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metal thermostat housing soon available for v6 2005+ engine


2000StreetRod

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Housing installed

I received the new lower housing hold down bolts today (PN W702527S437) so I continued the replacement of my stock plastic housing with a metal one.
First I torqued the bolts to 96 lb-in (8 lb-ft).
Install1.jpg

Then I tightened the lower hose clamp, installed the heater hose with clamp, and connected the sensor connectors. I installed the thermostat and the O ring on top of it. I thought about replacing the made in China thermostat (92 deg C/198 deg F) but according to past datalogs it has worked very well to maintain a constant temperature under normal driving conditions.
Install3.jpg

The paper gasket came next.
Install4.jpg

I wire brushed the old bolts and added a drop of oil before installing the cover.
Install5.jpg

I am satisfied with the product and will purchase a replacement metal cover when one becomes available.
 

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swshawaii

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Very nice. :thumbsup: Thanks for the follow up with great pics. Any ETA on the aluminum upper?
 


2000StreetRod

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coolant leak

After replacing the plastic lower thermostat housing with a metal one and running the engine for about five minutes coolant dripped from the front and rear of the block. I tried tightening hose clamps and top and bottom housing section accessible bolts but still have leaks. I can't identify the source of the leaks but think it might be the gasket between the upper and lower sections.
Install4.jpg

I did not apply gasket sealer to the gasket since I assumed that the thermostat gasket was the primary seal.

This thread identifies another possible leak source: 05 Sport Track 2 sensor Thermostat Housing Apparently the replacement plastic housing holes for the sensors are larger than stock and oversize O rings must be installed to prevent leaks. New O rings came with my metal housing but I assumed they were for reusing the sensors and since I purchased new sensors with installed O rings I did not use the ones supplied with the metal housing. At the time of installation I thought the friction between the O rings and the housing was adequate for a good seal. It would have been helpful if instructions were provided with the metal housing kit. I will now have to remove the main intake, serpentine belt and idler pulley, multiple intake related hoses, a fuel hose, coolant hoses, and multiple wire looms in order to remove, inspect and reinstall the thermostat housing sections.
Leak1.jpg
 


thermohousing

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I am very sorry you are having an issue with the metal lower housing. I would not reuse the plastic upper housing. Due to it being aged plastic it can be distorted enough to cause you issues. Make sure that when the two housing are mated by hand ,without the thermostat in place there should not be any gap around the edges on the mating surface, should be flat and also the tapered edge of the upper housing can not have any gouges. I realize you are pretty handy with a wrench due to the mods you have done on your truck, so these are suggestions from me to you. Do not reuse the oring on top once it has been compressed. Also if you want to make sure you do not have a leak before installing the upper intake. Go to autozone and rent there pump for the cooling system and add your coolant and pump it up to 15 psi. A leak will definately show up with that pressure and will keep you from having to pull it apart again. I personally install the upper and lower housings together first, with the thermostat and oring before I install the assembly onto the engine. Also, you can remove the gasket and use a skim coat of rtv on the flange instead. the rtv needs to dry at least 12 hrs in 50+ degrees to be effective. The paper gasket was designed for the metal upper and lower housings, not the metal to plastic setup. Remember, originally I made this for the mustang setup. Still a few months away from getting the metal upper housings completed. The tooling for the castings is taking forever. I had to go up to the bigger match plates to accommodate the explorer and ranger upper housing and lower housing on the same match plates then casting and machining to do. I am sorry I did not include specific instructions with the part I sent you, to many coals in the fire and I did not have one made up yet for the explorers. Send me an email at simmonsautosportz@yahoo.com and Ill send you my phone number. I just pulled my setup off my mustang and sent it to a guy in new England (he was doing it outside in the freezing cold and I installed another metal setup out of stock for quality control, no leaks and I pressure checked if before starting. If you are leaking at the mating flange between the two pieces replace the upper plastic piece with a new one and replace the oring, do not reinstall the paper gasket and you can put a skim coat of rtv on the flange mating surface. Hopes this helps.
 


2000StreetRod

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Mityvac MV 4560

. . . Go to autozone and rent there pump for the cooling system and add your coolant and pump it up to 15 psi. A leak will definately show up with that pressure and will keep you from having to pull it apart again. . .
Excellent suggestion. I ordered a Mityvac MV 4560 Cooling System Pressure Test Kit today. I don't know why I've never purchased a pressure tester before since one can be extremely useful. This one is supposed to include a radiator adapter for Fords (All through 2009 except Contour, Focus, Mondeo). It's specified to be capable of a maximum pressure of 30 psi. I'll pull off just enough intake related hoses and looms to get visibility of the thermostat housing and then pressurize the cooling system to determine the source of the leak(s). Hopefully it will be in the upper housing and not the lower housing or the sensor O rings.
 


2000StreetRod

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20 psi & no leaks!

The Mityvac MV 4560 Cooling System Pressure Test Kit is an extremely useful tool. As soon as the pressure in the cooling system increased to 0.5 psi I detected (heard and saw) a leak between the upper and lower thermostat housing sections. Upon inspection I found that the flimsy paper gasket had misaligned when the two sections were pulled together when the bolts were tightened.
Gasket.jpg

When I installed the upper housing I questioned the need for the paper gasket since the stock housing did not have one. The system is designed to be entirely dependent on the thermostat gasket to prevent leakage. There is a tapered edge on the bottom of the upper housing that aligns it with the bore of the top of the bottom housing when the bolts are tightened. The edge presses against the thermostat gasket sealing the system. In my opinion the paper gasket defeats the original design. The thickness of the paper gasket reduces the pressure of the edge against the thermostat gasket. Since it also misaligns easily I advise against using it. Since I reused my thermostat gasket I applied a bead of RTV Blue along the edge of the upper housing where it mates with the lower housing. I let it cure for 24 hours after loosely tightening the bolts initially, then further tightening after 2 hours and 12 hours.

My radiator cap is rated at 16 psi. When the pressure in the system reached 14 psi a slight leak occurred at the top of the lower radiator hose which was stopped by tightening the clamp. At 16 psi a leak occurred at one of the heater hose ends which was stopped by tightening its hose clamp. There were no more leaks even though I increased the system pressure to 20 psi and held it there for about 5 minutes.
 


4pointslow

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pump

Did you have to pump the Mightyvac a whole lot, in other words did your hand get worn out or did it get to 20 psi in a reasonable amount of time.
Just curious.
During the 16 plus years I worked on vehicles for a living I did a lot of cooling system work. A lot of manufacturers started using gaskets with a bead of RTV already on them so you were not supposed to have to use more. Well it only took one time for it to leak and I said BS to that idea. From that point on I used copper RTV on both sides of every gasket and even on O rings that were not supposed to need it.
I had a Motorcraft upper thermostat housing that distorted and lifted up a little releasing pressure on the o ring, kind of like the thickness of the gasket did to yours. I applied RTV Ultra Copper to it and it has been good for a year now. I discovered Ultra Copper when I had an exhaust manifold that was warped on a Toyota pickup I used to have. It sealed that up, never had a problem with that manifold after that. I keep 2 tubes of that stuff in my garage at all times. It is sensor safe and probably overkill but I never have a leak when I use it.
These metal lower Housings are definitely the way to go too. I replaced a plastic one with a plastic one and it only lasted 5 months. Then tried a Motorcraft one and that one is still holding up but for how long?
I am glad I got a metal one and when one of my two explorers starts leaking there, I will use it and hopefully get another one. I wont use the gasket, but will use the RTV.
 


2000StreetRod

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small piston

The pump uses a small piston so there's much output with each pump. I did have to pump quite a while because there was no coolant in the upper radiator hose. Since coolant is basically not compressible, the less air in the system the less you have to pump. I have a small air compressor for impact tools (even though I have none) and another one I purchased to paint a car (but never have) which I could have used. However, I like the hand pump because it is quiet and I can hear a leak when it starts.

My experience with RTV on threaded fittings is that it prevents leaks but has low strength compared to traditional thread sealer. I used it on the thermostat housing so it won't be so difficult to remove the plastic upper section when I replace it with the metal section (if it ever becomes available).
 


thermohousing

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Im glad you got it sorted out , I use the pump religiously. The matchplates are done at the pattern maker and being sent to the casting foundry for the prototype before production. Should not take to much longer to get the upper housing for the explorer and the ranger done.
 


PRS

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Im glad you got it sorted out , I use the pump religiously. The matchplates are done at the pattern maker and being sent to the casting foundry for the prototype before production. Should not take to much longer to get the upper housing for the explorer and the ranger done.
Any update on the availability of the upper housing?

Also do you still have some of the lower housing kits for the explorer in stock? Unfortunately my stock housing finally started leaking so it's time to upgrade!

Is paypal still the best way to order?

Thanks:thumbsup:
 


thermohousing

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I have two sensor hole lowers and single sensor hole lowers for sale. Yes the best way to order is to send funds to paypal address fdxmechanic@yahoo.com and put a note in it to which setup you are ordering. The price for the lower with seals is $149 that includes shipping to USA. The tooling for the upper housing is complete. I am waiting for the prototype casting for fit check and then I should get my first run. Prototype should be ready within the next two weeks and then fit check and then first run complete. Should have them soon. I will then sell them top and bottom and top only for customers that purchased just the bottom pieces. After I get the explorer and ranger top housings. I am working on a web site for ordering. I will include the gasket, o-rings, sensors, maybe even thermostats. I will not carry the cheap thermostats so don't look for the cheapest price. if i cannot get the good ones I will not sale them on my site.
 


jimbalaya

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Update on Upper Metal Housing Availability

I have two sensor hole lowers and single sensor hole lowers for sale. Yes the best way to order is to send funds to paypal address fdxmechanic@yahoo.com and put a note in it to which setup you are ordering. The price for the lower with seals is $149 that includes shipping to USA. The tooling for the upper housing is complete. I am waiting for the prototype casting for fit check and then I should get my first run. Prototype should be ready within the next two weeks and then fit check and then first run complete. Should have them soon. I will then sell them top and bottom and top only for customers that purchased just the bottom pieces. After I get the explorer and ranger top housings. I am working on a web site for ordering. I will include the gasket, o-rings, sensors, maybe even thermostats. I will not carry the cheap thermostats so don't look for the cheapest price. if i cannot get the good ones I will not sale them on my site.
It has been a month since your last post on the availability of the upper metal housing - how is it going?

I am interested in both the top and bottom together and want to do the upgrade at the same time.
 


Steeda04SVT

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^ Same. Going on my 3rd thermostat housing and def want to do the metal upgrade one soon.
 


thermohousing

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The metal uppers are in production now, took forever to get the part in the casting production run. About two to three weeks more, machining should be quick. Please do not use the paper gasket I supply with the metal lower and plastic upper. It is not needed and may cause a leak. I definitely install the housings together before I bolt the assembly down to the engine, just my two cents, but can be done seperately if you like, it's up to installer.
 




4pointslow

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upper housing

Cant wait!!!!
 


Steeda04SVT

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Def hoping you get some lowers in soon. Had to change out my 3rd lower housing last night and am tired of it.
 


thermohousing

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when I get the upper housings in I will let the forum know. Ill get plenty of them on this order, I will get the explorer upper, the sport trac and ranger upper also. I have single sensor lowers and 2 sensor lowers available now.
 


4pointslow

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upper

Whats different about the ranger and sport trac upper from the explorer one?
Any pictures?
I am thinking in terms of custom applications where one might need to move the hose to a different angle. For superchargers and things. lol.
 

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