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M90 rebuild (rudy)

well figured i would start a new thread.just a quick background.did the whole build on my explorer but built it using stock head gaskets and head bolts.did it really as a safety net and i just couldnt afford head studs at the time.well to say the least i blew the head gaskets off from it wile i was in the mountains on a forum trip about two years later.

i picked up a 1994 ranger,its got the 4.0 OHV and is a 5 speed 2wd.the plan is to pull the motor out of the explorer and rebuild it.

this thread will basically cover the rebuild and build up of the new ranger.it will basically end up as a street race truck.ive named it Rudy:D:D so let the fun begin.
:burnout::burnout::burnout::burnout::burnout::burnout::burnout::burnout::burnout::burnout::burnout:

UPDATE
new motor specs
BORE: 4" JE asymmetrical pistons (custom over bore)

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RODS: 6.058 Manley (longer rod)
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VALVES: IN-1.8 EX-1.5 Manley heavy duty (.150 over)
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Transmission:T5 hybrid from a 2006 Mustang and 93 Fox
HEADS: 93TM HEAVILY ported with custom brass guides and copper gaskets/O-ringed with ARP studs
CAM: 422 Comp cams with 988 springs and Toms custom lifters,push rods and 1.7 roller rockers
Complete blueprint and balanced internals
GM M90 supercharged with one 1" intercooler plates with ASP 8 rib belt conversion. .
pushing 16 lbs of boost with small shot of NOS
Running on E50
Dyno tuned by Dyno Tune Performance outa Virginia using SCT

old thread and pic
3800 M90 Build
ported and polished gm 3800 gen 2 m90
Water to air intercooled
port matched 76mm inlet and intake tube
mustang 75mm race tb
90mm maf
36lb injectors
255 fuel pump
sct 5bank dyno tuned
2.7" pulley 10lbs of boost!!;)
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and the new 1994 ranger 4.0 OHV 5 speed 2WD with 115,000 miles on it.o and i only paid $1,000 for it:shifty_ey
RUDY
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JD, you need to post how you wired the resistor and capacitor in the circuit.
Also, post the link to where you found the info.

It's rarely as simple as adding a capacitor and resistor in a higher current situation.
I'm guessing you have the capacitor and resistor all in parallel before the relay.

The idea is that when power is applied to the capacitor, it charges and the voltage rises to 13v flipping the relay. Then, when power is removed, the capacitor slowly discharges until voltage drops below the relay keying voltage.

It can get complicated since a relay can actually draw quite a bit of current (relatively speaking).

I basically have 12volts going to my fan sensor switch in my radiator when key turns on,then to a Bosch 75amp relay....i wired the resistor after the fan switch inline to relay..the ""positive "" of the capacitor is joined to the relay wire after the resistor, the negative side goes to ground..pic may help..i used a 10 kilo-ohm resistor and 1000 micro-farad 16v capacitor. .it seems to work when unplugged from relay (fan switch opens and voltage slowly goes to 12v) but once plugged the wire to relay the voltage dropps and doesnt go back up,nor kicks the relay on..fan switch is closed and gets 12v before resistor
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required solenoid current?

If the relay side of the resistor was shorted to ground the max current flowing thru the resistor would be:

I=E/R 12/10K = 1.2 ma

The relay solenoid is designed for a 12 volt drop but probably energizes at less. If the specified solenoid current is more than 1.2 ma it will never energize. I'm guessing it's at least 10 ma. If you lower the value of the resistor to achieve the required current then you will have to increase the value of the capacitor to maintain the desired delay. This is why there is normally a high impedance (low current draw) amplifier (solid state switch) to control the relay. The timing circuit is connected to the solid state switch input.

There are inexpensive programmable timer/switches that would be suitable for your application.
 






I dont really want to add any switches or adjustable timers though. .this system is bone basic and reliable. Dont need to turn on anything or worry about any complicated things breaking. .i carry a spare Bosch 75 amp relay and spare temp sensor in case either break..

I just wanna delay it some with bare basic items that i could carry spares or pick up cheap
 






simple & reliable

The simplest and most reliable method is a toggle switch to energize the relay solenoid. However, you will soon tire of having to disable the relay before ignition on and then enabling after engine start. Here's something that looks suitable, is probably made in China but available in the USA: 12V Power-ON Open Type Delay Timer Relay Module Delay Circuit Module
 






Hot in run only

If all you want to do is stop the fan from drawling current when cranking, you could look to see if there is a power circuit off the ignition switch that gets power in the run position and not the cranking position.
That's how some of the factory accessories are wired like maybe the blower fan.
 






Ignition Switch

This circuit would work, it is only powered in Run and Accessory.
 

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Connector view

Connector View
 

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This circuit would work, it is only powered in Run and Accessory.

I was thinking there had to be a circuit just didnt know which one or where to find it at.i assume this would be under dash
 






If all you want to do is stop the fan from drawling current when cranking, you could look to see if there is a power circuit off the ignition switch that gets power in the run position and not the cranking position.
That's how some of the factory accessories are wired like maybe the blower fan.

I think currently what im using as a switched power is the hot side of the fog light fuse in the fuse panel under the hood next to stock battery location on a 94 ranger.i dont have fog lights tho and assumed they wouldnt run wile cranking but was wrong..your on the right track though, i need to break out the book and dig.its really the right easiest way of doing it
 






Ok ok..i know i change my mind a million times but with some push from friends im gonna finish my motor!!! Easier to apologize than to ask for permission. ..

The bad..i took all my parts to the shop today to have him go ahead and finish the motor..he looks at me and says """ aww ****,i cant balance a V6.never even crossed my mind"" WHAT ARE YOU KIDDING ME!! So he has sent me to the only shop he knows of that can balance a V6.this shop is a private shop and 3 hours away.i called the guy and he said he can do it but normally doesnt do work for the public,only because im friends with Curtis from Magnum would he do it..

He is gonna narrow the big ends of my rods which he said is gonna be a challenge.he said he does the small ends all the time but big ends is gonna be different. .he quoted me $80 an hour for that and said he has no clue how long its gonna take..said once its setup it shouldnt take long but setting up probably is...

Next he is gonna balance the crankshaft after rods are done.he said i dont need the crank pulley or flywheel because its internally balanced. .he quoted me $250 for balancing. .

Last he is gonna sonic test the block to make sure it will handle the 4" bore. He didnt quote me a price for this and from the sounds he was just gonna do it for me BUT im sure it will end up at a cost of $80 an hour....also he doesnt have a jig to fit my block in his CNC machine to do the boring..


The heads are done but he didnt final assemble them yet...once i get the parts back from other guy,Curt will be boring the block,doing O-rings,making copper gaskets and final assembly. .hes quoted me around $700 for all his work including the heads..


God help me...thinking im making a bad choice but the button has been pressed and no turning back now..im driving tomorrow morning to drop the parts off to the balancer guy,said hes about 2 weeks booked so will be about 3 weeks till i get them back...mannnn the anticipation is going to kill me, or my pregnant girlfriend:dead::dead::dead::frustrate:frustrate:frustrate:banghead::banghead:
 






Engine

I would love to see this engine get built, and your truck get finished. You have done some really cool work to it. It would be a shame to see all this work just stop and never be completed.

Maybe your girl was telling you not to have your engine built so she could have it done for you as a surprise?
 






I would love to see this engine get built, and your truck get finished. You have done some really cool work to it. It would be a shame to see all this work just stop and never be completed.

Maybe your girl was telling you not to have your engine built so she could have it done for you as a surprise?

Haha she's crazy but not that crazy. .my thoughts were that being my guy could do it all there and its only 3 more things,it wasnt going to be much more..but thats not the case and im all in now..i want to get it done,its been too long..we shall see how it goes tomorrow
 












i a very, very, very, VERY wise man must have told you that!

Ill be sending that pissed girlfriend to that very wise mans house if she finds out!!lol hey she surprised me with the whole ""im pregnant "" thing so guess what,i got a surprise for her:shifty_ey
 






Just a little update on my ohv block..i sonic tested it today..it has 3 spots that are pretty thin..one is on the driverside near the very bottom of the first cylinder measuring .193 the other 2 are on the passengers side about 3" from top of cylinder 1 and 2, on inner or near the lifters,these spot are in a non main thrust side and measures .183 all main thrust sides are well over .240 some even thicker.i asked my guy about the minimum standard and he did confirm that .200 for main thrust is the standard but has seen many at .170 for main thrust and .125 non thrust ,without issues. .he said the amount of boost i plan to run (16psi) isnt considered to be alot in the performance world and feels that a 90tm block ""should"" hold a 4" bore without issues. .

He also didnt charge for the testing.he is not happy about having to narrow the rods at all,he said "" he does private builds for this exact reason,doesnt like cluster ####s"" ..he feels there is gonna be issues with the bearings and feels it might be easier to try and use 4.0 rod bearings in my manley xr6 rods..he said he would let me know..

Going to take the block over tomorrow back to my guy to get over bored and grooved for O-rings
 






Well ran into some bearing issues. .the bearings for the xr6 rods are thicker by .0018 so the crank will need to be turned some..also the 4.0 bearings wont fit in the xr6 rods so he is gonna have to find a way to SLIGHTLY narrow the bearing also..

man these rods have turned into alot of work,this adds another cost into the machining that i didnt plan on.think we are gonna run some tighter oil clearance specs on these bearings as ill be running thinner full synthetic oil,might also help get more psi up to top of motor....might have been best to have a custom set made that used the stock 4.0 bearings...
 












And a custom aluminum block and heads. I mean, arent you going all out on this? Slacker

hahahaha.
Nothing like kicking a guy when he's down. I bet JD's eye's were bleeding after today's news.
 






hahahaha.
Nothing like kicking a guy when he's down. I bet JD's eye's were bleeding after today's news.

Yes..and bad part is the crank wont fit in his machine to be turned down..so now i can either ship the crank and rods back to my guy or drive 3 hours each way to pick it up..then once turned down drive 3 hours each way to take it back to him to balance. .gonna see if he can balance it in one day,hate to drop it off drive back then next day drive back to pick it up..its only costing me about $23 in gss in my Lexus to drive there and back...i dont know if i trust shipping over $3k in parts back and forth with a 50lb crank in same box..this definitely wasnt in my budget. .!!!!

Got a feeling im gonna be tired up with a thousand dollar bill with my guy alone,balance is $250 plus $80 an hour to turn rods..may end up with a thousand dollar tab at his shop too...cant do nothing but bend over and take it at this point..im guessing 4 hours..im thinking like first guess, around $1500 when its all said and done including my copper gaskets :mad::mad:
 



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build a custom motor they said. it will be easy they said!
who was the dumb ass that egged you on in the first place to get all this done now? he deserves a shot to the nuts...
 






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