Loss Of Power & Unable to Crank Beyond 3 Seconds

[mocamohunting]

I Was Driving My 2004 Explorer Down The Road, Went Around A Corner & It Just Came To Hault, It Did Not Die, It Lost Power & Would Not Accelerate. I Turned It Off Thinking Maybe It Had Popped Out Of Gear. It Turned Over & Has Power To All Lights, Radio & Dash Controlls. When I Try To Start The Engine, The Motor Tuns Over & Engine Will Crank For About 2-3 Seconds & Dies Over & Over Again. Giving It Gas Does Not Help & Reverse Is A No Go To. After My Husband Towed It Home. We Have Tested The Battery -Ok. The Fuel Pump Primes - Put On A New Fuel Filter - All Fuses Ok - The Relays Seem To Be Fine - The Emergency Fuel Pump Lever Is Down & Reset. Some One Mentioned That They Had Heard The Keys Can Go Bad Or Reset Themselves ??? Took It To A Scanner & The Error Codes Come Up P2104 & P2112. Only Other Thing That Might Help: Is That With The Key In The On Position, When I Put My Foot On The Foot Feed & Push Down You Get A Clicking Noise Under The Hood. Our Local Ford Dealer Ship Commented That They Would Love To Help Until They Found Out We Wanted To Try to Fix This Ourselves.. HELP!!!

 

[rgcme33]

maybe this will help... P2104 = faulty throttle position sensor
P2112 = throttle accuator stuck closed.

Throttle Actuator Control (TAC) System - Stuck Closed. ... P2104 is just an informative code, set because of P2112

I would look to the throttle actuator control module.

 

[jones0991]

i have a chilton's diagnostic book for fords and the trouble code P2104 means that you may have to replace the PCM. the book says clear the codes and if the codes come back then the PCM will have to be replaced. The code P2112 also is for a faulty PCM so my best bet is for you to replace it. Then your X should run back to normal. You could either go to a junk yard and see if they have one in their lot or go and buy a new one, the choice is up to you. hope i could help out.

 

[rgcme33]

^^^ What?? Trouble code says you need to replace PCM? No, actually trouble code is for TAC system. Throttle actuator control. (Google is your friend) The PCM controls the TAC, so how can you directly blame the PCM without troubleshooting the TAC system. TAC consists of a sensor and a DC motor. Either may have failed. Once ruled out, look to PCM.


In the Ford ETC system, the PCM directly controls the position of the
throttle plate by use of a DC motor. A redesigned throttle body, coupled with a
redesigned PCM, a redesigned throttle position sensor (has 2 position sensors
inside of it), and the addition of an accelerator pedal position sensor (APPS)
make up the ETC system directly. The ETC system replaces the throttle cable and
brackets, IAC valve and it’s wiring, cruise control servo, plus some wiring for
the cruise system as well.
Based on the APPS input, the PCM changes the angle of the throttle plate by
directly actuating the DC motor mounted to the throttle body assembly. The TPS, mounted on the throttle body, provides feedback to the PCM of the throttle plate position. The purpose of the TPS has been modified in the ETC system from that of the cable type system. Rather than being the source of driver throttle demand information, the TPS is now simply for the PCM to be able to monitor its own actions with the throttle plate. The APPS sensor is now what represents the driver’s throttle demand.


The electronic throttle body (ETB) is very similar to the cable operated
throttle body, with a few notable changes. Among the most noticeable of
changes, is the addition of the throttle actuator control motor (TAC). The
motor is used to open and close the throttle plate based on direct command from the PCM. On Ford products, the motor is currently located either on the side of the throttle body or underneath, depending on application. There are only 2 wires to the motor.

Rather than simply bolting the
motor to the side of a traditional throttle body, the throttle body is
specially molded for mating with the motor. The TAC motor turns two reduction gears inside of the throttle body that link the drive gear from the motor to the throttle plate shaft. Although the motor can be removed from the throttle housing, it is not currently considered to be serviceable separate from the throttle body.

Check that the throttle plate is not stuck, check the TPS, and the Throttle Actuator Motor. If all of these check out ok , then look to the PCM.

 

[rgcme33]

And that clicking noise... see if the throttle plate moves when you hear it. The gear may have broken leaving the plate closed, and you with this problem.

DO NOT do what the guy said and just go out and get a PCM. This would be the last thing to replace in this situation. You most likely have a failed Throttle Position Sensor or a failed TAC motor.

 

[rgcme33]

Chiltons = fail

 

[jakedrew]

any update?

I personally too would look at the throttle postion sensor stuff first.

Good luck

 

[jrford]

rgcme33 sounds like he is all over it. . .if that plate dosnt move with the pedal.

that electronic throttle body may come with the sensor and motor, might want to check a junkyard too, you should be able to get it all, but by the sound of your screen name that sounds slim. fleabay if you can wait. . .

 

[postal_lab]

the code 2104 and 2112 both came up after I replaced the battery. Is there any connection between the codes and the battery?

 

[ragajungle]

I smell a recall.. Didn't toyota have (yet another) recall because of faulty electronic throttle control issues? I really don't like electronic stepper motors and sensors doing what a throttle linkage could do easier and cheaper and more reliably. uhhhg new cars

 

[rickyraccoon]

Found this thread researching. '04 Exp w/4.0 Flex. Couple times it's died in traffic, starts bogging down then when come to slow enough speed dies. Takes minute to restart reliably. Been having FRPS fuel pressure 'high' code, thought it was something to do with that, but now I don't know. Also car has, since we've owned it, been a bit jerky when trying to make small accelerations, e.g., backing out of driveway. Well got around to replacing that pesky fuel rail sensor, had intake off, bit of a ***** getting that egr tube back on the valve, had to whale on it, yank on it, etc., then using a too-big knucklebuster crescent wrench on it, which bangs against the.... Throttle Position Sensor....!.... all buttoned back up not run five seconds before shutting back down, no more FRPS code but those twins P2112 & 2104. Hmmm. Decided to throw money at it ran to Autozone got a TPS sensor. Problem solved. Also accelerator/throttle action sooo much smoother than it was before, methinks the TPS was getting ready to crap out anyway, & I just helped it along somehow. True, the TB was full of gunk & I did clean it out, 'just in case', but I really think it was the TPS, the plate moved freely by hand already (spring loaded, of course, but freely enough). Next would've been the motor (by mailorder), but fortunately not necessary. So far so good, anyway. Just have to keep tabs on it, did not follow the instructions with the new one. Didn't HAVE the new one when I removed the old TPS. Sorry, I just don't have a heat gun on me! (what the?- melt the threadlock then throw the new one on tout suite? ya gotta be kiddin' me) So we used good old threadlocker blue, I'll check it in a week make sure it's still on there good & tight.

& I agree with raga. Drive by wire is bullcrap.