M90 rebuild (rudy)

well figured i would start a new thread.just a quick background.did the whole build on my explorer but built it using stock head gaskets and head bolts.did it really as a safety net and i just couldnt afford head studs at the time.well to say the least i blew the head gaskets off from it wile i was in the mountains on a forum trip about two years later.

i picked up a 1994 ranger,its got the 4.0 OHV and is a 5 speed 2wd.the plan is to pull the motor out of the explorer and rebuild it.

this thread will basically cover the rebuild and build up of the new ranger.it will basically end up as a street race truck.ive named it Rudy so let the fun begin.


UPDATE
new motor specs
BORE: 4" JE asymmetrical pistons (custom over bore)

RODS: 6.058 Manley (longer rod)

VALVES: IN-1.8 EX-1.5 Manley heavy duty (.150 over)

Transmission:T5 hybrid from a 2006 Mustang and 93 Fox
HEADS: 93TM HEAVILY ported with custom brass guides and copper gaskets/O-ringed with ARP studs
CAM: 422 Comp cams with 988 springs and Toms custom lifters,push rods and 1.7 roller rockers
Complete blueprint and balanced internals
GM M90 supercharged with one 1" intercooler plates with ASP 8 rib belt conversion. .
pushing 16 lbs of boost with small shot of NOS
Running on E50
Dyno tuned by Dyno Tune Performance outa Virginia using SCT

old thread and pic
3800 M90 Build
ported and polished gm 3800 gen 2 m90
Water to air intercooled
port matched 76mm inlet and intake tube
mustang 75mm race tb
90mm maf
36lb injectors
255 fuel pump
sct 5bank dyno tuned
2.7" pulley 10lbs of boost!!

and the new 1994 ranger 4.0 OHV 5 speed 2WD with 115,000 miles on it.o and i only paid $1,000 for it:shifty_ey
RUDY

 

[jd4242]

Sooo apparently i have a ground issue. .when i moved my battery inside behind the seat,i ground it to the frame right under it,then grounded the motor to frame..haven't had any issues so far..

Well today i installed my purge system and i took the purge valve ground and grounded it to same spot as my nitrous solenoid..WELLLLL big mistake. .i have two master arm switches that have blue leds in them and they light up when the solenoids get power..

I flipped my purge valve on and hit the button. .TWO LARGE PPPPOOOFFFFFFSSS and BOTH leds lit up!!!!
THANK GOD THE MOTOR WASNT RUNNING. .both solenoids had activated. .

After hours of digging and countless calls to NX we come up with,the body of the truck isnt grounded well enough to the frame..once you activate either solenoid it back feeds up the other solenoids ground,thus activating it..i temporarily ran wires independently to the battery and it worked fine..

Went and got rectifier diodes that im going to install on each solenoids ground to make sure it doesnt happen again.also guess im going to try and ground the body to the frame better also

Nitrous express said this is the first time they have heard of this and have installed both purge and nitrous solenoids grounds together many times and never had a issue. .they do say they under why and how it happened though. .said they are going to edit their install instructions to say "independent grounds"..

Just reminds you how serious you should take things.. things could have gone very very bad if the truck was running


Here is some pictures of the purge valve installed.ive changed every fitting in this to work better with location, fyi .ill get a video of it purging tomorrow once i rewire the grounds. .

 

[jd4242]

Got it all fixed and added the diods as safety mechanisms..yea its ricey but its flippn AWESOME! !
[Youtube]TPA3cGujTmY[/media]

 

[jd4242]

Got to the junk yard today and grabbed some "Uscar" injector connectors or better known as Ev6 or Ev14..took and cut up my wiring harness to solder the new connectors in..

Used "thick wall" heat shrink around each wire then put a larger piece around both wires..lastly i wrapped everything in new tape..

I have a dyno appt on monday at 2:30...gonna see what this motor can do to compare it to new one,see if new one was worth all the cost!! Im guessing this motor will do in the low 300s ..310-320 is my guess. .

Grabbed from i believe a Taurus. .

Warapped everything but the injector wires for this picture, i did go back and wrap them afterwards. .

 

[4pointslow]

Dyno

Very exciting to see this engine build and all the go fast goodies!
Before and after dyno runs is a good idea, will you be getting it tuned off this engine first then the new engine?
Would the 310-320 estimate be crank or wheel HP?

 

[jd4242]

Very exciting to see this engine build and all the go fast goodies!
Before and after dyno runs is a good idea, will you be getting it tuned off this engine first then the new engine?
Would the 310-320 estimate be crank or wheel HP?

This is the same motor that has been tuned..ill use these tunes for new motor to break it in but will be having a dyno tune adjust made after broke in.

310-320 should be to ground..i did 210ish in the big truck with this motor but the 4x4 auto trans,big ass tires,big ass gears and my alternater blowing up causing my IC pump and fans to stop,all robbed HP..

With everything working proper i will get a real view of what this motor does,especially in a 2wd vehicle with small light tires..also going to spray this time,love to see 350-375 on one kit

 

[jd4242]

Well didn't make it to the dyno..my tuner said he copied my tunes but just changed injector size to 78lbs and wrote me a E50 tune.....

welllllll the 93 tune was super lean so i tried the E50 tune..i mixed my own E50 fuel from the pump E85(which tested out to be E80) and mixed it with 100 octane race gasoline. .i nailded it the first time right at E50..

Bad news though, the E50 tune was super lean and having issues starting. .he is booked for next month on doing a dyno tune so we worked back and forth doing videos of idle,2,000 rpms,cruise and wot pulls..took him 2 different times adjusting the tune but hes got it all very close..he still needs to adjust the "start up fuel" and add a bunch of timing but this tune is safe to run and break in my new motor..

Im really glad i decided to throw the charger back on because with the new motor it would have been WAYYYY to lean to even break the new motor in..once new motor is FINALLY done ill book a dyno day to finalize the tunes..im still waiting on the copper gaskets to get made..my T5 is done and built though. .

But all and all this thing is freaking scary fast,definitely feels like it can can have a ton more timing added.just feels like it could scream a little harder or faster..1st and 2nd gear is pretty worthless if the tires arnt warm and 3rd will even break loose if i hit any bumps doing a pull..haven't sprayed it at all yet..

Dyno appt is Tuesday, dont expect it to do as much as was thinking because hes running a really safe timing package..i didnt want him getting to ballsy with this tune as im gonna use it to break in new motor..

Pump E85 (Tested E80) and my E50 race mix

 

[jd4242]

Ooo and found out there is NO WAY ill clear 2 intercoolers. .it hits the top of the firewall and hits the hood in 2 different spots..soooo ill be running only 1 which should be fine with E50..ill also be pulling the 1" hockey pucks back out to lower the body back down an 1"...not happy about it but not adding any more height to clear a second IC...

 

[Dono]

Nice to see the SC back on there.
Are the roller rockers on also?

Congratulations!!

 

[jd4242]

Nice to see the SC back on there.
Are the roller rockers on also?

Congratulations!!

No matter of fact,i haven't heard from Tom in awile.he said 2 weeks to make them,plus shipping..hes already charged me so they should be shipping soon..ill call tomorrow. .

Yes its nice to have it back,the throttle cable is getting hung up for some reason.its wayyy to long for starters but didnt have that problem before..its sticking at closed throttle,you gota give it a hard tap to free it.that hard tap equals tire spin tho

 

[Dono]

sticking at closed throttle,you gotta give it a hard tap to free it.that hard tap equals tire spin tho

LOL. This is small stuff. You will get it sorted out.

So, are the heads going to have to come off again to get them machined for the rockers and springs?

 

[jd4242]

LOL. This is small stuff. You will get it sorted out.

So, are the heads going to have to come off again to get them machined for the rockers and springs?

No this is my old motor outa the explorer still...the new motor is still at the machine shop..heads and block are done,heads are machined for the springs according to the 1.7 specs..no other machining is needed to run the rockers.

Heads also been machined to take a O-ring...just waiting on the copper gaskets to be made

 

[jd4242]

Sooo took the truck out to make some hits and test the nitrous. .only sprayed in 3rd gear but HOLLLY CRAP...

THENNNN right after on my way back to my shop i pull up behind a Z06 C5 corvette. ..YEP ITS ON!!!! next light we got side by side and light turned green..didnt have time to warm the tires and we was not in a spot to be really doing so...he beat me outa the hole pretty bad BUTTTTT my truck hooked in 2nd and i sprayed the NOS..shifted to 3rd/sprayed and closed the gap..by end of 4th i had pulled a fender ahead and he let off!! WWWOWOWOOOOOOOOOOHHHHOOOO ILL TAKE THAT!!!

we get to next light and i pick my camera up which i thought was on,nope it was off..turn it on and record our convo...hes like ""MAN I SAW YOU IN THE REAR VIEW AND THOUGHT I HAD YOU"" ""THEN HEARD SOMETHING AND YOU WAS RIGHT NEXT TO ME"" bahahahahah asked what he had and of course he said "stock"" then i told him i had "just a v6"" he said ""your full of ****,it sounds beast"" i then told him what i had and he laughed and light turned green..hahaha

Thats one for FORD and 0 for LS!!o and only spraying a 35 shot fyi!!!:mattmoon::mattmoon:

 

[jd4242]

$425 later my trans is done..im not happy it costed so much but whatever at this point..
4.0 OHV /SOHC T5

 

[Dono]

I think you made out great at $425.00.
How are you going to get the power of the new motor to the ground? Sounds like you are going to have to work at traction some more.

 

[jd4242]

I think you made out great at $425.00.
How are you going to get the power of the new motor to the ground? Sounds like you are going to have to work at traction some more.

$425 was just his labor for 5 hours.thats it

Im sending 2 rims off to weldcraft to be widened. .i have those 305s for now(post 633 ) but getting M/T drag radial SS 345s..if they dont stick at over 14" wide ill have serious issues

O ps talked to Tom today..hes changed the design of the rockers some to add extra support. He will be shipping next week

 

[jd4242]

Fixed my throttle sticking closed problem. It just was at a crazy angle before.made a new bracket and ran the cable a little different so its not binding..

 

[Dono]

I'm super impressed. Looks great.
What did you use For a bending the metal? It looks like a pretty heavy gauge.

 

[4pointslow]

motor mount

Be careful, with it wrapped around the master cylinder if you break a motor mount it might pull the throttle wide open.

 

[jd4242]

I'm super impressed. Looks great.
What did you use For a bending the metal? It looks like a pretty heavy gauge.

Its aluminum. .we have presses at work,

Be careful, with it wrapped around the master cylinder if you break a motor mount it might pull the throttle wide open.

It makes a BIG loop around the master,plenty of slack in it..why it so easy to pull now and i moved where it attached to the tb farther out so has more leverage. .

I have solid motor mounts and if they did break it would never move enough to take all the slack out the throttle cable..also having both sides solid and trans mounted solid, i think atleast 2 would have to break or all 3 before the motor would twist or turn

 

[jd4242]

Rescheduled my dyno pulls..we think its best to bring the truck into him to adjust the tune then do some dyno pulls..

I want this tune to be more accurate and it definitely can take a butt load more timing now that im running E50..closer i can get this tune the better it will run with new motor is my thinking. .