Lower radiator hose clamp broke

[Hacra]

Lower radiator hose? clamp mysteriously broke, and naturally the coolant leaked everywhere.

Now... replacing the old hose clamp i figured would be a easy task, old one out, new one in, easy peasy, job done... oh how wrong was i, first there is absolutely no room to replace the clamp sensibly, the old hose was in still working order but clearly old, didn't want to remove it in fear of braking it, so i installed new clamp while the hose wasn't removed (not the smartest move probably).

I had to remove radiator fan and it's shroud, to which i naturally didn't have any tools for, so i made them... that was an adventure for sure, got it all out and new clamp installed, but question remains, what is the name of the hose (pictures below), also picture of the broken clamp (how does that even happen).

 

[rasouth]

The lower radiator hose going to radiator should be accessible from underneath easily without removing shroud.
I like/dislike these type of clamps. If they are easy to get to they are easy to use, but in tight spaces they can be a pain. Over time the metal might rust, weak spot, metal fatigue and then they bust. Then you have to remove hose to replace clamp.
As for the hose picture, what hose are you referring to? I see upper radiator, lower radiator, water pump hose

 

[974X4BLACKSPORT]

If your replacing the factory spring type clamp with an aftermarket screw type clamp, you dont need to remove anything, just unscrew the clamp all the way and slip it over the hose and screw the clamp back together!

 

[C420sailor]

You’ve got a 302 with the old oil cooler assy. Def more of a pain in the ass because the shorter hoses are far less flexible.

I use stainless steel worm drive clamps on one of my trucks, simply because it didn’t come with the stock clamps. They work fine.

 

[Hacra]

I think we're speaking of the maybe... 5" hose to oil cooler assembly?

What's the diameter of the hose, i assume i have to cut one to lenght, if i intend to replace one.

Edit:

 

[410Fortune]

yes 96-97 5.0 explorers use a oil cooler in the lower radiator hose
The short top hose that goes from waterpump to oil cooler is a PITA to replace, yours appears to be ripped? Has damage below the clamp? At least the pic shows that.
Use stainless made in USA clamps to replace those stock spring clamps.
I have never seen one break like that

I usually delete the oil cooler and run a much more simple design, the 98-01 5.0 explorer did not have the oil cooler
I remove the cooler and hoses, install a 98 style oil filter mount and 98 style lower rad hose
The oil cooler can fail internally when it does you get oil in your water or vise versa (oil pressure usually higher then water pressure)

You can rent or buy a fan clutch wrench set, very very handy to have.

 

[Hacra]

@410Fortune You wouldn't happen to have any pictures and more information of this upgrade, i might consider doing that.

 

[1998Exp]

If your replacing the factory spring type clamp with an aftermarket screw type clamp, you dont need to remove anything, just unscrew the clamp all the way and slip it over the hose and screw the clamp back together!

The factory-style spring clamps may be harder to install, but are well worth the effort. The reason is that they significantly prolong the life of the hoses and are much less prone to developing slow leaks. That's because the clamping force has to come from somewhere. With the factory clamps, this force comes from the spring action of the clamp itself. The classic, worm-screw bands are rigid, and the clamping force comes from squeezing the hose. As the hose ages it loses elasticity, the clamping force disappears, and a leak starts. So you tighten the band more, and then even more, while a deep ridge develops and whatever little is left of the rubber finally breaks. With the old hard rubber unable to seal, no matter how much you squeeze it, many (myself included) ended up tightening the poor thing so hard that the radiator neck broke. Take a look at an old hose that had a factory clamp on it, and there is no ridge to speak of.

 

[Hacra]

Whatever the life span of the old hose might have, that worm screw band will be there for that time and it will hold.

I have it fixed, it's not leaking, but i will have to visit that part of nonsense land sometime in the future, will have to find right diameter hose then and completely replace all clamps with proper clamps. When that happens i will most likely replace the water pump, might as well order the thing now and have it ready when the pump or hose fails.

And i will also invest in induction heater to get those water pump bolts open as with my luck they are NOT opening easily, this car has seen the worse of the northern rust belt.

This car has become constant source of fixing, i do learn new stuff every time as i fix things, but what i really need is proper garage to completely rebuild the whole car and replace everything old and rotting, as i can't sell it anymore, i fixed it too much.

 

[410Fortune]

If you are going to do a water pump on a 5.0 mine as well plan to do the timing cover at the same time
Bolt heater is a very nice tool to have for the 5.0 waterpump!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
Funny you brought that up my new Bolt Buster (induction heater!) showed up yesterday....I am tired of fighting rusted bolts and you cannot always hit them with a torch...this tool is a game changer

Let me find some pics and info about the changeover from 96/97 oil cooler to 98+ no oil cooler
I delete the oil cooler on every 5.0 truck I build.........

 

[410Fortune]

here is a 97 engine with the dreaded water to oil lower radiator hose cooler

In 1998 Ford did away with these and so did I. I can see why they deleted them with all that aluminum and plumbing it likely saved a bunch of money and hassles.

This is what the 98+ style oil filter mount looks like:

The part is getting harder to find at the junk yards.

Here is the motorcraft stock 98-01 style lower rad hose
More Information for MOTORCRAFT KM4384


You can use a simple oil filter re location kit also, nice part about that is it gives you extra oil pressure ports to run a cooler or pressure gauge, etc.....

I run a Canton brand oil filter puck on my 5.0 engine, you can rotate it 360 degrees so you can point the hoses where you want them
There are many of these style adapters on the market now, Earls makes a nice one........

Here is the oil filter mount I used on my 88 Bronco II. The oil filter is re located to a new spot, I use a FL1a filter (larger) and the filter is mounted in the path of cooling fan air. Later I would learn to use liquid teflon tape (thread dope) on the threads and double clamp on the hoses to stop any leaks.

Funny a google search for "explorer 5.0 oil filter mount" brings up a metric ton of my old 5.0 project pics



fun fun waterpump/ timing cover bolts

Exposing the broken stud, there are 4 bolts that go through the WP and timing cover and into the engines water jacket = corrosion. 289/302 has always been this way = yuck!

we prep the exposed stud, weld on a piece of flat bar and viola! stud extracted. This method has worked for me several times now. I never had much luck welding on a nut, can never get enough weld on the stud. So we found using flat bar works wonders.....

Hope this helps!

 

[Hacra]

This certainly helps, thank you a LOT. Time to order parts!

Edit: what thread are the water pump bolts, metric or imperial?

 

[C420sailor]

Those studs suck. Annoying. When you get them out, replace with new. They’re likely corroded.

Neat trick I saw done for really stuck bolts. Guy took his stick welder and intentionally stuck a big ol’ electrode to it. Bolt gets nice and hot.

@410Fortune what do you use for an oil filter adapter gasket on the later 5.0 engines? Mine is starting to weep, and I’ve heard that gasket can’t really be replaced...

 

[410Fortune]

The O ring inside the oil filter mount can be replaced for sure (at the engine)

2000 explorer 5.0 oil filter mount O ring - Google Search

 

[CDW6212R]

FYI, the oil coolers ended in 1998, run over from extra parts is my guess. Of my three 98's, my 2nd one had one.

Jamie, have you ever tried a jumper cable and shorted to a stuck bolt head, before trying to loosen it? That's one trick I haven't seen mentioned here or my other forums. I will have to do something for my last 98, the WP began making noise about 200 miles before I stopped driving it. I had the first bolt break the last time I worked on it, doing the radiator then, plus balancer/WP/timing chain. I obviously didn't get the WP off, yet.

Ford should have made the WP bolts 3/8", and have coated them with sealant when installed the first time. They didn't care to.