Lowering or Brake Upgrade

[Wil Laura]

What's up fellows!? I'm have some fund to blow and was wondering, if you had a choice, would you lower the Explorer or get a brake upgrade?

I just recently installed black 22's on my 2016 Platinum with 70K miles and the itch got me. I was thinking of installed H&R spring with struts or the Power Stop Kit from Autozone ( I hope it's good) mainly for the look behind the black rims.

 

[peterk9]

Upgrading the brakes would prevent possibly voiding the powertrain warranty if it is still in effect should something go wrong. Brakes are always important.

Peter

 

[J_C]

$10 can of caliper spray paint for the win!

I may be biased, don't think my '14 brakes need upgraded and don't want a lower, harsher riding SUV which you probably already have with the 22's.

 

[KROTOS1970]

Upgrading the brakes would prevent possibly voiding the powertrain warranty if it is still in effect should something go wrong. Brakes are always important.

Peter

Does he have Warranty after 70k miles?

 

[KROTOS1970]

What's up fellows!? I'm have some fund to blow and was wondering, if you had a choice, would you lower the Explorer or get a brake upgrade?

I just recently installed black 22's on my 2016 Platinum with 70K miles and the itch got me. I was thinking of installed H&R spring with struts or the Power Stop Kit from Autozone ( I hope it's good) mainly for the look behind the black rims.

I have the H&R springs, I just have not put them on, the job is difficult and or expensive, I did however already replaced my rear swaybar with the steeda swaybar, it was fairly easy, and I notice the difference when turning, even with my 20"x 9.5" polished wheels wrapped with 275/45R20 110V, even with these 275s since it's a front wheel drive I still get a lot of wheel spin, my next front tires will be 285/40R20 108Y, I have Bullbars with a skidplate, once I have the H&R springs in with the new tires it will be 2.3" lower in the front the same as the rear with just the springs, keeping the same 275/45R20 110V in the rear, will more than likely replace the Rear Trailing Arms and the shocks and struts with the steeda's, muffler and resonator delete soon.
If I can get someone to post a video of the springs upgrade I would be much appreciated.

 

[J_C]

^ Isn't it the same as any other strut job, that you just compress the spring, take the strut tower off, take the top mount off, take the spring off, then reverse all that to reassemble, eyeball it to get the alignment close enough to right that it's safe to drive to a shop to get an alignment done?

Granted there may be more involved if the drop exceeds the adjustment possible for an alignment.

 

[KROTOS1970]

^ Isn't it the same as any other strut job, that you just compress the spring, take the strut tower off, take the top mount off, take the spring off, then reverse all that to reassemble, eyeball it to get the alignment close enough to right that it's safe to drive to a shop to get an alignment done?

Granted there may be more involved if the drop exceeds the adjustment possible for an alignment.

I dunno seems harder, I started taking bolts off and used 2 different floor jacks, but I couldn't figure out how to take it off, a mechanic told me $375 if alignment is needed or $275 if not, I should ask a different mechanic see what they say

 

[J_C]

^ I took a look at the '14 Workshop Manual and didn't see anything unusual... just the standard two strut to knuckle bolts at the bottom of the strut tower then the 4 bolts (engine compartment) for the top of the strut tower.

SECTION 204-01: Front Suspension	2014 Explorer Workshop Manual​
REMOVAL AND INSTALLATION	Procedure revision date: 06/03/2013​

Strut and Spring Assembly
Removal

1. WARNING: Do not apply heat or flame to the shock absorber or strut tube. The shock absorber and strut tube are gas pressurized and could explode if heated. Failure to follow this instruction may result in serious personal injury.
   WARNING: Keep all body parts clear of shock absorbers or strut rods. Shock absorbers or struts can extend unassisted. Failure to follow this instruction may result in serious personal injury.
   NOTICE: Suspension fasteners are critical parts that affect performance of vital components and systems. Failure of these fasteners may result in major service expense. Use the same or equivalent parts if replacement is necessary. Do not use a replacement part of lesser quality or substitute design. Tighten fasteners as specified.
   Loosen the upper strut mount nuts.

1. Remove the wheel and tire. REFER to Section 204-04A, Wheel and Tire

1. NOTICE: Do not use power tools to remove the stabilizer bar link nuts. Damage to the stabilizer bar link ball joints or boots may occur.
   NOTE: To remove the stabilizer bar link nut, loosen the nut, then use the hex holding feature to prevent the stabilizer bar link ball joint from turning while removing the stabilizer bar link nut.
   Remove and discard the stabilizer bar link upper nut.

1. Detach the wheel speed sensor harness from the strut.

1. Using a suitable jackstand, support the lower control arm.

1. Index-mark the 2 lower strut-to-wheel knuckle bolts.

1. Remove and discard the 2 lower strut-to-wheel knuckle nuts and bolts.

1. NOTICE: Damage to the lower control arm bushings may occur if the lower control arm is not supported.
   Remove and discard the 4 upper strut mount nuts.
   • Carefully lower the lower control arm and remove the strut and spring assembly.

Installation

1. NOTICE: Suspension fasteners are critical parts that affect performance of vital components and systems. Failure of these fasteners may result in major service expense. Use the same or equivalent parts if replacement is necessary. Do not use a replacement part of lesser quality or substitute design. Tighten fasteners as specified.
   Position the strut and spring assembly and loosely install the 4 new upper strut mount nuts.

1. Position the strut and spring assembly to the wheel knuckle and install the 2 new lower strut-to-wheel knuckle nuts and bolts.
   • Tighten to 250 Nm (184 lb-ft).

1. Attach the wheel speed sensor harness to the strut.

1. NOTE: To install the nut, use the hex holding feature to prevent the stabilizer link ball joint from turning while installing the nut until snug. Finally, tighten the nut using a socket and a torque wrench.
   Install the a stabilizer bar link upper nut.
   • Tighten to 150 Nm (111 lb-ft).

1. Tighten the 4 new upper strut mount nuts.
   • Tighten to 55 Nm (41 lb-ft).

1. Install the wheel and tire. REFER to Section 204-04A .

1. Check and, if necessary, adjust the front end alignment. REFER to Section 204-00, Toe Adjustment - Front or REFER to Section 204-00, Camber Adjustment - Front

 

[peterk9]

Does he have Warranty after 70k miles?

Sorry. Missed the 70k in the post. So factory warranty is done.

Peter

 

[Wil Laura]

Decided to go the lowering route then I'll get the brakes when it's time to have them replaced. I received the H&R springs the other day, I now need to find the right shocks and struts combo. Any recommendations? I figure I might as well change them too since they'll need to be removed for the spring install; at almost 70K, they'll be due to be replaced anyways.

Autozone has a good special right now offering 20% off of order $100 or more. Is anyone familiar with the Sensen or Bilstien brand?

 

[peterk9]

Decided to go the lowering route then I'll get the brakes when it's time to have them replaced. I received the H&R springs the other day, I now need to find the right shocks and struts combo. Any recommendations? I figure I might as well change them too since they'll need to be removed for the spring install; at almost 70K, they'll be due to be replaced anyways.

Autozone has a good special right now offering 20% off of order $100 or more. Is anyone familiar with the Sensen or Bilstien brand?

If you want to stay OEM, Levittown has up to 30% off parts. Discount Ford Performance Parts, Lincoln Accessories | Levittown Ford

Peter