Master / Slave Cylinder Connections??

[Freshmeat]

I'll be swapping my A4LD for a M5OD on Saturday. Is there a tool I need to connect the line to the master and slave cylinders? Didn't look like a standard fitting to me.

Thanks, guys!

 

[Tshark299]

Not sure about the master, but on the slave you don't need a special tool to attach the line to the cylinder. They just push together and lock. There is a special tool that makes it easier to get them apart though.

 

[Freshmeat]

Thanks, man. I'll have to get out there and see if I can do it before I start the swap. I want to make sure we don't have any hang-ups, since I'll be having buddies helping me out.

 

[Anime]

You'll definitely want the disconnect tool in case you need to yank the connector to reposition or redo the master cyl.

You might want to pull the shifter and replace the bushings, and do the fluid change with the new tranny off the truck. Great time to do a rear main shim/seal R&R too, and the fuel filter as well.

 

[Freshmeat]

Do I need to bench bleed the master and/or slave cylinder before installing?

I'm not TOO worried about the rear main, as the motor only has 50k on it since a complete reman process. However, if it does look compromised in the least I plan to do the swap.

The shifter felt really solid, surprisingly. Then again, my 230k Ranger I was driving may have desensitized me to firm shifts!

 

[Anime]

You'll want to bench bleed the master, but the slave should come ready to connect and bleed after the system is installed and connected. Don't panic if it takes awhile to get any clutch pedal pressure, sometimes it takes awhile. Bleeding it right the first time until there are no air bubbles saves a lot of clutch hassles down the road.

Are you installing a new master/slave or plan on using what it comes with?

As a longtime M5OD owner, I strongly suggest putting in a new, factory Motorcraft master (which comes with a stronger all-metal pushrod) and slave. You can get it all as a master/slave/hydraulic line assembly, too.

The slaves on these go out so often you'll be kicking yourself if you install a used one and have to drop the tranny in a few thousand miles when the clutch won't fully disengage no matter how much you push the pedal to the floor or bleed the system.

The shifter can still be firm with shot bushings. Mine were cracked to bits when I replaced them. It's just one of those things made easier with the tranny off the vehicle. You can even do it after it's drained and tip it to the side to be sure you won't be dropping any bushing bits down the shifter hole. Sucks doing a bushing replacement later on through the body hole for the shifter with pliers, then dropping a bushing bit down into the tranny.

 

[Freshmeat]

Anime- thanks for the info. Initially, I was planning to go with the used parts but found a deal on a clutch kit that included a new slave, so I'm going with that. While I'm at it, it seems senseless to have everything in the bellhousing brand new and trust an unknown master with black hydraulic fluid coming out, so I'll replace it, too. At this point I'm thinking I'll reuse the main hose from master to slave unless it's cheap enough to just replace it.

With all the help I've received on this board, I'll hopefully be able to get this done and driving Saturday.