Max Weight for 2006 EB Explorer 4.0 V6 2WD?

I have a 2006 EB Explorer 4.0 V6 2WD. I recently added a Class III hitch and converted the 4 flat wiring to 7 wire. I am in the process of adding a tranny cooler and a brake controller with a factory harness. I also have a Blue Ox WD SwayPro hitch.

With this setup, what size/weight travel trailer can I safely tow? I'm finding mixed numbers from different sources. I'm hoping for +/- 5000lbs dry weight.

 

[MountaineerGreen]

The towing capacity is all dependent on the gear ratio in your rear axle- check your owners manual for a capacity chart. You can find your axle code on your door sticker.

It sounds like you have a good start on an excellent towing setup. A quality WD setup is one of the best things you can buy.

I'd look for a feather weight travel trailer. They are generally shorter in height, made of lighter materials, and fiberglass clad. They pull better as a general rule as a result, especially behind a lighter tow vehicle. Jayco make some really nice JayFeather trailers.

 

[Lee29720]

Thanks. Looks like I have an axle code 45 which is a 3.55. So, according to the manual, even with the class III hitch, my limit is 3,500 lbs.

 

[gijoecam]

Indeed, a 4.0 SOHC, 2wd, auto trans, with a 3.55 is rated for 3500 lbs trailer weight, but note that's MAX trailer weight. That number likely includes an empty tow vehicle save for a 150 lb driver. Add gear, kids, the dog, and the wife (in that order, of course) and your tow rating will drop by another 400+ lbs from the GCWR. It all adds up much faster than you would think.

It's likely that the weak link is the gear ratio... bumping up to a 3.73 raises the tow rating to 5210. With the 3.55, you'll be working the trans hard, and the trans is just not going to like it even with the extra cooler.

-Joe

 

[MountaineerGreen]

The good news is since you are 2wd, a gear swap would be relatively simple.

 

[stash]

Just purchased a 06 SLT 2wd v6 with a 3.55 and I'm concerned as well about towing capacity as well. The owner of the Ford Dealership convinced me (against my by better judgement) that the package would easily tow the TrailManor 2619 we have been considering. Which come's in at 2,673 lbs (dry weight). Not bad for a hard-shell popup. Now I don't know what I'm going to do. Changing differential gearing is not what I had in mind, but at this stage of the game, it seems I have no choice. Can anyone share info as to the best way to proceed? Ford dealership, or independent mechanic? Costs involved, etc? Thanks, Stash

 

[gijoecam]

Just purchased a 06 SLT 2wd v6 with a 3.55 and I'm concerned as well about towing capacity as well. The owner of the Ford Dealership convinced me (against my by better judgement) that the package would easily tow the TrailManor 2619 we have been considering. Which come's in at 2,673 lbs (dry weight). Not bad for a hard-shell popup. Now I don't know what I'm going to do. Changing differential gearing is not what I had in mind, but at this stage of the game, it seems I have no choice. Can anyone share info as to the best way to proceed? Ford dealership, or independent mechanic? Costs involved, etc? Thanks, Stash

Did you ask this over on PopupExplorer.com?? I could have sworn I saw this question already this morning...

This is another classic case of the dealership telling the customer anything they want to hear to make a sale. Is the dealership owner going to pay for the transmission rebuild or rear-end rebuild when they wear out prematurely due to the towing? I doubt it. If they will, make sure you get it in writing from him... otherwise, in all honesty, he took you for a ride.

As you probably discovered, your tow vehicle isn't going to be the best tool for the rig you're trying to pull. However, it is rated to pull 3500 lbs right out of the box. Now, take that 3500 lb tow rating, subtract the weight of the occupants in the vehicle (wife, kids, dog, etc), and you'll see how quickly the 'real' tow rating diminishes.

Lets just assume you're driving it alone... 3500 lbs of tow capacity, minus 2673lb weight of the trailer, minus the 1000 lbs of gear (easily... probably more) of gear, food, water, propane, firewood, etc., and you're already over the tow vehicle's rating. Now, include the weight of the wife, kids, dog, strollers, playpens, bicycles, and road entertainment, and you're over by another 500-800 lbs. Taking a cooler for the brown-pops? There's another 100 lbs of tasty fermented goodness with ice. You can see how quickly the weight adds-up.

Stepping up to the 3.73 rear end will bump the tow rating to 5390 or 5210 (2wd/4wd). That'll make a world of difference. The good news is that just about any driveline or transmission shop can do the gear change for less than $1000 (probably closer to $750 per axle). The bad news is that you'll have to either take it to a dealership to have the gear ratio adjusted in the computer to correct the speedometer and shift points, or you could invest in a programmer and manually make the adjustments yourself. Additionally a programmer would allow you to adjust the settings for better performance while towing. The trans would like the newer settings a lot more with the better program IMHO, and you'll like the extra power.

Hope that helps!

 

[stash]

Thanks so much for the input. I was so frustrated I called the dealer and discussed my discomfort with the deal. Asked him to do some personal reasearch. Though his initial observations didn't change, he told me that if over the course of several weeks I'm not happy, to come on back and we'll work something out. In the mean time, I got with a local mechanic and discussed the 3.73 change out. The man estimated around $1500.00. More than I want to spend. Anyhow, I'm going to coast a while and see how things pan out. If things don't work out, I'll go back to the dealer and get something that will. Thanks again. I'll keep an update posted.
Stash

 

[MountaineerGreen]

If you are willing to do the work, you could buy salvage yard pumpkin(s) with 3.73's and bolt them in, then just a dealer PCM correction may be necessary. I'd think you could get the pumpkins for a few hundred each.

 

[remadams]

towing requirements

This is confusing me the most about the difference in the 3.55 ratio vs the 3.73 ratio. The basics in understanding the limits of the ability for a vehicle to tow a trailer is simply:

1: can the vehicle handle the tongue weight of the trailer and not exceed its GVWR.
2: does the vehicle have enough Force to overcome inertia with the trailer attached.
3: does the vehicle have enough Force to maintain momentum.
4: the ability to bring all that mass to a stop.
5: the vehicles geometry (weight, height, length, suspension) must be such as to be able to control the mass at speed.

My question is how does changing the gear ratio less then 5% can change all stated above. The finale gear ratio in 1st gear and with the torque multiplication of a the torque converter, the Explorer with the 3.55 gear set would still have more then enough Force needed to over come the inertia of a 5000 Lb trailer which a 3.73 gear set Explorer (plus more) is rated for and maintain momentum. Both the 3.55 gear set and the 3.73 gear set Explorers have the same breaks, geometry, and suspension.

This appears as a warranty issue with Ford. I tow with a 3.55 gear set and have no problems however, i do need to turn off the overdrive in hilly terrain other then that no problems with stopping controlling all the same as the 3.73 Explorers (tranny cooler a must). As an engineer and mechanic i can see issues with the transmission if the overdrive is constantly shifting up and down and the little extra gearing would keep the tranny in overdrive longer but, a change in the shifting program would do the same. i perceive that the transmission is the problem and Ford changed the ratio to protect it self from overzealous people who know little about towing as most people just put it in drive and go and not look at the RPMs, the gear that the tranny is in, and the terrain driven on, which leads to burned up transmission. Keeping the motor in the optimum RPM range helps keep the transmission from overworking and straining the rear diff, trying to compensate for the lack of torque.

I had a Windstar that everyone told me would not tow the trailer i had. I applied a little math and found it meet all the criteria need to handle the weight and off I went. I payed attention to RPM and terrain and finally after 189,000 miles i needed to replace it (unrelated to towing).

So, if someone else knows why a 3.55 gear set can not tow what a 3.73 gear set can please, let me know.

 

[NeedInfo123]

Remadams, did you get any replies to this? I have the same questions and I'm not an engineer. I have a 2005 explorer with the 2.55 axle ratio and the factory class II hitch rated for 350 tongue weight. I'm convinced I can tow my new boat of up to 3,000 lb fine but the tongue weight has me concerned.
The factory hitch is rated for 350 and I'm slightly over that.
If the engine can town more than it's rated for as you suggest, do you think Ford is also understating the tongue weight capacity on the factory hitch?

 

[remadams]

towing limits

i did not get any replies. i was i hoping that i would but, when you start talking physics most stay away (Momentum = p = mass x velocity = m v). i hoping that you meant 3.55 ratio and not 2.55. the tongue rating is not fords but the hitch manufacture and DOT so to be safe i recommend that you install a class III hitch which has a tongue rating of 500 lb. and a pull capacity of 5000 lb. this is what i did and have no problems also, my transmission tech told me the change the transmission fluid more often when towing and i would look into a extra transmission cooler. the 4.0l has more enough torque and turn off the overdrive on any grade greater then .5 degrees.

 

[NeedInfo123]

Towing with 3.55

Yes, I did mean 3.55. Thanks. I went and got the class III hitch and feel MUCH better. Especially after seeing that the class II hitch had a tongue weight max of 350 lbs but the insert with the ball on it only had a 300 lb max tongue weight rating.
I'll keep the OD off and quit worrying about it, I guess.

 

[jlseadoorxp]

Tow Capacity 2005 explorer w/3.55 gears vs 3.73

You guys are making too big of a deal of a lousy 5% axle change. I basically took my 2005 4.0 liter XLT and only added a class III / IV hitch and I tow a loaded 228 mako boat which is nearly 6,000 lbs with the trailer and except for a few steep ramps, I rarely have any trouble. The axle change from 3.55 to 3.73 you won't notice at all. I also leave my OD off and drive sensible when towing and change my transmission fluid every 30,000 miles. IMHO, spending $1500+ for an axle - speedometer - CPU calibration change is a complete waste of money.

 

[jlseadoorxp]

Basically, if you need more pulling "grunt", step up to an Expedition or a 4x4.

 

[gijoecam]

The axle change from 3.55 to 3.73 you won't notice at all.

You won't notice the difference, but the transmission will thank you for it. THe 5R series is not notoriously strong, and exceeding its ratings when towing is just asking for trouble.

Boy, talk about resurrecting a dead horse!

 

[jlseadoorxp]

Point taken.....

And it's why I have a third party extended warranty if the transmission gets toasted. And it's not like they will ask to see the boat since many people get the same hitch which is a 2" received instead of that tiny factory setup for hauling bikes, wheelchairs...etc. An important note is that I also tow less than 5 miles to the ramp and never take this rig on the highway or any distance.