LOTS of codes, and need some help! | Ford Explorer Forums - Serious Explorations

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LOTS of codes, and need some help!

javey

Well-Known Member
Joined
April 7, 2006
Messages
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City, State
Spokane
Year, Model & Trim Level
98 XLT
Well I am having a lot of troubles lately, and need some help out. First let's start with emission codes and what I have checked.

I am getting a code p0171 and p0174, have done my research on these on here as well...I found out that the most probable cause is the upper/lower intake manifold gaskets, so I had those both replaced. Here is the list of what I have done that would be pertinent to lean fuel mixture:

Changed upper/lower IM gaskets
Changed PCV valve
Checked for vac. leaks (I think good enough) with a can of carb clean
Checked air intake system
Replaced MAF sensor
Changed fuel filter about a year ago
Ran fuel injector cleaner
EGR valve changed around 20,000 miles ago (not related though I don't think)

I mean I have tried literally everything on this...short of the oxygen sensors. Got both codes at the same time as well, so I highly doubt it is the oxygen sensors.

Now on to the ABS codes I've been getting:

c1102,c1230, and c1237, all related to the rear wheel sensor

See, the problem with this is, I have tried THREE different sensors. Napa for 2, and Ford Motorcraft for one. I can say that there is NO way that they are all defective. I replaced the harness that goes to the sensor as well. I've cleared the codes with a professional scanner three times, and all three times they come back. The light acts a bit funny as well, sometimes it's on, sometimes it's off. Usually it's just on though. It seems like when it's cold out it stays off most of the time. It also only comes on once I go into gear. Any ideas on this stuff?

Javey
 



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About the ABS problems - check ALL the wires going from the rear ABS sensor to the computer and from the acceleration sensor (somewhere on the left frame rail IIRC). Trace the wires from the acceleration sensor and the rear ABS sensor one by one and look for cracks in insulation, shorts, etc. Follow them all the way to the ABS controller if possible. This sounds like an electrical or computer issue to me - I doubt the rear sensor itself has anything to do with it since you replaced it already. Could also be something with the ABS tone ring in the differential but that wouldn't cause the c1102 error...
 






Hmm, is there any way I can check the wires with my volt meter back at the sensor? To see if they are working? I tried seeing where the wires go, but they seem to go up INTO the body or something...
 






Also, I have cleaned the MAF, still no difference. Would two upstreams really go bad at the exact same time? I don't want to go wasting money so I am scared to even try changing them. That is my last solution I will go for. Anything else people have experienced?
 






....Wow, I just started reading all your different threads on these same 2 items, the CEL codes and ABS problems...If all the information was put together in one place, you might get some better help...You have really been getting good answers for the bits of info you supplied in each thread..;)

...And it is possible for your maf to just be bad..
 






Well I've tried all of that, and none of it worked. Cleaned the MAF again and it seemed to run ok for a bit once I cleared the codes, but they came back after about 200 miles. I have a new symptom though, the car did idle crazy once when it was started and it died out. Right when I started it up. Was probably like 30-35 degrees out. Sounds like the intake manifold o-rings to me, but those were just replaced...eh?
 






Did you check the IAC valve? May need to be cleaned/replaced. THere's a thread on cleaning it somewhere around here...
 






did u replace the egr valve gasket when you changed the egr valve? if not try sprayin it with carb cleaner. if it is suckin in the carb cleaner the engine rpms will jump maybe not a lot but they will. if they do then u found your problem.
 






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