Lower Ball Joint Replacement How To (lots of Pictures)

[jremington59]

It's nice to see someone else show their appreciation for money saved by helping the site. I had never done any of this and replaced the entire front end by using the threads here. I replaced the hubs, cv's, inner and outer tie rods, upper and lower ball joints and control arms for less than the shop wanted for just the lower ball joint install.... I don't think I needed anything other than one hub and the lower ball joints but decided seeings I was saving money I might as well have it all new.

 

[raiders1_3]

I had mine apart 2 years ago. I Started at 8pm and hammered the crap out of the upper ball joint and the control arm and they are still stuck. I used PB Blaster and now I'm letting them sit over night. Any other suggestions?

 

[mr_valingo]

A map gas torch is my best friend. He hangs out with a bfh. They'll help ya out

 

[jremington59]

I had mine apart 2 years ago. I Started at 8pm and hammered the crap out of the upper ball joint and the control arm and they are still stuck. I used PB Blaster and now I'm letting them sit over night. Any other suggestions?

Did you take the bolt all the way out?

 

[RomeovilleIL]

Did you take the bolt all the way out?

As long as that crossbolt is completely out, the only thing holding the joint in will be rust. You might not be using the right tool.

You need at least a 2 or 3 pound mini sledge give it enough shock to move.

http://www.autozone.com/autozone/ac...ross-pein/_/N-25qn?itemIdentifier=391353_0_0_

If for whatever reason you cant get it to budge with a large hammer, i have yet to hear of one that won't force apart using a picklefork. Not too expensive & you need it for the lower ball joint anyway plus come in handy on all kinds of other projects.

http://www.autozone.com/autozone/ac...separator/_/N-264r?itemIdentifier=555664_0_0_

You don't pry with a picklefork. Set the tongs on either side of the items you want separated and hammer the end of the handle to force it into the joint. The tongs act as wedges to push the items apart as it moves forward. The only downside is they tend to rip the boots, but if you are replacing the joint who cares?

 

[mikepier]

I had mine apart 2 years ago. I Started at 8pm and hammered the crap out of the upper ball joint and the control arm and they are still stuck. I used PB Blaster and now I'm letting them sit over night. Any other suggestions?

It is important that the ball joint stud gets pulled out of the knuckle "straight" and "square", otherwise it will not come out easy.
Also try hitting the knuckle, not the control arm, with a heavy hammer.

As mentioned above, a pickle fork also works.

You said you had it apart 2 years ago. Are you replacing the ball joints already?

 

[raiders1_3]

Ball Joints on a 2004 Explorer

Thank you for your help. It took 8 hours because of the rust on the upper ball joint and the extension arm. I was originally replacing just the lower ball joint but had to do the upper and the tie rod extension arm as well, only because I had to beat them out with a hammer. I soaked everything with liquid wrench over night. Great stuff. Thanks again for the pics / post.

Randy:smoke:

 

[raiders1_3]

It is important that the ball joint stud gets pulled out of the knuckle "straight" and "square", otherwise it will not come out easy.
Also try hitting the knuckle, not the control arm, with a heavy hammer.

As mentioned above, a pickle fork also works.

You said you had it apart 2 years ago. Are you replacing the ball joints already?

I had it jacked up and pretty square. Once they soaked over night in liquid wrench it only took a few whacks with a hammer and they broke loose.

That's what I said when I went to get a sticker. I used moog parts. I ended up doing the upper ball joint and the extension arm too. I still saved $300 doing it myself.

 

[RickTrblfld]

Great pictures and info. If I might suggest that removing a ball joint with a blow to the threaded stud will most times lead to damaging those most crucial start threads, resulting in the nut not starting normally. If you've made it this far I suggest useing a ball joint to knuckle removal tool or at least a Crow foot, the latter could cause damage to the ball joint boot but wont hurt the threads. Of course this is pertaining to the ball joint that you plan to reuse...if everything is being replaced...Whack-away! Again, Great pictures and info!

 

[Arsenil]

Thanks for your post and tricks that you bring out

Hey,

So that's really nice of you to post a detailled topic. And you helped me so much on this work. And i did the Upper + lower + the end tie rod in not more than 45 min. I taught it'll take me so much more, because i'll need a press. Since i saw your post that went faster.


Thanks for your post and tricks that you bring out

See ya

 

[MGiovanni]

very cool. works for me. thanks.

 

[Blrob]

Just did all the ball joints, shocks, and brakes on my friends 2000 Explorer. Having a "BFH" and PB Blaster were a big help, considering the truck was rusty as hell from sitting for several months. I used the ball joint press kit from Autozone. The kit was simple enough for both removal and installation. Best thing to do is make sure you spray everything down before you start the job, especially if the truck has been sitting. Since I was going to replace the ball joints, i decided to do the shocks as well. I actually started working on the truck Sunday afternoon and finished it yesterday after I got off work. Probably would have had done on Sunday, but between running kids home, the daughters Mounty breaking down and who knows what else, didn't get it done until yesterday after work. My friend wasn't in hurry to get the truck back, so time wasn't an issue. Everything went nice and smooth, thanks to this write up, with exception of the rust. Big ups to Evan for the write up and pictures, I didn't know doing the ball joints was so simple!

 

[Sedition]

What is the best place to hit the LCA with my 4lbs hammer when I'm putting the new LBJ's in? That's tomorrow mornings job.

 

[mikepier]

What is the best place to hit the LCA with my 4lbs hammer when I'm putting the new LBJ's in? That's tomorrow mornings job.

If you are using the jack method, then the best place to hit them is probably right around the area where the ball joint is right around the outer tip of the arm. The trick is make sure the ball joint goes in square, so hit it in different spots around the LCA .The LCA arm is thick steel, it will be able to take a few blows with the hammer

 

[daizex]

While searching rockauto.com I came across cheaper lower ball joints:
RAYBESTOS Part # 5051281B lower ball joints

Has anyone had any experience with them? They are like only 11$ and I know you get what you pay for but will these do the job or should I spring for MOOG?

 

[monster5685]

Thanks, for a great write up. I didn't bother getting the ball joint kit from auto zone. I just beat the old out with a 2lb ball ping hammer and used the jack method. saved my self 240$

 

[henrydwh]

Did mine today

Thank you for this great post! I did both sides, upper and lower! It was on a 97 explorer AWD V8. The only problem was the driver side UCA, the back bolt on the UCA took me for ever to get out, the brake and fuel lines where in the way! Took me some time but I got it out! If there is a trick on here for that I missed it!! Everything else is spot on!! PB blaster, and a BFH and use the floor jack trick! Great write up, many thahks!

 

[gtbutler]

Just about done

Thanks for all of the great information in this post.

While I was in there I did upper and lower ball joints. The uppers were a bear on my 05 Explorer FWD. The bolts were rusty and i had to do the loosen a half turn, hit it with PBlaster, tighten a quarter turn, PB, loosen a half...

Just wanted to add that an old mechanic friend would always place anything he was going to "press in" in the feezer the night before he would do his work. Yes, it might only be a thousandth of an inch, but it sure makes the pressing in easier. Give it a try, it works.

 

[KiloCharley]

I'm having a senior moment I guess. What does PB or PB blaster refer to in several of the posts? Remember, blessed are the thick.

 

[ophidia]

http://www.pbblaster.com/