Modifying a 99 just for me

[XploderPhil]

I have finally convinced my self that keeping the old girl is the way to go. I purchased her on October 28 2016 with 146,329 miles and I've only added 6300 miles since then. It begin as a purchase of necessity, I owned a low mileage 96 F150 5.0 short bed, but could no longer drive it. Two years earlier I started suffering major back pain and my left knee was completely worn out, I could no longer drive the F150 as the seat would not lean back far enough to comfortably drive, It was a major task to even drive even a few miles. I sold my pickup and began the hunt to find something more comfortable and dependable. Well it had to be a FORD, I bought my first Ford, a 67 Mustang Fastback (project) in 1982. I later became a Ford drivability tech, a Snap On Tools dealer and my last business was building Mustangs and other custom cars. I have corporate blue blood flowing through my veins, so it was a no brainer when I found my 99 Explorer and here we are 4.5 years later. I'm starting to win the battle with my health and I'm returning to my true love, CARS.

I have been glued to the forums, learning, researching and getting motivation to finally build a fun ride for my self. So many of the modifications that were done 10 years ago are much more difficult for us newbies today. Gone is Explorer Express, Saleen XP8, sway bars, rear wings, CIA, exhaust and many of the custom wheels. Obtaining the parts for simple modifications are no longer an easy task, in fact it can discouraging for a lot of us. But don't lose hope, it can still be achieved and with the help of so many knowledgeable people here, I'm going to modify my ride for fun, comfort and reliability. I have come up with a game plan and I'm starting to purchase parts. I have become very frugal (tight) over the last 7 year but that doesn't mean cheap and nor will I skimp on safety.

I will lay out my plans shortly, but first I would like to ask a couple of parts question for the long term crew so I can get all of the parts coming. Did I mention I'm moving back to Texas by the end of summer? I need to get it ready for the 2100 mile trip.

So may first question is about parts for lowering. and I need input on some choices. (I'm brain dead from reading so many post and looking at so may parts)
I'm looking at 2" blocks in the rear and torsion keys in front.

Lowering Blocks
Belltech 6102 Belltech Rear Block Kits | Summit Racing
It states 3.25" diameter bolts plus it has a 2 degree built in taper

DJM Suspension LB2LK DJM Suspension Lowering Block Kits | Summit Racing

Free Shipping - DJM Suspension Lowering Block Kits with qualifying orders of $109. Shop Suspension Blocks at Summit Racing.

www.summitracing.com

Suppose to fit the same vehicle as the Belltech 6102 but no specs and doesn't state 2 degree taper

Torsion keys, I have found very limited choices

Adjustable 1"-3" Front Lowering Drop Kit for 1998-2011 Ford Ranger 4X4 2WD Edge | eBay

Find many great new & used options and get the best deals for Adjustable 1"-3" Front Lowering Drop Kit for 1998-2011 Ford Ranger 4X4 2WD Edge at the best online prices at eBay! Free shipping for many products!

www.ebay.com

These don't look cast like I've seen in older write ups

1998-2013 Ford Ranger Mazda B Explorer 3" Drop Torsion Keys Lowering Kit | eBay

Front 1" to 3"Drop Forged Torsion Bar Lowering Keys. FORD BUILT ONLY Rebadged Ford Ranger torsion bar front suspension only. for Torsion Bar Front Suspension Only. 1998-2014 Ford Ranger 4 Wheel Drives.

www.ebay.com

These are stamped with "Keyway" like older post

Rear Sway bar 1"

1998-2013 Ford Ranger Mazda B Explorer 3" Drop Torsion Keys Lowering Kit | eBay

Front 1" to 3"Drop Forged Torsion Bar Lowering Keys. FORD BUILT ONLY Rebadged Ford Ranger torsion bar front suspension only. for Torsion Bar Front Suspension Only. 1998-2014 Ford Ranger 4 Wheel Drives.

www.ebay.com

Everything I've read states that the rear sway bar is one of the best mods for handling, But they were also talking about the bigger ones from Explorer Express and Saleen. Is this smaller sway bar going to make a difference?
Also if a go with this sway bar, it looks like I will still need to get poly bushing to upgrade the end link bars. Can anyone confirm before I try to call Summit

What bump stops are recommend with 2-3" inch drop?

Energy Suspension 9.9102G Energy Suspension Bump Stops | Summit Racing

Free Shipping - Energy Suspension Bump Stops with qualifying orders of $109. Shop Frame Bump Stops at Summit Racing.

www.summitracing.com

Prothane Motion Control 19-1315-BL Prothane Bump Stops | Summit Racing

Free Shipping - Prothane Bump Stops with qualifying orders of $109. Shop Frame Bump Stops at Summit Racing.

www.summitracing.com

Just a couple I saw in old post,

5.0 Spark plug wires
I was looking at NGK 52036 8mm but everyone's back ordered

More Information for STANDARD MOTOR PRODUCTS 6932

I'm a fan of Standard Ignition, I will probably go this way unless there's a better choice in this price range

Lastly I need brakes. I would like to go with Powerstop Z36 kits but i just cant do it with everything I've planned.
I have read mixed reviews on the R1 Concepts brand and they are also a vendor here at one time.

R1 Concepts - Performance Brake Parts, Rotors, Pads, Kits: Custom & Aftermarket

Shop R1 Concepts performance brake parts, brake pads, rotors, kits and more. R1 Concepts is the leading manufacturer of braking systems for all vehicles

www.r1concepts.com

I can get a set of their E-Line drilled and slotted rotors along with ceramic pads from a source for $157
Anyone have any recent experience with these brakes lately? Is it better than going with new Raybestos Pro Grade Parts?

My Xploder

 

[CDW6212R]

Hi Phil, it's good to see you planning for a long future for that Explorer. They all need some care at this age, and they are still a low maintenance cost vehicle.

I can help with the brakes, if function is the goal, not bling. Rock Auto has a great selection of rotors and pads, which is where I first discovered OEM Ford heavy duty pads, front and back. Those are my go to choices, they have survived mail delivery by me, and that's tough to do. The rear pads aren't that critical, you can be cheaper on those if you have to. But the front does most of the work, and skimping there can end up with squeaking or short life spans. Any decent brand rotor can be okay, I don't have to have the high dollar slotted or high cost brands. Buy great fluid, nothing low end, and keep it fresh/bled every couple of years. RA is great for finding part numbers too, I have bought those Ford pads from Amazon before, similar price and often quicker. Ford doesn't stock those HD versions the last time I checked.

I haven't dealt with the lowering parts in years, I began in 2004 with the EE full kit. The front bump stops were simply OEM Explorer Limited parts, which are obsolete now. The rear were special for EE stops, I don't know what would be similar now. The rear EE blocks were 2 3/8", I like them on my Mountaineer. Find some with a taper, that's important to have the leaf springs set evenly on them.

I found Moog rear end links for the sway bars, both assembled or pieces to install into used links. Buy those and report on them, I haven't got any but I put them in a wish list.

The torsion bar keys you want the lowering versions, but, know that later trucks had different stock keys, for a higher height. So avoid keys made for the Sport Trac or later Rangers, those set higher to start with. A lowering key for those might end up being the same as the 95-01 regular Explorer keys. I have bought two sets now, both came from eBay, they were under $50 a pair the last time.

For the long trip, change all of the fluids that aren't fresh now.

 

[donalds]

Nice 99 looks like mine

 

[XploderPhil]

Nice 99 looks like mine

Wish it was as fast

 

[CDW6212R]

Wish it was as fast

You'll work on that, right?

 

[CDW6212R]

Here's a link to the Moog rear end link bushing kit; https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000C55ZW6/?tag=serious-20

I'm not sure how firm those thermoplastic bushings are. You want them to be as firm as possible for the rear which needs a much larger sway bar. The EE bar is ideal, and that's with the stock rubber end links. Those are 1.125", so the 1" bar you found is getting close.

Here's a link to the full end link with the blue bushings, Moog from Amazon. For lowering I'm aiming to find shorter links and use the first bushings only kits.
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000EQ8VKQ/?tag=serious-20

The sway bars need to be level at ride height, the arm part. As the height changes a lot, the end link needs to change length to match.

 

[XploderPhil]

Some of the parts are starting to come in

Spark plugs, front and rear diff oil, ATF for transfercase, and a bottle of PS fluid I've had forever,

Ford transmission pan gasket

Some transmission fluid, Mercon V

Lower ball joints, inner tie rods, and caster camber kits. Yes they are AC Delco, but I'm impressed and $15 per pair

Negative battery cable end, PCV grommet, PCV valve, Negative battery cable cover.
The blue packages are speaker wiring pigtails ( I've had for 4yrs along with speaker) they plug into the speaker connector so you don't have to cut the wiring

. Upper and lower intake gaskets. The box behind has right side cowl panel, the others side is on the way

Outer tie rod ends, steering rack bellows and one upper control arm.

I still have a lot more parts on the way.

 

[XploderPhil]

Here's a link to the Moog rear end link bushing kit; https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000C55ZW6/?tag=serious-20

Thanks for the info Don, I'm actually going to use Prothane bushing in the front and rear suspension, plus the springs. I'll have to wait and see the rear sway bar angle after I replaced it and lower the rig.

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000V53QBE/?tag=serious-20

I found this in other post and stated that it fits the explorer rear sway bar when lowered

 

[swshawaii]

Here's a link to the Moog rear end link bushing kit; https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000C55ZW6/?tag=serious-20

I'm not sure how firm those thermoplastic bushings are. You want them to be as firm as possible for the rear which needs a much larger sway bar. The EE bar is ideal, and that's with the stock rubber end links. Those are 1.125", so the 1" bar you found is getting close.

Here's a link to the full end link with the blue bushings, Moog from Amazon. For lowering I'm aiming to find shorter links and use the first bushings only kits.
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000EQ8VKQ/?tag=serious-20

The sway bars need to be level at ride height, the arm part. As the height changes a lot, the end link needs to change length to match.

Don, after lot's of trial and error, the Moog K80268 rear end links were the correct offset and almost perfect length for my 3 inch rear drop. However, the pressed in bushings must be removed and replaced. I used the poly flange bushings and sleeves from the ES 4.5153G kit. IIRC, the bushing halves and sleeves are sold separately.

Rear Sway Bar End Link Length

FINAL SOLUTION (See link on bottom) Does the stock 91-94 use the eyelet style or the bayonet stud type rear end link? Offset distance and overall length would be very helpful. Trying to restore the sway bar back to level after a 3" drop. Can't find for sale, pics, or info anywhere. TIA Pic...

www.explorerforum.com

 

[CDW6212R]

Thanks, that K80268 end link length looks right. I figured they did make other lengths like the originals. I see someone tried to put that on an Excursion, I think he guessed wrong.

 

[swshawaii]

Pics to show K80268 offset and length.