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mjenk430 02 Sport Trac SAS

OK, I've been snooping around here for the last month or so doing research for my SAS. Today I bought my 87 waggy axle (from "they pull" junkyard), so I thought it was time to start a build thread. Last weekend I bought a 74 waggy axle (from "you pull" junkyard) and stripped the flat-top knuckles, spindles, and outer shafts. Prepare yourself for dumb questions from me and a long build. I will post some pictures tomorrow of the two axles.

Here is my parts list so far. Please, please, please let me know if I've made any mistakes in my choices or if you see any places I could save some money. Or any major expenses I've overlooked.

I'm not going to deal with any lockers, gears, or front drive shaft until I get the truck back on the road after the swap.


Purchased To Date (5/9/11)

Junkyard
86 Jeep Wagoneer Dana 44 Axle (Narrow Trac) = 262.50
Flat Top Knuckles, Outer Shafts, Spindles, & Spring Plates from 74 Wagoneer = 105.00
Steering Box, Pitman Arm, and Steering Rod from Gen 2 Explorer = 26.00
Total = 393.50

Amazon
Raybestos 66297R Rotor/Hub x2 = 197.50
Warn Premium Hubs PN 20990 = 94.52
Shipping = 0.00
Total = 292.02

Rock Auto
Spindle Bearing Kit Timken SBK1 x2 = 19.42
Wheel Bearing (Inner) Timken Set37 x2 = 18.82
Wheel Bearing (Outer) Timken Set45 x2 = 17.08
Wheel Seal Timken 4250 x2 = 6.94
Disc Brake Anti-Rattle Clip Raybestos H5408 x4 = 2.80
Caliper, Right Raybestos FRC4064 = 22.79
Caliper, Left Raybestos FRC4063 = 22.79
Brake Pads Raybestos ATD52M = 40.79
Explorer Forum Discount = 7.57
Shipping = 38.46
Total = 182.32

Sky Manufacturing
Dana 44 Knuckle Ball Joints x2 = 98.00
Dana 44 Knuckle Machining (Keyed) = 55.00
High Steer Arm (Tall) Pass. Side (Keyed) = 99.00
High Steer Install/Stud Kit = 39.00
Dana 44 Ball Joint Tool = 12.00
Shipping = 52.41
Total = 355.41

Ebay (Seller = drivelinesource)
Spicer 5-760x U-Joint x2 = 38.00
Shipping = 9.00
Total = 47.00

BJ’s Off-Road
TT’s Fabworks: Spring Over Axle Kit = 95.00
Shipping = 21.07
Total = 116.07

Sky Manufacturing
Chevy S-10 Solid Axle Hanger Kit = 219.00
Toyota Front Shock Hoops = 69.00
Shipping = 54.60
Total = 342.60

Ballistic Fabrication
Steering Kit (Tie Rod Ends, tube adapters, and tube for tie rods) = 246.99
Shock Tabs = 3.96
Pirate 4x4 Discount = -25.10
Shipping = 63.77
Total = 289.62

Not Yet Purchased

Frontier 4x4
Trail-Gear Heavy Duty Front Leaf Springs (Pair) = 255.55
Shipping = 80.44
Total = 335.99

Adapt-It USA
Wheel Adapters (Rear) 5x4.5 to 5x5.5 Adapter = 114.50
Shipping = 0.00
Total = 114.50

Randy’s Ring & Pinion
Yukon YG D44-488 = 203.40
Yukon Open Carrier Case YC D706025 = 62.95
Install Kit ??? = ???
Yukon F8.8-488 = 265.17
Install Kit ??? = ???
Shipping = ???
Total = ???

Wheels 18x10 (5x5.5) ??? = ???

Shocks ??? = ???

Brake Lines ??? = ???

Front Drive Shaft ??? = ???


I still need to do some more research for the wheels. I need to make sure they will fit with the warn manual hubs. It is hard to find an 18x10 wheel for my 36x15.50R18 M/T MTZ's.

I have a 96 ford ranger 2wd in my backyard just sitting (past abandoned project, bagged and dropped :rolleyes:). Will the steering box, pitman arm, and steering rod out of the ranger work for my swap?

OK. Get ready for the dumb questions. I have a mechanic buddy who told me that if I went to manual hubs I might have to change something in the transfer case? What was he talking about?

Also, I read on some parts website that with the warn hubs on the waggy axle, to "use the correct spindle nut kit". Any idea what that's about?
 


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DB_1

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You might be able to use the steering box off your Ranger if you have room on the inside of the frame rail.
Otherwise you'll have to use a steering box that mounts on the outside of the frame rail like a Toyota box or Saginaw.

As for the steering rod, I doubt it. Just make your own, it will be much stronger.

The Ford shock mounts are less than half the price of the Toyota shock hoops if it's a concern to you but I like the look of the tube myself.

Most lift kit mfg's "white" shocks are pretty much the same across the board. A monotube shock like Bilstein or the PolyPerformance BBCS shocks are better. Then you get into the smooth body race shocks in either emulsion or remote reservoir style. These of course cost the most money but you can tune them to your liking.

Brake lines you can have custom made or most lift kit mfg's make extended braided lines you should be able to use if the ends are the same. Another option is to make a longer hard line if you have a flaring tool or a local brake shop can make what you need.

As for the T-case, your mechanic buddy might be thinking of of a Jeep T-case. They usually do a slip yoke eliminator kit when lifting a Jeep to gain driveshaft length and lessen the angle.
 




MidnightRebel07

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Check out Chad551's build thread, he's got the only other Sport Trac that's been SAS'ed.

Explorer's SAS's done can be studied, they are exactly the same because the ST, Ranger and Explorer share the same suspension/ frame setup for the most part.

I plan on doing a SAS, SOA on mine hopefully in the next few years.
 




RockRanger

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For all the brake parts and stuff you have listed from amazon and advance auto you may want to check the price at www.rockauto.com They have been cheaper then autozone down the street even with shipping on a few parts I have looked for. Plus they are a vendor here and there is usually a discount code floating around you can use.

Have you thought of going with links up front instead of with leafs? all of the stuff below you wouldnt have to buy if you did a link setup.

Dana 44 Knuckle Machining (Keyed) = 55.00
High Steer Arm (Tall) Pass. Side (Keyed) = 99.00
High Steer Install/Stud Kit = 39.00
Chevy S-10 Solid Axle Hanger Kit = 219.00
Toyota Front Shock Hoops = 69.00

Leaf Spring Conversion Kit (perches, u-bolts, leaf spring plates) = 112.99

Trail-Gear Heavy Duty Front Leaf Springs (Pair) = 255.55
Shipping = 80.44
Total = 335.99

That is $928 that you could put towards linking it. Just something to think about. I am not sure if or how much more if any then that it would cost but I have a feeling it would be close.

As far as your warn premium hubs. I just use hubs out of the junkyard off of TTB f150s and broncos. If you are running stock shafts I don't see the need. I have broken 3 stock shafts and one hub so I figure they are all pretty close to each other in strength. The stock ones look just like the standard warn hubs I also have.
 




mjenk430

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You might be able to use the steering box off your Ranger if you have room on the inside of the frame rail.
Otherwise you'll have to use a steering box that mounts on the outside of the frame rail like a Toyota box or Saginaw.

I definitely want to shoot for mounting the steering box on the inside of the frame rail if possible. One, to keep it out of the way of the shock mounts, and two I don't really want to see the steering box when looking into the wheel well.

The Ford shock mounts are less than half the price of the Toyota shock hoops if it's a concern to you but I like the look of the tube myself.

I definitely like the look of the hoops more than the F250 mounts. I think this will be one place I will splurge a bit.

Most lift kit mfg's "white" shocks are pretty much the same across the board. A monotube shock like Bilstein or the PolyPerformance BBCS shocks are better. Then you get into the smooth body race shocks in either emulsion or remote reservoir style. These of course cost the most money but you can tune them to your liking.

I haven't given a lot of thought to the shocks yet. I think I will wait and see where I am at in terms of money once I get the swap done, and then decide.
 




mjenk430

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Check out Chad551's build thread, he's got the only other Sport Trac that's been SAS'ed.

Explorer's SAS's done can be studied, they are exactly the same because the ST, Ranger and Explorer share the same suspension/ frame setup for the most part.

Yep, I have studied Chad's build inside and out. Even bugged him a few times with my newbie questions. He did a nice job with his ST and I can only hope to end up with as nice of a job.

There is actually another Sport Trac locally with a SAS. I saw him at the gas station the other day and stopped and talked to him. He had bought a new Yota axle from I believe he said trail-gear. I believe he said he had $1300 in the axle, but had no front drive shaft. :dunno: His leaf springs were directly under the frame with his rear shackle mount actually sleeved through the frame rail rather than a hanger. His steering box was on the outside of the frame rail way up at the front of the frame with the pitman arm facing the rear. He was running what looked like maybe 31x15.50 boggers. They were short and wide and must have stuck out 4-5 inches from the fenders. I don't know why, but everyone around here loves to put boggers on their jacked up trucks. They must not like being able to hear themselves think as they drive down the road at 60mph.

I plan on doing a SAS, SOA on mine hopefully in the next few years.

If you are looking for a waggy axle for your own swap, the junkyard I got mine from had another late 80s grand wagoneer axle in their inventory, the guy said they had both been sitting in the yard since 91. It's King George Auto Parts in King George, Va.
 




mjenk430

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For all the brake parts and stuff you have listed from amazon and advance auto you may want to check the price at www.rockauto.com They have been cheaper then autozone down the street even with shipping on a few parts I have looked for. Plus they are a vendor here and there is usually a discount code floating around you can use.

Thanks for the advise, I will definitely check them out.

Have you thought of going with links up front instead of with leafs? all of the stuff below you wouldnt have to buy if you did a link setup.

To be honest, I am a little scared of the geometry involved in doing a link setup. I am going to be pushing it with what little bit of fab experience I have doing leaf springs. I'm afraid a link setup may be a little bit too much for me to bite off. But it would definitely add to the "cool" factor.
 




mjenk430

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Snapped a couple pictures between rain storms today. I hope it's nice tomorrow so I can finish tearing down the axle and get it over to my cousin's for sandblasting. OR maybe I should stop spending money on the truck, so I can save to build myself a garage so I can have a decent place to work on my truck on rainy Saturdays. :dunno:

74 Waggy axle already stripped from the knuckles out.


Flat-top knuckles from 74 waggy, sandblasted and painted


87 Waggy axle, soon to be torn down for sandblasting and primer



Questions: Track bar? No track bar? If track bar, use stock mount? Or cut off and mount stronger ones?
 




RockRanger

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To be honest, I am a little scared of the geometry involved in doing a link setup. I am going to be pushing it with what little bit of fab experience I have doing leaf springs. I'm afraid a link setup may be a little bit too much for me to bite off. But it would definitely add to the "cool" factor.

It isnt that much harder especially if you go with a radius arm setup. I had leafs on mine then went to a 3 link and the links are so much nicer.

Questions: Track bar? No track bar? If track bar, use stock mount? Or cut off and mount stronger ones?

Track bar with leafs isn't necessary but will help a bit with handling. It needs to be the same length and angle as the steering. So you might be able to use the factory bracket but I doubt it. I never ran a track bar when I had leafs.
 




mjenk430

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Track bar with leafs isn't necessary but will help a bit with handling. It needs to be the same length and angle as the steering. So you might be able to use the factory bracket but I doubt it. I never ran a track bar when I had leafs.

OK then, factory bracket will be cut off before sandblasting and primer then. If I decide to run track bar with leafs I'll just add new brackets once everything else is done.

You now have my curiosity up regarding the linked suspension. I have been focusing all of my research on the leafed setup. Guess I should do some more reading through the forums before making my final decision. Just when I thought I had everything figured out. Thanks a lot!! :rolleyes::p:

You were right about rock auto, they are much cheaper on the timken parts. Amazon is still the cheapest place I have found the rotors/hubs though + free shipping on a pretty heavy item. I'm thinking about just getting a caliper rebuild kit from rock auto and cleaning up the rusted waggy calipers rather than spend unnecessary money on new ones.
 




mjenk430

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OK. Here's my Rock Auto Order:

Wheel Bearing (Inner) Timken Set37 x2 = 18.82
Wheel Bearing (Outer) Timken Set45 x2 = 17.08
Spindle Bearing Kit Timken SBK1 x2 = 19.42
Wheel Seal Timken 4250 x2 = 3.58
Brake Pads Raybestos ATD52M = 40.79
Caliper Repair Kit Raybestos WK524 x2 = 4.38
Caliper Bolt Raybestos H5004W x2 = 10.12
Disc Brake Anti-Rattle Clip Raybestos H5408 x4 = 2.80
Disc Brake Hardware Kit Raybestos H5584A = 5.14
Universal Joint Precision 371 x2 = 26.94
Explorer Forum Discount = 7.62
Shipping = 28.43
Total = 173.24

Is this everything I will need from the knuckles out besides ball joints, hub/rotors, and locking hubs?

Which ball joints?
Factory Spicer Ball Joints or Raybestos or Moog
 




RockRanger

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Universal Joint Precision 371 x2 = 26.94

Are these U joints for the axle shafts. If so I would get dana spicer 760x joints instead. Short of alloy joints they seam to be the strongest. When you break a ujoint you usually end up taking out the shafts as well.

I would go with the spicer ball joints. Made in the USA is always a good thing.
 




chad551

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You can def do a linked setup cheaper than leafs. Matt/Rockranger started leading me in the same direction, but I had already spent alot of money on my leaf setup components. And building a radius arm setup would be pretty easy. I am debating to redo mine to a linked setup, but my truck works well for what I do with it.

I also used the factory track bar mount and grand waggy track bar on my rig it helped the road manners ALOT.

And go with MOOG ball joints, they are lifetime warranty.
 




mjenk430

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You can def do a linked setup cheaper than leafs. Matt/Rockranger started leading me in the same direction, but I had already spent alot of money on my leaf setup components. And building a radius arm setup would be pretty easy. I am debating to redo mine to a linked setup, but my truck works well for what I do with it.

I also used the factory track bar mount and grand waggy track bar on my rig it helped the road manners ALOT.

And go with MOOG ball joints, they are lifetime warranty.

Well, I actually cut my track bar mount off yesterday, cleaned up the axle and primed it. So, so much for that idea :( Guess I can always fab one back on if I'm not happy with the road manners. Also ordered all of the parts to complete the axle assembly, including the Spicer ball joints and 760x u-joists at RockRangers advice. And I also sent my passenger knuckle off today to Sky Manuf. to have it machined.


I'm still researching links vs leafs, haven't decided yet.
 




mjenk430

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Updated parts list on the first post
 




RockRanger

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You didnt "need" the hi-steer stuff if you decided to go with the link setup. It makes it better cause it allows you to set your trackbar and panard bar higher and flatter but it is not critical.

The steering is where you save the most going linked vs leafs.
 




crazyflights

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You can run the Ranger steering box on the inside frame rail with no problem. Excited to see the results.
-Boggers are fun to run if u dive off into alot of mud, you can't beat the performance, but yes they suck on the road!
 




mjenk430

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OK, ran into my first issue this evening. This question is really going to show how much of a novice I am. I am trying to press in the Spicer 5-760x u-joint into the axle shafts and I can't get the inner c-clips to fit. It is like the grooves for the c-clips are 1/16" too far apart, or the yoke is 1/6" too narrow. Has anyone else run into this issue?? What am I doing wrong?? I mic'ed them and I get the same 1/16" difference on both u-joints and all four yokes??
 




jperry7783

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Have you checked to make sure one of the needle bearings inside the cap hasn't slid down?

It may also be that your axle yokes have stretched or been compressed.
 


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mjenk430

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Have you checked to make sure one of the needle bearings inside the cap hasn't slid down?

That's exactly what it was. One of the needle bearings had fallen down into the cup when I slid the cap on. That was my 1/16" of an inch. Got them together last night.
 




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