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Lowering the Explorer

I was told that there is no difference between the two and I'm hoping that's true since I just picked up a Traxda lift for my '16.
 



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Finally got lowered, spaced, and aligned. Just wanted to share my experience with the alignment.

At first, the shop told me there was no way to correct the back camber. I pointed out that members of this forum have corrected it to between -1.3 and -1.6 (the right one was at -2.5 after springs/spacers installed). I had to talk to a couple guys and finally the senior mechanic figured out what to do. He pulled the top of the wheel outward while another tech loosened the upper bolt as much as possible. Once it was as far out as he could pull it, he had the tech retighten it. They got it to -1.3 and -1.4.

This seems about the best possible that can be achieved. With a camber bolt/kit, I suppose you could do better (idk tho... not my area of expertise). As another member mentioned, the factory specs are between +0.1 to -1.5... so i'm satisfied. The shop recommended rotation (front to back) every 3000 miles to monitor wear on the tires. Even though its free of charge, I doubt it needs to be done that often.

The alignment was $80, FYI (in So Cal). Total cost of the mod: $730. But what a difference that 1.2"-1.8" lower and 0.75"-1.0" wider makes in the handling!
 

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BTW, if you want an explanation of all these measurements, I found this page to be helpful: http://www.vikingspeedshop.com/suspension-101-camber-caster-and-toe/

In hindsight, I'm not entirely sure an alignment was necessary (though everywhere I read said it was... maybe just to make sure the values were ok?). My pre-alignment rear camber was -2.5... maybe that was a bit much, but would give me better handling. My front caster was -4.1, and (acc'd to that site) is better the more forward you can get (a greater negative value).

So... the alignment got me within specs for the vehicle, but probably reduced steering performance. I guess there's always a tradeoff. My tires are probably happier with it aligned.

If I wanted to get crazy, I could take a temperature gun and measure some tire temps after a hard drive... but I've heard this requires a highly accurate gun and a couple people to do (as the tires cool pretty quickly).
 












Has anyone dropped their 2016 yet? Looking at trading the 14 in and wondered what the new style looks like lowered.

Darren
 






thank you...the pics don't really do it justice . I didn't think it would change the look that much but it makes a huge difference in person :thumbsup:

How would you compared ride quality compared to stock...i am interested in lowering
 












I'm new here. I have a 2016 XLT and lowered with H&R. I had the same issue with the rear being high. Can someone post pictures of how the spring sits on the lower control arm? Thank you
 






I'm new here. I have a 2016 XLT and lowered with H&R. I had the same issue with the rear being high. Can someone post pictures of how the spring sits on the lower control arm? Thank you
Welcome to the Forum. :wavey:

Peter
 












I'm new here. I have a 2016 XLT and lowered with H&R. I had the same issue with the rear being high. Can someone post pictures of how the spring sits on the lower control arm? Thank you

Not following the question.....You mean how the spring sits in its perch in relation to the rubber top and bottom insulators? Are you concerned if its rotated into its correct position?
Mine is with the writing and part number upside down, by the way. According to my call to H&R, the orientation of text is irrelevant.
 












Its upside down. The coil does not follow the circumference of the rubber insulator. Top and bottom of the spring have different diameters and it looks like you have the smaller end of the spring installed on the larger bottom perch.
This whole upside down part number thing also threw me for a loop. I tried to fit it with the numbers upright and it just would not fit correctly.
I stopped and called H&R and they told me the orientation of writing is irrelevant. According to them: ignore the writing. If a 3.5" side of your OEM spring is at the top, install the 3.5" end of the new spring facing the top.
I hate to say it, but you will need to reinstall them. Please do call H&R to discuss before you act on my input.
 






Ok thanks! I kept trying to turn it and did not even think about it because of the writing.
 






I also want to note that my front springs also installed with the writing upside down.

Some more info that may come in handy for alignment.
Install the front strut assembly back with the strut mount facing the same way it came out. Don't rotate it 180degrees to gain +0.5 degrees of camber. I rotated mine thinking I will be too negative and ended up with -0.1 and -0.4 degrees. I would have liked more negative camber (as I had before I messed with it). Apparently, lowering does not change the front camber.
Maxing out the rear slot (top hub bolt) will get you about -1 degrees of camber, so you don't even need camber bolts. It will be right where it needs to be.
 






Are these the only lowering option beyond air ride? I'd personally like a slightly less aggressive drop, maybe approximately 1" up front and 1.7" in rear would be perfect.
 






Are these the only lowering option beyond air ride? I'd personally like a slightly less aggressive drop, maybe approximately 1" up front and 1.7" in rear would be perfect.

This is what you are going to get with the H&R springs on the Sport and I am not aware of any other options. In my case, I did not ever want an SUV (I actually dislike them quite a bit) and I have no use for ground clearance. Wife wanted 3 rows, I wanted something fast and with personality. This is essentially a faster, better looking minivan for us. For me, there are 0 drawbacks to lowering it. The ride did not deteriorate at all, but the handling has improved quite a bit. This has got to be one, if not the best modification I have ever done on any of my vehicles and I screw around with everything I own.
 






This is what you are going to get with the H&R springs on the Sport and I am not aware of any other options. In my case, I did not ever want an SUV (I actually dislike them quite a bit) and I have no use for ground clearance. Wife wanted 3 rows, I wanted something fast and with personality. This is essentially a faster, better looking minivan for us. For me, there are 0 drawbacks to lowering it. The ride did not deteriorate at all, but the handling has improved quite a bit. This has got to be one, if not the best modification I have ever done on any of my vehicles and I screw around with everything I own.

Just read through the thread, wasn't even remembering the Sport was lower at the time, so that sounds like it'll be exactly what I want. Thanks! :thumbsup:
 






It's Time!

Ok I have read this thread and many others throughout the years. I have done some mods to my explorer including the interceptor brake upgrade which I must say was a Huge improvement and a must do for these things. HID fog and headlights. I also put on some 22's. Tinted the windows and part of the front headlights and put some stripes on the front fenders. I bought sport model taillights that are darker and am planning a halo headlight install in the spring. Now it is time to lower it.
My questions are regarding clearances and towing. Again I read the entire 12pages of this thread but am still left with some questions, so this is for the folks that have actually put either the flex or the ex springs on a 4WD/AWD XLT model? Will there be issues with the 22's rubbing with towing or without towing a trailer? currently there is about 3" clearance front and back. As you can see it needs to be lower.

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what is involved in the interceptor brake upgrade? front calipers, front rotors, and all pads?
 






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