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lowering shackels...need help

moose1

Explorer Addict
Joined
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City, State
coupville, wa
Year, Model & Trim Level
99 xlt
I was at autozone and peared at the universal shackels they have one a hole at the top of the shackel and then at the bottom there are the three hole to lift it using them. Here is my idea, if you cut the shackel about half way and used the three bottom hole right you could bolt the top hole in the factory hanger hole and bolt the leafs up to the last hole that three hole set up is almost 2 inches shorter than the stock shackels would that lower the ex.???
 



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I think I follow you on this......

But the EASIER solution would be to just buy the lowering blocks that were sitting next to those shackles, and lower the rear-end the way everyone else does it....

Ryan
 






I think 2" shorter might be at or pass the limit. But here's my two cents:

There is a limit to the minimum length of the shackle. Simply put it, when the rear of the vehicle is pushed down, the rear leaf spring lengthens which rotates the shackle to a more horizontal position. Now assuming that the shackle doesnt have a central horizontal piece like the stock shackle, if the shackle is too short, the "eye" of the leaf spring will hit the frame rail.

I guess you could alwas put a bump stop right where the leaf spring would come into contact with the frame rail. You could also ghetto-fab the leaf springs - such as welding more metal to the top-side of each end of the overload spring but leaving enough gap between the added metal and the next leaf up on the stack (the overload spring is the most bottom one - and often the thickest). This would minimize the rear axle's vertical travel.

Or you could just do what Spdrcer34 suggested ;) Easiest solution.
 






I measured the stock shackel as apposed to to top of the leaf hitting the frame rail due to the shortness of the shackel but it would not be to short there would be plenty of room, i just want to know if this would lower it it was an idea i had and figured i would see. shorter mounting point means less push down on the axle means lower right.
 






That's a lot of work to lower the rear 2" when like Spdrcer34 said, less than $20 and an hour of your time you could have the 2" or 3" blocks in. In "theory" it sounds fine but I don't see the point. Good luck with whatever you decide to do though.
 






It doesnt seem anymore work than putting blocks in all i would have to do is cut the shackels so there not so long and bolt them up, its just somthing im going to try but i have the blocks i just want to see if this will work. So with its alot of work aside will this work.
 






I guess the only concern would be what IZwack brought up. Also remember that an inch off the shackle is only going to be about 1/2" in ride height. Give it a try and see what happens, then let us know. :thumbsup:
 






So what Zwack is saying is that if the shackel is to short the eye of the leaf will hit the frame rail primaturly thus cuasing the leaf pack not to streatch to proper lenght.
 












Jack one of the front wheels up so its a good amount off the ground (or ramp it on something), then go look at the opposite rear leaf spring (if you jacked up the front right tire, look at the rear left spring), that should give you a good idea of how far a leaf spring flattens out and how far the shackle's bottom bolt moves back relative to the top bolt.
 






Ill try it today and give you guys a heads up.
 






just go buy the drop springs.... spend the money. blocks give u a terrible ride, an axle wrap.
 






fordx302

I beg to differ on the 'horrible ride' comment. I have owned MANY vehicles that were lowered from the factory ride height. And I can tell WITHOUT A DOUBT IN MY MIND, that Drop blocks give NO DIFFERENCE IN RIDE than the OE specifications.


Lets' do an experiment:

Crawl under a 100% Stock X

Measure the length of the shock @ rest.

Install a 3" drop block

Measure the length of the shock again.

Have the measurements now changed by 3" in any directon?

The answer is NO. The ONLY thing you have done is spaced the axle farther away from the lower shock mount, NOT moved the shock mount up 3". The LOWER shock mount never changes it's position if you only install drop blocks.

DROP SPRINGS are another issue totally. THEY DO give a more harsh ride. And they DO change the length of a shock, because they change the arch of the springs, and re-locate the lower shock mount to be closer to the frame.

I have 3" Drop Leafs on my X, and a 2" block.....I know what I'm talking about when it comes to lowered suspensions.

Ryan
 






Longer shackles (for lift) have less structural integrity. Wouldn't shorter shackles be better as long as they don't cause frame-to-leaf contact? I've been thinking about using an alternative lift on mine, then shortening my shackles for strength. Moose1's idea would also keep the SUA perch out of harms way?
 






My friend runs a scary home-made shackle setup in his Blazer thats scary long, and its still going strong. Of course you can feel the axle moving left/right during a high speed turn. So dont worry too much about shackle strength, whatever you come up with will I'm sure hold up :D
 






Eliminate Axle Wrap?

Has anyone found the measurement for the shortest a shackle SHOULD be with the OEM eye spring? I would imagine it is close in length to that of the OEM shackles. If we found the perfect shackle length, then we would increase its integrity while also eliminating the possibility of axle wrap.:scratch:
 






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