M5OD & manual T-Case swap question

[geoph1986]

Hello All (again),

First and foremost, thanks to all that have helped me with my problems in the past. I've said it before and I'll say it again, what a great site this is.
I have a 1994, Explorer XLT 4X4, 4dr with the stock 4.0L.

Anyway, my high mileage A4LD has sprung a leak at the front seal. I've read that these transmissions are s**t at the best of times, so I would like to drop in a manual transmission. Also, since I have to pull the T-Case, I would like to get rid of the electronic shift and put in a manual shift.

I don't do any hardcore wheeling (yet), my X sees a bit of off road use for fishing, hunting, and camping. I also don't do much towing, and the towing I do involves a 16ft aluminum boat and trailer and sometimes helping a buddy get home to save the cost of a tow truck.

So I've read that this is a bolt in type swap, and I believe I know what parts are needed from a donor rig.

I used my Hollander Interchange, and it says that I can use the following manual transmissions:
EXPLORER 91-97 M.T.; 4x4
MAZDA B-4000 94-97 M.T.; 4x4
MAZDA NAVAJO 91-94 M.T.; 4x4
RANGER 90-97 M.T.; 4x4, 6-245 (4.0L)
Is any one year of transmission better than the other? And why is it better or not. If I use a certain year, am I looking at more of a headache than using a different year? Is there anything I should think about that I haven't asked?

Hollander Interchange says that I currently have an electronic shift Warner 1354 T-Case, and it says I can use the following manual T-Cases:
BRONCO II 90 4x4, Warner 1354, manual shift
EXPLORER 91-95 manual shift
MAZDA B-2300 94 (Warner 1354), manual shift
MAZDA B-3000 94 (Warner 1354), manual shift
MAZDA B-4000 94 (Warner 1354), manual shift
RANGER 90-93 Warner 1354, manual shift
RANGER 94 (Warner 1354), manual shift
Again, as i understand it, this too is a bolt in swap. I have all same questions that I have regarding the transmission (just replace the word transmission with T-Case). Is there an easy way to tell by looking at the T-Case that it is a 1354 and not a 1350? I will be getting these parts from the junkyard and would like to avoid getting the wrong one.

I know that with the transmission I will have to do some wiring mods, so I can start and drive my X with the stock ECU. What type of wiring mods (if any) need to be done where the T-Case is concerned? Or can I just abandon the wiring for it? Have I forgotten anything that I should have asked?

I know that this has been a long winded post, but I like to be thorough, so I can have a lot of the variables out of the equation when getting help from others.

Thanks in advance to all.

EDIT: I have currently abandoned my plans for the V8 swap due to time and money, or should I say the lack of time and money...mostly money. I want to do the swap right, not just a hack job.

 

[91exploreron37]

As far the as the transmission is concerned they are all the same betwen those years, the only one that would be different is the one that was put behind the SOHC 4.0s.

The 1350 t-case has a slip yoke that the front driveshaft slides into unlike the 1354 which has a flange mount just like its electric counterpart.

In order for you truck to start with the manual trans you will need to bypass the neutral safety switch(Ill find out which wires they are in a min) and you will have to rewire your reverse lights to the manual trans(something I have yet to do since we dont have inspections). Also you will need to locate the wires that went to the shift solenoids and plug them with resistors(unsure of which ones but if you do a search I'm sure you'll find it, or you can just wait and find a manual ecu) so the computer still thinks the auto is there and wont throw a check engine light. This step isnt required to get the truck to start.

There really isnt any wiring that needs to be done to the manual just unplug the harness that went to the shift motor and leave it be, but if you want to you can find which wire controls the dash lights and hook it up to the wire on the manual case so when you're in 4hi and 4lo your indicator light will light up like normal. I dont know which wire(s) they are but maybe someone else knows.

EDIT: Alright about the computer you cant use the 91-92 model explorer computer because they dont have an egr setup and use only one O2 and I'm not sure if the ECU controls the abs as well but the 91-92 only have RABS and you have 4 wheel ABS.

In order to get the truck to start you have to splice these two wires together: red/lt blue striped wire and Pink and red/white striped wire.

The reverse lights will be black/purple and black/orange.

I copied this from another thread about the resistors:
For the resistors, just find the 3 wires that used to go to the solenoids.. There is a Red (common 12v) and I belive a purple and an orange wire..

You need to put a 33 ohm resistor (actually, something between 26 and 40 ohms) between the red and each of the other two wires.. The circuit will look like the letter Y, with the bottom leg going to the red and then a resistor to each other wire.. Or live with the cel until you find a manual ecu.

Heres a pic of the 1350 front output shaft:

Compared to the 1354's front output:

 

[pauley]

i may be selling a good a4ld in the future if you are intrested.

 

[seth247]

Automatic computers are programed to idle higher than manuals. Don't know if it will matter.

Send a pm to 91exploreron37 he has done the manual swap.

 

[91exploreron37]

Automatic computers are programed to idle higher than manuals. Don't know if it will matter.

Send a pm to 91exploreron37 he has done the manual swap.

They also say the timing is different between auto vs man but it has yet to be confirmed.
I ran my auto computer for a couple of week before I got the manual computer and I really could'nt tell a difference. Also first post is updated with new info and pics about the the t-case and trans swap wiring.

Oh yea and my pm's are full and I'm too lazy to delete the 70 messages it would take to get it back in order

 

[Michiganbear]

I have read someplace, that the engine that is mated to the manuals at the factory has a slightly different cam grind, to move the torque curve to fit the stick better.

 

[91exploreron37]

I have read someplace, that the engine that is mated to the manuals at the factory has a slightly different cam grind, to move the torque curve to fit the stick better.

Hmm it looks like your correct. I looked on autozones website and they list two different cams, one for an automatic trans and one for a manual trans.
I guess thats what they mean when they the "timing" is different beteween the two.
But alot of people of done the manual swap using the original "auto" cam without any problems.

 

[Michiganbear]

probably have. I heard its not much of a change, but it is different. I *think* the gave the stick cam more torque down low (it would make sense to me anyhow)

 

[geoph1986]

So the truck will idle a little faster with the stock cam & automatic ECU. That doesn't seem to be a big deal to me. But now after doing more reading, I don't know if the M5OD would be a step up in transmissions. It seems to be an ongoing debate as to whether the manual is any stronger than the automatic. Are both the A4LD & the M5OD crappy transmissions? If that's the case then why are some people converting to the manual trans? Is there any strong transmission that I could put behind the 4.0L, aside from building the "bulletproof" A4LD, or using adapter plates and shortening/lengthening driveshafts? With a 4 month old son, I currently don't have the money to go that route.
Thanks for the replies so far, they have been helpful.

EDIT: I know it's been asked before, why wouldn't a 5 speed from a 4.0 SOHC work? Or is it just too different, like bell housing bolt pattern and such.

 

[seth247]

I remember someone asking about bellhousing pattern differences between the OHV and SOHC.

They got a reply saying they were the same.

Which means you MAY be able to use a v6 mustang trans which is I think a t-5...maybe. Very stout.

 

[geoph1986]

I remember someone asking about bellhousing pattern differences between the OHV and SOHC.

They got a reply saying they were the same.

I read that I would need to use the starter from the donor. Something about my current starter using 2 bolts and the SOHC using 3 bolts. Also, apparently one of the bell housing bolts doesn't line up. Can anyone confirm this?

Which means you MAY be able to use a v6 mustang trans which is I think a t-5...maybe. Very stout.

The T-5 is a 2wd transmission, how would I make it work with the 4X4? Are the tail shafts interchangeable? What about driveshaft lengths?

 

[91exploreron37]

I thought the T-5 was cableoperated compared to the M5OD's hydraulic slave cylinder?
I'm pretty positive the SOHC starter only has two bolts just like the OHV.
I was going to recommend the 700R4 but that would require adapters.

 

[seth247]

And plus it's a.... chevy :cringe:

Hhhmmm what other 4x4s had a sohc?

 

[briwayjones]

You can use a manual transmission from a Ranger all the up to the current year.

 

[Blacksheep Josh]

Why you got to be hatin on Chevy's seth?!?!?! huh?!

The Explorer is the only Ford (other then a few ranger years), I care for. I'm lucky I got one, lol

 

[Maniak]

And plus it's a.... chevy :cringe:

Hhhmmm what other 4x4s had a sohc?

It may be a chevy, but its much cheaper to rebuild has a 3.06:1 1st gear and did not start out as the transmission in a pinto (a4ld life began there)

Yes, we have one and love it...

~Mark

 

[Pollarican]

Hey guys, right now I'm in the middle of the A4LD to M5OD swap and it wasn't too bad.

When it comes down to swapping the pedal assemblies, the best way I feel to do it is to unbolt the main wiring harness from the firewall (1 bolt holds it in the middle, I didn't know this when I did it), slide the Auto pedals toward the driver side fender, and slide the manual pedals back in. There is an E clip that holds the pedals to the bracket, and in order to slide it in you'll probably have to unbolt your E-Brake assembly and shimmy it out of the way for a brief period You DO NOT have to disconnect the E-Brake line, just unbolt the 3 main bolts that hold the assembly and push it out of the way to slide the pedals in.

On the wiring topic, this is the last piece I have left to deal with. If I have the proper Manual ECU, and lack the Manual Trans Harness, can I rig it to run without throwing a CEL? That would be fantastic as I am having a difficult time trying to track that down.

 

[Maniak]

As far as I know, the only cel you would get if you had the auto ecu was the TCC and the 3/4 solenoids would fail the self test.

If you have the manual ECU that issue will go away..

If you run the auto ECU you could just connect the old solenoids and tape them up out of the way. I've run 22 (I think 22) ohm resistors instead of the solenoids but over time they burn up (1/4 watt ones aren't big enough).. I don't get a CEL but I do get a stored code listed all the time, which is good for me as I know those are always there so when I decipher the codes I know which 2 should be there to verify I'm deciphering them correctly.

~Mark

 

[geoph1986]

Now, now lets not get into a pissing match as to which is better, Ford or Chevy. I've had Fords that weren't even worth their weight as scrap, and I've had Chevy's that were just as good as those Fords. Having said that, I did love my 1969 Camaro SS (it suffered a sad, sad death:roll, and I do love the 1952 Cadillac my mother-in-law gave me (don't get too exited, it's in barn find condition, and the barn was falling in). I also loved my 1986 Econoline. It was rust with grey spots, and it never left me walking. If I wanted to start swapping Chevy parts into a non GM, I would do the SBC in a Heep. Anyway...back on track.

Pollarican, thanks for the info.

You can use a manual transmission from a Ranger all the up to the current year.

OK, I just want to make sure I understand completely. I can grab any 5 Speed manual transmission from any Ranger, Mazda, or Explorer as long as it is 4X4 and has a 4.0L engine (OHV or SOHC), and everything will bolt in the stock locations...right?

So lets say I get the transmission from the latest generation of RBV's, these are all of the parts that I need, am I missing anything?

- 5 speed transmission
- clutch (I will buy new, unless the donor's is new.)
- flywheel (I will see what the condition of the donor is before buying new. I
think I need the 6 bolt one. Aside from bolt pattern, are they all the same?)
- slave (I will buy new, I don't want to mess around.)
- pedal assembly (Will the newer one bolt right in?, or should I just do what
Pollarican is doing and slide the new pedals on the existing bracket?)
- master cylinder & hydraulic lines
- shifter
- plug for reverse lights
- 5 speed ECU (Can I use a SOHC ECU for my OHV?)

Do I need to have a CPP or does splicing the automatic's NSS eliminate the need for it? I liked it on my older manuals, that if you stalled in traffic, you could use the starter to just limp you to the side of the road.

 

[Pollarican]

Geoph you will need a 93-94 Manual ECU. The earlier years had a differnt emissions setup, something I didn't realize until midway through the swap. I have a 1993 ECU for a manual I was planning on using, but got the proper one for my vehicle. I'd be willing to part with that If you have trouble finding the correct one.

One thing you will need that I can see you are missing on your list is a Manual Trans Starter. The auto and Manual have something like a 1/4" difference or something silly like that.

In terms of flywheel choice, It might cost about $50 to resurface, while at the same time, I got a brand new one at Napa for just over $70. I think this is one of the areas it is worthwhile to spend the little extra for piece of mind.

You will also need the steering column covers for a manual to replace where the auto shifter was, and the floorplate w/ cutout for the shifter. From the factory, the autos came with a sheetmetal floorplate which if you wanted to you could cut out and adapt as well.