major maintenance being done this weekend..anything I should know?

[97exploder19]

This weekend im going to get all this maintenance finished before the snow starts flying here. The truck is a 99 Limited 5.0 with 140k. The list below is what I plan on doing. Ive read and researched about everything, but wanted to ask if theres anything I might need to plan for.

so..the list.

shocks all around and quad shock
wheel hubs
inner/outer tie rods
fuel filter
pcv valve and grommet
trans filter and new fluid
T-case fluid
radiator hoses, bypass hose, thermostat, coolant flush
spark plugs (kinda afraid of doing this and breaking them off in the head) The PO said the plugs have been done before but I cannot confirm.

 

[RomeovilleIL]

Replace the upper and lower ball joints and sway bar end links while you have it all apart. Will make a substantial difference in driveability and safety. If still on the original plug wire should replace those with the plugs. Only use standard Autolite or Motorcraft plugs. Splitfire and other gimmick plugs will result in weird issues and make the truck run like poo.

There are plenty of horror stories on spark plug replacement but honestly havent encountered any problems with 5.0's myself. Spray some WD40 or other penetrating oil around the base of the plugs once a day for a couple days before attempting removal. Take off the splash sheilds and work from the wheel wells will a long extension so you have a straight shot at them. If one feels stuck, use an impact instead of a breaker bar. If no impact, tap the wrench handle with a hammer. The vibration is much more likely to free it while high torque will just bust them off. For the plugs with the metal cylinders around them, those cylinders are just press fit and can be pulled/wiggled out so the spark plug socket will fit.

 

[97exploder19]

Ball joints were done as well I believe within the past two years. I bought the car from a good friends parent's and they've mentioned those being done before. The end links however are still original.

The plugs I purchased are Autolite AP104's.

 

[jeff84]

you will need an alignment after the tie rods are done. not sure if you knew that. and i use ngk platinum plugs. never had a problem. just dont ever use bosch plugs. and if your worried about the plugs you could pull a couple and post picks. some of us on here will be able to tell you if they need doing or not.

 

[drdoom]

I suggest checking out the transfer case vent tube. Older models came with a vent nipple and not tube, notorious for taking in water and destroying the front output bearing. Just make sure it has a rubber hose to a higher location. Best wishes.

 

[crunchie_frog]

You might want to consider a drain plug for the trans if you are planning on keeping it a while. It makes dropping the pan the next time easier and less fluid mess. I guess you are planning on draining the torque converter as we'll? About 13 qts of mercon v are needed for complete change.

 

[97exploder19]

I plan on keeping it as long as she's driving. This is in my winter/ bad weather DD.

The truck does need an alignment already (steering wheel is slightly crooked driving straight)

Yes, draining the TC too. Ive got 12 quarts of Castrol transmax Mercon V. Ill pick up another three to do the T-case and an extra for the trans.

 

[crunchie_frog]

Transfer case uses regular Mercon and less than 2 qts, cheaper. Vacuum pump makes this job easier. How does your brake fluid look? If it hasn't been done in a while that would be on my list.

 

[97exploder19]

Transfer case uses regular Mercon and less than 2 qts, cheaper. Vacuum pump makes this job easier. How does your brake fluid look? If it hasn't been done in a while that would be on my list.

Yes! brake fluid flush. Forgot to add that to the list. It needs it badly.

 

[bill06447]

I don't know where your from, but rust belt trucks will most likely necessitate sawing off the top fasteners on the shocks. Fronts are easy enough, rear shocks, not so much...

Bill

 

[delexploder]

I don't know where your from, but rust belt trucks will most likely necessitate sawing off the top fasteners on the shocks. Fronts are easy enough, rear shocks, not so much...

Bill

In the shops around here we use an impact with a long extension and push hard to one side when you pull the trigger , instant snap , quick and easy

 

[bill06447]

In the shops around here we use an impact with a long extension and push hard to one side when you pull the trigger , instant snap , quick and easy

Fronts I used a Sawzall took all of 8 seconds a side. No clue how to reach the top bolts on the rears with an impact; the part facing down (on the factory shocks on my 97 anyways) don't have a head as they are studs integral with the shock. I'm thinking of picking up a cheapie nut splitter for that job.

Bill

 

[biff9703]

I would also suggest replacing the rear diff oil. Don't forget to use either limited slip oil or add the tube of friction modifier since you most likely have a limited slip.

 

[97exploder19]

Little update..

Went to my step dad's shop today to use his lift. Only worked for about 6 hours, but my buddy and I got a good amount done. Shocks and quad shock, wheel hubs, trans fluid and filter, T-case, and engine oil and filter change.

Could have stayed longer and finished most of the stuff I had to do, but we decided to call it quits. Suprising all the bolts and nuts holding everything on werent too bad. We had to cut off the top of the front drivers shock due to the nut binding up. Other than that, everything went okay for never being touched.

Ill finish everything else next week and I plan on doing the diff fluids as well!

 

[crunchie_frog]

Nice work...from my experience, these 5.0s respond well to a little TLC.