Lower intake R&R 94 Paint Question Etc..

[Number4]

In the process of changing out my 94's lower intake gasket.
The valve covers were grey OE. Should I repaint them gray or some other color. What looks "cool?"

Also, anyone paint the upper intake?

Anything I should replace while it's open?
I figured sensors under intake, water pump, t-stat obviously.
Truck runs fine. Has the ping under load, which I believe is oil leaking into one of the cylinders causing pre detonation due to hot carbon.

Edit: Valve stem seals seam like a good thing to do. Never taken off rocker arms before. Seams simple enough. Just need the spark plug adapter for the compressed air.

 

[Anime]

The Ford Grey is a good color, it's light enough to show oil and fluid leaks but dark enough not to look dirty even with all the dust and dirt that get all over it. You can paint them any color you want though, it's a fairly inexpensive way to customize. Just be sure to use high-temp engine paint. I'd say using a rust-preventative primer to match is a good idea, too.

You can paint the upper intake as well, but since it's rough cast aluminum, you should be extra extra sure to scrub it clean clean clean to get the paint to stick.

I'd say paint the coolant elbow/outlet while you're at it, that's one of the other steel parts that seems to rust out on these.

Replacing the thermostat is a given, but replacing the water pump isn't, especially if it's still the original Motorcraft, those can last a long long time.

Ping under load is usually from the worn out rocker arms:

http://www.explorer4x4.com/lifters/lifters.htm

Valve stem seals are good to do if you can, easier with the hood off and with the top end of the engine apart.

 

[Number4]

I have a complete gasket set. Had it for some time.

Hmm, is that link yours? Wonder if I shouldn't just yank the heads and redo the valve assemblies. Haynes made it seem like you could leave the heads on. But I'm here. If all I need to do is slap on the new gasket, I've got that and the bolts.

 

[Turdle]

Just throwing these out for ideas

 

[Maniak]

Ok, some of you knew it was coming...

Instead of typing it again.. Here is what I posted in another thread when someone asked about engine paint..

<snip> Here are my two Lego motors.. (click the pics to get full size)

The motor in the explorer

engine-rebuild 019 by maniak_az, on Flickr

Installed..

engine-rebuild 031 by maniak_az, on Flickr

Here is the motor for the tow rig (Quadravan).
Dry fit.

460-dry-fit 005 by maniak_az, on Flickr

Installed.

460-end_of_install_day_1 007 by maniak_az, on Flickr

I use Duplicolor engine paint.
The colors I've used are....
Ford Blue
Grabber Green
Daytona Yellow
Ford Red
Cast Grey.

Until you cure the paint (drive it a bunch) engine paint is easy to scrape off. It will also come off very easily with carb cleaner etc. Once its cured it stays on much better.

~Mark

 

[Number4]

Love the paint.

I should mention, the engine only has 130k on it. No smoke out the rear, but does need a quart between changes.
The two center intake gasket ports are brownish while the outers are bright blue. So I presume there was oil leaking into the center ports.

The rocker arms are all in contact with the springs etc. They visibly appear fine. Seals all visually appear fine as well. My 88 S-10 had bad seals and it smoked at start up.
I guess, if I can get away with just doing the intake a valve cover gaskets, I'd prefer that. But I'm certainly open to others previous experience.

I'll have to ponder the paint idea. Standard grey, or get creative.....

Why Photobucket why? Won't shrink down for some reason though the last one did.

 

[Anime]

You might want to compress the springs and use an inspection mirror and a light to look at the rocker arm where it contacts the valve. That is where the wear is. It usually looks like this, even only after 120,000+ miles. Brand new complete rocker arm assemblies from Ford are only ~$80-90 (need two, of course), or you can get individual rocker arms if you want to disassemble and re-assemble the originals.

This is the clatter fix. Nothing else will do it. It's also a fantastic way to save your lifters from going bad - those are ~$40 EACH to replace - and aftermarket ones are not as good as the originals.