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Lower ball joint replacement

Hammer77

New Member
Joined
April 11, 2009
Messages
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City, State
Boston
Year, Model & Trim Level
98 Explorer Limited
I just replaced my lower ball joint on my 98 Explorer Limited with a Moog one but its too small for the bore and slides up and down in the control arm. Moog makes an oversized ball joint (part number K8695T006) that fits a bore size 1.749” to 1.753” that sounds like its made for this purpose. Has anyone ever tried this oversized ball joint or would I be better off just replacing the whole lower control arm?
 



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Pick up an micrometer for a couple bucks at an autoparts store and measure the inside diameter of the hole in the control arm.

When I did my balljoints they were a VERY tight fit.
 






Same with mine it was really tight. I had to rent a ball joint remover from auto zone to get the old one out and the new one in.
 






I installed a Moog one on the drivers side a few years ago and it fit fine and i haven't had any problems. On the passenger side tried a Napa/TRW ball joint but I had problems getting the dust boot on so I took it back out and returned it for a Moog one. It seems like it stretched out the bore hole so the Moog one doesn't fit. I'll have to check the hole size with a digital caliper.
 






I love moog stuff. I used moog ball joints on my ranger and when parts start going on the explorer im switching to moog.

I needed a balljoint press to remove and install the balljoints on the ranger as well.

One thing that helps is freeze the balljoint and heat up the control arm.
 






Hi I"m confused on the replacement of the ball joints of my 2000 Ranger xlt 2 wd with coil springs. The vehicle has 136,000 miles the upper is real sloppy on the left side. The Haynes book says both upper and lower control arms have to be replaced . Ford Dealer says the upper control arm and ball joint are all in one. But shows the lower as a separate piece. Is ford right or is Haynes. If I change one should I change all of them considering the mileage. There are no grease fittings on these ball joints. Would it be better to get the parts from Ford or can I get them from and Auto Parts store? I know there are a lot questions in this post and I appreciate you responses.
 






Hi I"m confused on the replacement of the ball joints of my 2000 Ranger xlt 2 wd with coil springs. The vehicle has 136,000 miles the upper is real sloppy on the left side. The Haynes book says both upper and lower control arms have to be replaced . Ford Dealer says the upper control arm and ball joint are all in one. But shows the lower as a separate piece. Is ford right or is Haynes. If I change one should I change all of them considering the mileage. There are no grease fittings on these ball joints. Would it be better to get the parts from Ford or can I get them from and Auto Parts store? I know there are a lot questions in this post and I appreciate you responses.

1) Ford is right, your lower balljoints are seperate from the control arm, they press in. Upper balljoints are indeed part of the A-arm (however, there are 2 piece A-arms for the passenger side in existance)

2) If one side is gone, chances are the other is well on its way

3) Replace with Moog, they are the best
 






Ball Joints

Thanks My Pos Mounty . I'll let you know how it goes.
 






Ball Joints

The left side went ok but I think I was lucky I used moog on the upper control arm and lower ball joint. Everything came apart with a little effort. The right upper control arm is in but I can't pop the ball shaft shaft out of the spindle assembly (?? part title) . My puller doesn't have enough bite to grab the cast. I'm going to change the bearings as well. This is rwd so the I thought I could knock the races out but I quess I'll have to find a mchine shop. Any suggestions out there on bearing replacement.
 






In the spindle, there is a bolt that goes thru where it pinches the balljoint shaft. Are you having issues getting this bolt out, or back in?
 






It is the bottom ball joint . I took the castled nut but can't separate the lower control arm from the spindle assembly. I'm probably using the wrong terminology. If I don't separate these two i can't press out the ball joint
 






Oh, OK. Now I got it!
What you have to do (or at least what worked for me) is hit the steering knuckle with a hammer right around the area that the balljoint shaft passes thru. I threaded the castle nut on a few turns so the knuckle doesn't drop on the floor.
If that does not work, you could try a pickle fork, if you have one.
 






I was afraid I break the steering knuckle if i hit to hard. I have a pickle fork but is not wide enough. It is a tie rod end remover I bought about 40 years ago when I built a buick powered ford. but thats another story an a lot water under the bridge since then.
I look aorund for wider one. Thanks for your help. Say I marked the cams on the upper control arm I wonder how accurate that will be.
 






Your not gonna hurt the knuckle, no matter how hard you whack it.
Marking the cam bolts will help you keep it close, but it will still need an alignment.
 






Thanks for your help, this whole operation has saved me approximately $800 in parts and labor. The truck went 136,000 so I doubt I'll be doing it again I doubt it will make another 130,000. It was driven to Michigan from Tn numerous times until I bought it and there is no undercoating . I already changed the differential cover due to heavy rust. The body and bed look real good. There frame shows heavy rust. So we'll see how it goes. thanks again
 






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