Mach audio system amp | Ford Explorer Forums - Serious Explorations

  • Register Today It's free!

Mach audio system amp

biggum_rsb4x4

New Member
Joined
January 17, 2010
Messages
7
Reaction score
0
City, State
Jacksonville, Fla
Year, Model & Trim Level
98 Eddie Bauer
I have a 98 Explorer EB that has the mach audio system in it. It's a work-in-progress mud/trail truck. So the audio system is fine for me but I dont want the sub so im takin it out, im actually rippin out the entire cargo area to make a on-the-trail repair shop. My gf wants a small sub in her Ranger so I was wonderin...if I take the sub and amp and jus wire the inputs for it to one of the stock speaker inputs (I lose a speaker but gain an amp and who cares in a mud truck) will it work?? and where should I wire the +/- wires to? a buddy said I could jus use a small 12v battery (like a jet-ski battery), is this true? Any help would be great, hoping to have everything finished by June before I go to work in Ocala for the Wildlife Commission, lot of great trails thr.
 



Join the Elite Explorers for $20 each year.
Elite Explorer members see no advertisements, no banner ads, no double underlined links,.
Add an avatar, upload photo attachments, and more!
.





I have a 98 Explorer EB that has the mach audio system in it. It's a work-in-progress mud/trail truck. So the audio system is fine for me but I dont want the sub so im takin it out, im actually rippin out the entire cargo area to make a on-the-trail repair shop. My gf wants a small sub in her Ranger so I was wonderin...if I take the sub and amp and jus wire the inputs for it to one of the stock speaker inputs (I lose a speaker but gain an amp and who cares in a mud truck) will it work?? and where should I wire the +/- wires to? a buddy said I could jus use a small 12v battery (like a jet-ski battery), is this true? Any help would be great, hoping to have everything finished by June before I go to work in Ocala for the Wildlife Commission, lot of great trails thr.

I wouldn't really rely on that plan you have drawn up, but then again I'm not totally positive.. I'm actually in the process of bypassing a stock amp in a 97, and I've wondered about the whole wiring scheme.. I know that it gets a connection from the deck in a 97 at least, but it's not like a typical aftermarket amp, where you have a thick power line coming directly from the battery.. For you to try and accomplish what you're thinking, at the very least you'd need a schematic type diagram of the connections coming into the stock amp... You can't just basically draw up a connection from an external battery, although it would eventually be possible if you knew the specifics of it, and did it properly.. good luck
 






Its not a typical amp that has a +12v, Ground, Rem, Inputs and Outputs, theyre all just connectors, and if you figure out which wire is what, then you'd be good probably, but why would you use a jet ski battery? How are you gonna keep it charged? Why not just run wire back there, or even look into buying a small bazooka tube (Pre-ampped, just gotta EASILY wire it up)
 






I was just thinking of throwin it into my gf's truck. Thr both mud trucks so thrs no reason to spend the money on a bazooka tube but I already hav a sub so I thought i'd rig the amp up to it. Jus to give her a lil boom. I have the schematic for which wire is +, - and the rest of the wires. So you think if I jus ran the + and - to a hot wire source that'd work for power? and what about the inputs, I thought i'd use one of the rear speaker wires and get a converter that the audio shop down the street sell (it take the highs and mids out and only lets the lows pass through).
 






Ok so I stopped by the audio shop my buddy Jeff owns and talked to one of his tech's, DB Link makes an install kit that will let me do what I want. I run the + wire from the battery to the amp then run the ground to the nearest point I can find (dont kno whr yet). Then use the wires from one of the rear speakers for my inputs. Stock Explorer amps already have the high-low converter in them. Then the Remote wire jus runs to the back of the radio and wires into the stock harness. Easy-peasy.
 






So you think if I jus ran the + and - to a hot wire source that'd work for power?

No, the + and - is the L and R audio channels lol. That would probably fry it immediately, although I never heard of anyone doing it. You need to find out which wires are the power and ground to do what you're thinking. I'd proceed with caution tho and get some more input, lol.
 






No, the + and - is the L and R audio channels lol. That would probably fry it immediately, although I never heard of anyone doing it. You need to find out which wires are the power and ground to do what you're thinking. I'd proceed with caution tho and get some more input, lol.

Ive already found out which are the inputs, +, -, and remote wire. I got schooled at my buddies audio shop (check earlier post).
 






Ive already found out which are the inputs, +, -, and remote wire. I got schooled at my buddies audio shop (check earlier post).

oh ok. well that's good you found out what needs to be done instead of experimenting, ha.
 






Ya, ive had some bad experiences experimenting with other vehicles ive had, so now I research the hell out of stuff I dont kno about. Now im tryin to figure out how to remove the dome light cover in my neighbors crown vic. She's like 70 and her light burned out and she has a hard time seeing to get in at night so im tryin to fix it for her.
 












Ya lol, well I grew up doing engine and suspension work. So anything along those lines im fine with. Its the interior and exterior customizing (i.e.-subwoofers, lights, etc.) that I have trouble with. Althout thanks to the internet I did get some sick lookin blue leds installed below the dash so it adds a wicked glow.
 






Ok so quick update, if you want to take the amp from the X and use it in another car here's what you gotta know:
1. Amp already has crossover do-hicky bult in so it will remove the highs and mids if your using the wires from your rear speakers (mine went into another mud truck so I jus sacrificed my rear speakers)
2. One set of speaker wires will work but if you can get input from both sides it sounds ALOT better. Idk why.
3. All you need is an amp install kit, I picked one up from the local audio shop for about $8.
4. IT IS possible to make the sub transferrable between the factory X and whatever you transferred the amp into. (Ill do a write up on it later)
5. DONT, DO NOT, forget about the remote start wire that runs to the amp, wether you run it to a simple on-off switch or to the back of the radio (whr it is suppose to go) without it, nothing happens becaus the amp does not know when to turn on.

Any questions, PM me (you'll get a faster response)
 






Back
Top