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low volts, battery light on

cogs

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'94 sport 2wd
Solved low volts, battery light on

94 sport 2wd
my voltmeter suddenly dropped and stayed low, with the battery warning light on, while driving.
1. battery and alternator are good.
2. car starts.
3. cleaned battery cables/posts.
4. ground connector to 2 pin plug dirty, so i cleaned.
5. positive cable is spliced, but since the car starts, don't know if that's
applicable.
going to put alternator back on tonight. what should i check next, and what should i be looking for?
 
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racer_x_one

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If you have a DVM check your voltage at the battery with the engine off (should be about 12.7) and with it running (should be at least 13.6). If you get less than 13.6 at the battery while it's running check it at the alt. If it's 13.6 or above at the alt check your fusable link. The main charge wire going from the alt to the starter solenoid on the fender by the battery.
 
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cogs

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thanks racerx1, i have continuity at the fusible link going to the solenoid (checked it with the ends disconnected).
checked the small fuses in the fender fuse box, they're good. the voltage dropped and light came on suddenly, so it wasn't a gradual drain, but like a disconnection or break.

from the starter is a smaller wire (with a tab connector) that is spliced with a butt connector, going back up to the positive batt cable (i think). will that line have anything to do with the charging system? am i missing something to check?
 
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racer_x_one

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thanks racerx1, i have continuity at the fusible link going to the solenoid (checked it with the ends disconnected).
checked the small fuses in the fender fuse box, they're good. the voltage dropped and light came on suddenly, so it wasn't a gradual drain, but like a disconnection or break.

from the starter is a smaller wire (with a tab connector) that is spliced with a butt connector, going back up to the positive batt cable (i think). will that line have anything to do with the charging system? am i missing something to check?

If your talking about the thin red wire coming from your starter solenoid (connected to the same spot as the power for the fuse box) and looks like it goes to the battery positive term, no. That supplies 12v down to the solenoid on the starter to engage it. Did you check your voltages at the battery and back of alt?
 
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cogs

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i did check them, but i'll do it again, because it was someone else who checked them. thanks for quick reply.

is there a way to check the multipin alternator connector? i'm unfamiliar with its end termination, and i want to check its continuity with a dvm.
 
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cogs

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my son called and said he checked the alternator nut to the solenoid (the fusible link), and said he got nothing with the car started. so we're going to get the alternator tested at a different store, and see if it still shows good. if not, we were going to take apart the alternator.
 
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racer_x_one

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is there a way to check the multipin alternator connector? i'm unfamiliar with its end termination, and i want to check its continuity with a dvm.

The single white/black wire doubles back into the three pin connector as the middle wire. The green/red wire is your alt indicator light (dash light). The yellow/white wire goes to the fuse box on the fender by the starter solenoid.

my son called and said he checked the alternator nut to the solenoid (the fusible link), and said he got nothing with the car started. so we're going to get the alternator tested at a different store, and see if it still shows good. if not, we were going to take apart the alternator.

When he checked the fusable link, I'm assuming he was checking for voltage, right?...and he wasnt getting anything with the engine running? If the alt is bad and not charging he should still get battery voltage. At least at the solenoid if the fusable link is good than also at the alt nut. You said you have continuity there, right?
 
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cogs

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We have power, captain. Replaced the alternator and it's charging the battery now. Even after O'Reilly's tester said the old one passed. I went to Autozone, and their tester said the old one failed, then, I asked them to check the new one, and it failed too. So instead of waiting around for them to check the machine, I just went to O'Reilly's and bought a new one. Now the voltmeter is up, and the batt light is off.
 
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racer_x_one

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We have power, captain. Replaced the alternator and it's charging the battery now. Even after O'Reilly's tester said the old one passed. I went to Autozone, and their tester said the old one failed, then, I asked them to check the new one, and it failed too. So instead of waiting around for them to check the machine, I just went to O'Reilly's and bought a new one. Now the voltmeter is up, and the batt light is off.

Excellent, glad to hear it.
 
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