 so there is lots of options out there. That sub while it hits nice, I still think I might switch it out to something else just not sure yet to see if I can get a little bit better sound out of it. Don't get me wrong it sounds great but some songs it bottoms out and it shouldn't and I've tried it with poly-fill along without it. It sounds better without poly fill which to me is odd but oh well.
 






Glad to hear you got it all installed and that your surgeries went well. Still a worthless thread without pictures though ;)
 



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