Matt's '92/'99 4X4 V8/4R70W swap! | Page 25 | Ford Explorer Forums - Serious Explorations

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Matt's '92/'99 4X4 V8/4R70W swap!

Vehicle: 1992 forest green Ford Explorer 4X4
(<Frikin Sweet)

Drivetrain: '99 GT-40P 5.0(4.9)L 302----4R70W Automatic

Well i got my engine so i guess its time to start a project thread! The timeline on this is pretty loose. but as soon as possible cause the ole 4.0 is making wierd noises.

EDIT: DO NOT be STUPID like me! Don't get a 2wd drivetrain to go into a 4wd vehicle! The transmission output shaft length is different and will require a full trans teardown to retrofit. Luckily one of the other awesome members of the forum has the parts I need to convert. But you may not be so lucky. I doubt most junkyards would sell you Just the shaft and housing. Would rather you buy the whole transmission.

Full teardown and rebuild
Keeping the gt-40's
New gaskets,pistons,cam,bearings,lifters, the works.
Maybe new crank
maybe strokin it
build for future forced induction
Transfer case: Hhhhhhmmmmmmm... maybe bw1354(dont wanna) or 4406 if i can fit it between the frame rails
plans will definitely evolve as we go along

here the pics





cant wait to get this thing runnin!

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the rubber sleeve seal thingie on the housing is torn up a bit but I think this is replaceable.

I will try and remember to look at it tonight.

Ryan hasn't answered back yet but I don't think he needs them.

What is your zipcode I'll qoute up some shippage.

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ok there yours.

Dam I forgot to look at the seal. I'll check it out later.

What are my options on radiator hoses?

I'm looking at the universal ones but wondered if there are any molded ones I should try.

I'm using an upper from fox body 5.0 Mustang.
The lower is my stock 4.0 hose (Had to stretch it open slightly to fit over water pump neck). It is the perfect shape and length.

21014, thank you very much! Damn, that'll save me a few hundred right there :)

I dunno if it'll help you any, but I used an assortment of Summit's flex hoses on the aluminum radiator in my 'wheeler...

Shipping will be 18$(probly a slight overestimate I'll weigh the stuff when I get home)

My paypal is

But wait till I've weighed the stuff and looked at that yoke seal before you send me any money.

On another note all my stuff arrived today. Pistons, rings, headers, transgo kit and such.

I haven't seen any of it yet cause I'm at work, and it's drivin me nuts. To me, packages are like presents.

I have to fight my dad off em so he won't open em first.

Spas you will want to replace the rear seal on the output housing. it and the slip yoke boot thing are one piece, and its torn by the junkyard, seems like a simple press in kinda thing.

unpacked all my stuff pics in a second.















kit comes with parts to install and EPC relief valve to prevent high press parts breakage

on a strange note, the kit includes some scarf cut teflon seals to replace the steel rings on the pump that seal the fluid pressure feed hole for the overdrive band, says "seals help prevent accidental band application and burnup." i think ill stay with the steel rings, cause i dont feel like pulling the pump back off.

Christmas! Oh wait.........nope just similar

Christmas! Oh wait.........nope just similar

lol, that's how my mom lets me know there's a package for me over at my parents house that I need to go pick up. Subject: It's cristmas again. After having some stuff stolen off of my front porch I decided it was safer to send everything to their house since my mom is at home all day.

Are those the hedmans?


Yep those the hedmans. I may try tomorrow to stick the heads on the block and bolt on the headers. To get an idea of the final placement.

Rotating assembly is at the machinists getting ballanced. 125$

OoOOOOooo, lookit all the shiny things..! You'll have to let us know how that Transgo kit holds up over time, man. I'm planning on Alto Red Eagle stuff and a Baumann valve body recalibration kit/ pressure relief valve/ bypass clutch control valve for mine. The seal is no problem, I'm sure I can press a new one on during my lunch break :) I'll paypal you by Friday, ok? Thanks!

I love getting parts in the mail, and Techie, I totally understand shipping new toys to a different addy- which is why I send everything to my job. It's easy to lose packages in a big old Ford dealer, but at least my coworkers don't steal them like my neighbors do :eek:

Friday is fine. I think I may get bored and yank the old seal out. And try to clean the thing a little bit.

Does anyone know if eeciv and eecv computers used the same maf voltage tables?

I am thinking of using an explorer ypipe. Modifying it to fit around the oilpan.

Since it has the right locations for o2s and cats.

That's a good place to start, the collectors will be off slightly for your headers, but that's nothing.

I just got the 88400 headers NEW on eBay for $76.00....

I have my engine on the engine stand up side down, with the Dual Sump Pan just sitting on there. I am going to see how the stock pipes fit on the Hedman collector. I am going to keep the Front and rear Cats for now.


damn 76$

take some pics of how the pipes line up for me will ya please?

i have a question. on the hedmans, the primarys extend just a little bit past the flange as you can kinda see in this picture:

i am thinking this is to help focus the pressure on the gasket to reduce blow outs. i have looked at the gasket and it seems logical to me.

But then I looked At the factory headers and they don't have the protrusions.

im thinking ill leave it like this, does anyone have any good reasons that i should grind em down?

keep in mind, grinding them down will weaken the welds on the primarys/flange. unless i reinforce it on the back. which i dont want to do cause my welder is setup for flux cored and the welds dont look great like MIG.

A lot of the time on mass produced headers that sit on shelves for some time, the flanges get warped, and the welds need to be resurfaced on a Bridgeport...OR the Ultra-Low-Buck method of using a belt sander.

Throw a straight edge across the flange, and see if it needs any work. THEN and only then would I worry about it.


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I'm talking about leaving the protrusions versus grinding them flush with the flange.