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Lots of mod ideas, so little cash flow

Nova_Hawk

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City, State
South Okanagan, BC, Canada
Year, Model & Trim Level
1992 Ford Explorer XL 4X4
So, bear with me here, this'll sound pretty stupid. I got three ideas to put out there.

92 Explorer XL 4x4. Virtually stock but lots of repairs to OEM, looking to change that before October 31st hits as I will hopefully participating in the local Gambler 500. Slight lift from new front suspension replacement, will be adding Belltech 6400 Shackles to rear leafs for an extra 2-3" lift.

1st.) I am looking to do area Dually setup. I know JC WHitney sold conversion kits for Rangers but I cannot find those kits to save my life. I see conv' kits for 8 lug F250-350s but not for my 5x114.3. So, my question to that is; Should I mount an adapter to my current wheels (on the outside of the rim) to space out and then add a new set of rims w/ rubber? Not gonna be used for towing, just for show. That said, would such an experiment be wise if the beat will be lugging over rocks and branches or is there a significant chance of failure on the added wheels? I found other forums covering this with mixed opinions but nothing conclusive.

2nd.) Exhaust Stacks. Yes I know, on a gasser. Also useful for the areas I live in as we get some heavy wildfires and id rather my hot exhaust be up and not within the tall, dry grass. So, what sounds better; Single wide-pipe stack? If so, mounted to the front-end, off and up the side, behind the wheel well, before the door? Or more in the rear, up the side between the read passenger door(s) and the wheel well? Apply the same question to dual stacks but add in a tertiary place to throw a snorkel.

3rd.) Suggestions on decent, if such a unicorn exists, tires for mud/snow and if possible, ice. Otherwise, just decent, inexpensive skidders to manage the back-roads.

I already know I'm an idiot, my ol' lady reminds me that every day, I just wanna push the bar to a new level lol

Edit; Located in Western Canada so if you link to a product that doesn't ship Internationally,I'm kinda boned.
 
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RangerX

Elite Ranger
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Welcome to the forum!
My advice, skip the mods that are for show, the dual rear wheels and the exhaust stacks. Spend you time and money on things that have actual benefit.
A few of the top of my head, switch the hubs to manual if you have the autos. Drop in a rear lunchbox locker. Swap in a manual transfer case if you can find one. Put in 2” coils up front to match the rear lift from the shackles.
 
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Nova_Hawk

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South Okanagan, BC, Canada
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1992 Ford Explorer XL 4X4
Welcome to the forum!
My advice, skip the mods that are for show, the dual rear wheels and the exhaust stacks. Spend you time and money on things that have actual benefit.
A few of the top of my head, switch the hubs to manual if you have the autos. Drop in a rear lunchbox locker. Swap in a manual transfer case if you can find one. Put in 2” coils up front to match the rear lift from the shackles.
My front coils are definitely a nice bump up, i think its sitting at 2" as-is in height, just gotta get the shackles for rear leafs.

As for the diff; I dont have a lot of experience with them (or transmissions), is it a weekend-long job or week long (before we even ponder a snapped bolt)?

The stacks, to me, have a benefit to avoid setting my mountains ablaze. The duallys were very much form>function but the stacks are more function>form.

I'm not sure what you mean by manual/auto hubs. I'll google into those.

Same for the transfer case. Kind of lost on what you mean as it has a 4x4 option.

And rubber recommendations?

And thanks for the welcome! I figured i'd make my first post a little out there to get the party started.
 
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Entropy

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1993 Explorer XLT
I'm not sure what you mean by manual/auto hubs. I'll google into those.

Same for the transfer case. Kind of lost on what you mean as it has a 4x4 option.

The front wheels have that part that sticks out and says "4x4" on them. If you take the wheel off, that comes off next and you can see how they go together. I would recommend replacing the rotors and wheel bearings while you're in there. I did this in about ~4 hours (3 hours for the left + learning curve and 1 for the right).

The transfer case sits behind your transmission - look at where your front and rear driveline come together. That's the thing that turns your front wheels when you press the 4x4 button in cab.

With manual locking hubs (that assembly between the wheel and the rotor), you need to get out of the truck and physically turn them to activate 4WD. I think the Warn sets are $150ish?

Replacing the transfer case is realistically about a 5-6 hour job. I was able to get all but one bolt (the one at the top between the frame) and just got a shop to do it. Was about $250, with me supplying the transfer case and fluid and removing the front driveshaft to cut down on labor.

So far as stacks are concerned, I would recommend a single going out before the rear right tires if you want to keep the stock cat. If you don't care about street legalities, you could go out the side in front of the passenger door. Alternatively if you want to keep the exhaust completely stock, you could cut the tailpipe right before the end, put a 90 degree elbow on and go up the back of the passenger side by the taillights.

I wouldn't recommend trying to hamfist a dually setup and risk having a wheel fall off. Probably be easier to swap an F250/350 dually rear drivetrain in

Haven't done differential work before.
 
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