M5OD Swap or Stick with A4LD? | Ford Explorer Forums - Serious Explorations

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M5OD Swap or Stick with A4LD?

HKUNZ

Well-Known Member
Joined
October 11, 2008
Messages
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City, State
Wilmington, NC
Year, Model & Trim Level
'93 XLT
My 1993 xlt has the A4LD transmission and I've just put my 4th flex plate in it. After the first start up, everything is normal except for the puddle of ATF that was accumulating underneath. It turns out at the torque converter seal has also blown out.

So after much frustration, and consideration, I can't seem to make a decision on whether or not I should put a new seal in the tranny (and throw in a shift kit) or swap in an M5OD?

My flex plates basically break around the bolt hub, and it's growing quite taxing to keep on replacing them. (On average of 1 flex plate every 8 months)

Thoughts?
 



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Well I'm having my M5OD rebuilt for the 3rd time in the past 12 months, so I wouldn't count on that to be any better. I tried to figure out an alternative transmission that would bolt to my engine (OHV V6), but haven't had any luck just from searching online. The best I could find was that an NV3550 from a late model TJ or a ZF-5 might work, but idk.
 






My 1993 xlt has the A4LD transmission and I've just put my 4th flex plate in it. After the first start up, everything is normal except for the puddle of ATF that was accumulating underneath. It turns out at the torque converter seal has also blown out.

So after much frustration, and consideration, I can't seem to make a decision on whether or not I should put a new seal in the tranny (and throw in a shift kit) or swap in an M5OD?

My flex plates basically break around the bolt hub, and it's growing quite taxing to keep on replacing them. (On average of 1 flex plate every 8 months)

Thoughts?

Well, throwing on an m5od will get rid of your flex plate but the real question is why are you breaking flex plates? This isn't a common issue on EF. The a4ld blowing internally is more of an issue and usually its because they overheat easily.

Normally the m50d has a better track record as they don't overheat but they still aren't the strongest transmission. From what I have seen over the years on here is that if you use your m5od as a truck and not a car the transmissions last. Its the hard shifting etc that seems to hurt the transmissions.

So, back to your original question.. Keep the a4ld or swtich??? Without knowing what is causing the flex plates to break its hard to know if throwing a manual trans in there will get its own issues. You might start to have issues with flywheels or clutches etc.

Another option (at least I still think its an option ) is to put in a 700r4. Advance adapters makes (or at least did make) an adapter kit to put a 60 degree v6 version of the 700r4 behind an 4.0 ohv. They also have the kit (and output shaft) to put the BW 1354 xfercase behind the 700r4.

I have well over 100k miles on my 700r4 and it was built incorrectly. My biggest issue has been keeping it cool since the torque converter I have in the truck is very loose with a flash stall of 2800 rpms. It makes for quick launches but unless the trans is in 4th with the converter locked it is pretty noisy especially with a very tight fan clutch.

Also, the 700r4 conversion will run you 2k or so if not a little more as you always end up with other little things you need. The m5od conversion can be done with just parts you grab from a donor vehicle.

~Mark
 






C5/6 will go behind it as well but your lose OD
 






I'd take the manual over the auto any day. Much better trans in this application IMHO. I have owed a few of both. Cheaper to fix as well.
Being your 4WD I'd just fix the auto & figure out why it's giving you problems.
 






It kinda sounds like you either have an engine balance issue. I used to work with a guy that had a car that did the same thing. Took it all apart and found one piston was bored .030 over and the rest were stock, did not run rough, but caused a power imbalance that kept cracking flex plates.

Could just be bad flex plates. They are so named because they flex with the convertor as it swells and contracts with heating up and cooling down. If the flex plate is an el cheapo, it might not be up to snuff with its needed "elasticity" to actually flex.

Also, now this is a stretch, but it might be a bad convertor. The convertor could be heating up too much and swelling more than can be compensated by the flex plate. Or it could have its own balance issue that is causing the flex plates to fail.

If you indeed have an engine balance issue, swapping over to a manual might only cause you to wear out clutches prematurely, or cause poor performance and other drivability issues. I would say first try and find out what is causing the flex plates to fail before you try to delve into a swap that may yield more problems. You might try putting a new seal and convertor in it and see what happens. The convertor was not that much the last time I replaced one, but that was a few years ago.
 






The history behind the vehicle is as follows:

My dad purchased it in 2002, and had a new transmission put in it about a year later, and had the torque converter rebuilt at the same time. (I was still in middle school at this time, so I don't know exactly what the issues were)

Whatever issues he had still persisted and had the transmission replaced again, and it solved the problem.

He gave it to my brother in 2004, and he drove it like it a jackass, and blew the torque converter seal, which forced him to park it. (The blow out happened about a mile from our house and we drove home with no issues and my dad parked it)

It sat until 2008 when I got my license and a good friend of my dad and I put the new seal in. And now I've broken 4 flex plates, and blew the seal again. (it sat for 8 months before I had the time to replace the plate, and it wasn't leaking fluid before)

It's always shifted fine up until about a month before the blow out, and it was hard to shift out of second gear before it was warmed up.
 


















I drive mine like I stole it. All is well.
 


















So I'm still trying to figure out what was causing my flex plates to break so often. I've done a fair amount of research and found that a possible cause of my headaches is the bell housing and the torque converter bushing are probably shot. The busing needs to be specially lathed into place, and the bell housing mating surface needs to be resurfaced and squared. Then it needs to be reinstalled using a Ford Special Tool, and then reassembled with the new pump seal.

Are there any write ups on this process at anybody can think of?
 












Swapped mine to a manual after I bought it with a bad auto trans. Although the M5R1 isn't much stronger, it's at least a little more reliable.
 






Me too!!! But my clutch and slave is going out now but its the OE at 130, 000 miles

Me too but I can tell mine will need some TLC soon...m5R1 here I come!
 






In May I had my A4LD rebuilt by a local shop after the same shop screwed the pouch on the first rebuild. I bought all my own parts making sure they were exactly what I wanted and needed for off road. I've been wheeling with it all spring and so far no issues. For starters I found an 94 A4LD, they had all the final upgrades to make them last longer, If you can find a 94 Aerostar, they had the maxi build A4LD. Secondly, I have two coolers, one on the radiator and one in the grill. I can Isolate the grill cooler so I'm not sucking any engine heat into the trans. I also fitted the grill cooler with it's own fan and thermostatic switch. And finally I fitted an external inline fluid filter that is good down to a few microns.

As far the your flex plate issue, I would see if you could have your trans line bored to be sure you're trans isn't somehow off center. Also check you motor and trans mounts, even a loose mount could be an issue.

By the way, if you have the coin, there are shops out there that build a (so called) bullet proof A4LD http://www.transmissioncenter.org/a4ld.htm

I hope this helps,

jager
 






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