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Manual hard to shift

Occ

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So I've got a 94 Ranger 4.0 OHV with the 5 speed manual transmission. Recently it has been kind of difficult to shift. Sometimes everything will shift smoothly, other times it can be difficult. 1st, 2nd, and Reverse are the hardest to get into, generally, requiring what seems like a lot of force to go in. But it does go in and doesn't grind. With the truck off it goes around smoothly, and if I double clutch it seems smooth. It also seems to work smoothly if I do the following:

Depress Clutch
Move shifter -> resists going into gear
Foot off clutch, then depress again -> smoothly slips into gear

So I've been using this double pump clutch method, but was thinking I should try bleeding the clutch. Any other thoughts of what could cause this behavior?
 
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Jason94sport

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Slave cylinder is going. You can try to bleed it with new fluid. Sometimes it helps. Get a FORD slave as they are the most reliable.
 
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jd4242

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Mine just started doing this as well!!! Does it more often when its hot also:(
 
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IAmTodd

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Mine takes a little while to spin down before going into first and it will grind going into reverse. A couple second with the clutch in and it's smooth as butter.
 
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jd4242

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I don't have any grinding just hard to get in from a stop wile hot.probably just low on fluid..maybe I should check that.. :( lol
 
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IAmTodd

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Mine's always been that way. Synchro looked good so I'm not sure what it's issue is. Just one of those things that I've adapted to.
 
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jd4242

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Mine's always been that way. Synchro looked good so I'm not sure what it's issue is. Just one of those things that I've adapted to.

You running atf in it?
 
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IAmTodd

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Yup. Can't say what was in it the first 220k of its life though. Currently have half a bottle of Lucas in it, going to put the rest in tonight and drain out the extra. It's helping with the rattles so far.
 
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Occ

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Slave cylinder is going. You can try to bleed it with new fluid. Sometimes it helps. Get a FORD slave as they are the most reliable.

Well that's annoying, looks like the slave cylinder sucks to replace as well. Any recommended reading for this?
 
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Anime

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Sometimes it's the slave cylinder, especially if it's got the mileage on it. The OEM Ford slave cylinders can last 60-80K or so, aftermarket ones last less, sometimes only 50K if that before they start to go.

Before replacing the slave though, you can bleed the system, doing it over a period of days, bleeding for a few times, then driving a few days, then bleeding it again, then driving, etc. Just a small bit of air bubbles that might come out can cause that problem where the clutch doesn't fully release even when the pedal is at the position where it should.

Sometimes bleeding is just a temporary fix and the slave is leaky, and so it's letting air in, in addition to leaking fluid out. Dropping the tranny to replace just the slave so it's a good time to replace the clutch, pressure plate, and even the flywheel if need be, along with any drivetrain or exhaust work.
 
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Occ

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Alright, thanks for the advice, I'll have to get on that when I have some garage time. In the meantime I'll ride my motorcycle a bit more!

One other oddity I've noticed: the system will shift easily if I put the 4wd selector stick into neutral, then back into 2wd. This won't always do the trick, but does seem to work. And then over a couple days it becomes harder again.
 
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cmhaah06

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I recently started noticing a similar issue with my trans. Only happens in first gear for me. Not to hijack your thread but, every once and a while after I get it into first and start to drive the truck from a stop, I will feel something like a forward thrusting motion, almost like the clutch isnt fully engaged or is slipping and then catches and moves along with no further issues. It only happens every once and a while not every stop. Is the clutch done?
 
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OneofMany

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Also check your mechanism for lack of lubrication. spraying lithium grease on the clutch fork, bearings etc may help. Theres no external return spring like on the OLD fords is there?
A good habit to get into is to downshift into 1st as you are coming to a stop. Try it. You have to be going very slow tho. same for reverse. Otherwise you may have to wait 1-2 secs for the trans to stop as you have no clutch brake.
 
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mr cribb

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There's a forum member by the screen name of fordsvtparts he is a vendor, and works in a ford parts department in Minnesota. He gives forum members his employee pricing. So if you go this route be sure to mention the forum ;).

I contacted him, and got a factory ford slave for $140 shipped. It was $190-210 locally through Ford.

What I also did was replace the clutch at the same time (reason for the teardown), and got a "HD" unit from ebay for $75 shipped (I haggled). The pressure plate is definitely stiffer and has held up to my abuse of 25k miles (lots of stop and go, and heavy towing). Stop and go was city pizza delivery, and trailer loads of used tires.
 
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jd4242

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There's a forum member by the screen name of fordsvtparts he is a vendor, and works in a ford parts department in Minnesota. He gives forum members his employee pricing. So if you go this route be sure to mention the forum ;).

I contacted him, and got a factory ford slave for $140 shipped. It was $190-210 locally through Ford.

What I also did was replace the clutch at the same time (reason for the teardown), and got a "HD" unit from ebay for $75 shipped (I haggled). The pressure plate is definitely stiffer and has held up to my abuse of 25k miles (lots of stop and go, and heavy towing). Stop and go was city pizza delivery, and trailer loads of used tires.

O my lord!!:(I had no clue slaves were that much!! I haven't priced them yet but know my clutch is going to run me about $400:eek:
 
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mr cribb

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O my lord!!:(I had no clue slaves were that much!! I haven't priced them yet but know my clutch is going to run me about $400:eek:

I am pretty sure my clutch setup would hold up to your s/c. The sucker makes your left leg cramp up until you get used to it.

I could part with mine since I will be going to a v8.... just not looking forward to laying on the ground to pull it. LMK if you're interested.... it's certainly not $400... lol
 
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jd4242

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I am pretty sure my clutch setup would hold up to your s/c. The sucker makes your left leg cramp up until you get used to it.

I could part with mine since I will be going to a v8.... just not looking forward to laying on the ground to pull it. LMK if you're interested.... it's certainly not $400... lol

Yea I need atleast a stage 3, need something that handles in the 400tq range.the hd versions only handle in the 200 range, I'd smoke that in a week or two.:burnout:
 
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malohnes

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JD, what options for clutch packs are you looking at then? Our trucks don't have high power alternatives.

I found a Centerforce II that is supposed to handle 2x stock power. Luk supposedly has a stout one as well. I'll most likely go that route when I pick up the stronger M05HDR1 later this summer. Next summer I'll take care of the engine mods and FI.
 
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jd4242

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JD, what options for clutch packs are you looking at then? Our trucks don't have high power alternatives.

I found a Centerforce II that is supposed to handle 2x stock power. Luk supposedly has a stout one as well. I'll most likely go that route when I pick up the stronger M05HDR1 later this summer. Next summer I'll take care of the engine mods and FI.

Sure there is.spec makes clutches all the way up to a stage 5 and are made in the USA:usa:.I'm going with the stage 3+:D
http://www.specclutchsuperstore.com/ford-ranger-19931997-c-302_311_630_2331.html
 
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jd4242

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You can just add the parts for the HD model to what you have.most rebuild kits come with them anyways. What I'm looking for is a company that can make my flywheel into a lightweight version.
 
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