Moog PS End Link Bushings Downgraded?

[J_C]

I bought a pair of Moog K700542 Problem Solver front end links on Rockauto. It appears as though they have downgraded the bushings.

What they claim is polyurethane, and picture solid bushings like the following:

What I received instead, looks like they tried to downgrade to thermoplastic, found them too stiff, so they removed material. Combined with the oversized hole for their "problem solver barrel nut" on all (not just one of the bushings as would be needed), half the bushing isn't there:

Has anyone received this style from Moog and had good or bad results with it? I could put them on and see how they do but will probably get some Energy Suspension 9.8105G to put on the Moog rod... If I'd known they were hollow now then I'd just have bought a cheaper 7/16" bolt kit and gotten the 9.8103G like swshawaii did here:

http://www.explorerforum.com/forums/index.php?threads/sway-bar-links.325617/#post-2791778

Probably not worth the hassle and postage to return to Rockauto. Autozone has the 9.8105G for $11 with free shipping right now:
http://www.autozone.com/suspension-...nk/energy-suspension-sway-bar-link/355331_0_0

 

[swshawaii]

Surprised their hasn't been more interest from this thread considering front OE end links are one of the most common failures with Explorers and other vehicles. Maybe you were the first on EF to get this surprise. Looking at the pics, Moog ruined a reliable part without informing anyone. Only complaint I've seen for Moog's newer end link design is regarding hardware corrosion, not the poly bushings. Upgrading to the ES 3/8" poly grommets is a good idea. Only concern is the difference of bushing heights and possible bolt threading issues.

rusty Moog K700542 endlink - after 20 months | Ford Explorer and Ford Ranger Forums - Serious Explorations

 

[J_C]

Yeah if I do that, their bolt really is 3/8" and that special problem solver barrel nut would thread on easily if they were only a little different height, but that barrel nut makes it a larger diameter, one bushing needs a larger diameter center than 3/8" for it to fit.

What I might end up doing is using the ES 3/8" on all positions except the barrel nut end, use the pictured white moog bushing there then if it doesn't last, I still have 6 spares to swap in, or enlarge the I.D. of the remaining two spare ES bushings. Either that or I probably have regular sway bar link washers and nuts lying around somewhere.

Rust is an issue around here so whatever I use, I'll silicone grease it. If I do use the moog hollow bushing then I'm contemplating sealing it with caulking or RTV sealant so water doesn't pool inside.

Ugh, why did they have to turn a simple thing into BS? I'd have paid more for a complete set with good bushings and stainless hardware.

 

[koda2000]

I recently bought 2 sets (4) of these end-links from RA and the bushings are like those in the first pic you provided. The bushing you received are not only molded differently, but the material looks different (white as compared to translucent).

I don't understand why Moog would change the bushings. If it ain't broke don't fix it.

 

[swshawaii]

JC, since the 3/8" ES 9.8105 bushing kit comes with washers, why not use a conventional lock nut? Providing the bolts are long enough, may need to cut more bolt threads. Agree with you both, newer Moog bushings look like cheap Chinese crap.

 

[koda2000]

JC, since the 3/8" ES 9.8105 bushing kit comes with washers, why not use a conventional lock nut? Providing the bolts are long enough, may need to cut more bolt threads. Agree with you both, newer Moog bushings look like cheap Chinese crap.

Agreed, the new bushings look like cheap crap. I'm glad I bought mine when I did. I would have been very disappointed if I'd received a set with the new bushings.

 

[toypaseo]

This makes me want to snag a pair before all the new stock turns into that plastic junk...

 

[J_C]

The funny thing is, the last pair of links I put on were from Autozone with a lifetime warranty, but Autozone uses disappearing ink.

Original receipt scan. I swear there really is a receipt here, lol:

They might be able to look it up in their system since it's still the same address and tel. #. I tried enhancing contrast on it but it's looking like a lost cause.

 

[koda2000]

As long as they took you phone number at the time of purchase you don't need the receipt. Your purchase remains in their computer, but yes those thermal receipts do disappear. If I buy something I'm concerned about I make a copy of thermal receipts.

 

[J_C]

Since they're cheap, I decided to give the !@#$ moog bushings a chance. That and I just wanted to Get It Done.

Step 1: Get out angle grinder. If you live in the salted snow belt, it's an automotive tool.
Step 2: Sheer the bolts with a wrench. This is normal and okay because I was replacing the sway bar bushings too so the whole thing came off. You just expect that.
Step 3: Take sway bar off. It's the course of least resistance and I wanted/ordered new bushings for it anyway.
Step 4: Angle grinder and wire wheel away all that offends me.
Step 5: Lather silicone grease on everything moog.
Step 6: Get the replacement crap from Autozone. I hope to never use it, was why I needed an angle grinder even after sheering off the bolt, because the spacer tube was impossibly rusted on. Even so, they honored the warranty based on my phone #, so they deserve a little credit for that.

Step 7: Beer run to test new moog crap bushings. They survived the 3 mile trip.
Step 8: Measure Autozone bolt, it is 7/16".

Time will tell about the moog bushing. I can't say it made any noticeable difference over expectations, when the primary reason I started this was that the autozone bushing blew out so there was that extra suspension travel and noise. My front end is tighter but with an intact bushing plus the new sway bar bushings, I think it's a wash and more a matter of how long it lasts.

Maybe I'm set for a while but if nothing else, the Autozone bolts will better accommodate the ES 9.8103 bushings.

lol at Moog's concept of Problem Solver. Holding a bushing on while I tighten a nut is the last problem I'd ever have.

 

[boominXplorer]

I don't like the new moog links. I put a set on my wife's explorer about 6 months ago and she recently said it feels loose. I look under and there wasn't a trace of an endlink on the passenger side. Now when I install them the bolt comes down from the top and nut on the bottom so of it ever does loosen up most of it stays there. The only way I could have lost one is the bolt head popped off. I feel the quality in the bolt has dropped off and with them only being a 5/16 bolt it's a weak setup to begin with.

 

[toypaseo]

I don't like the new moog links. I put a set on my wife's explorer about 6 months ago and she recently said it feels loose. I look under and there wasn't a trace of an endlink on the passenger side.

One of my Moog endlinks was 100% missing also, maybe even the same side...

 

[96eb96]

The funny thing is, the last pair of links I put on were from Autozone with a lifetime warranty, but Autozone uses disappearing ink.

Original receipt scan. I swear there really is a receipt here, lol:


They might be able to look it up in their system since it's still the same address and tel. #. I tried enhancing contrast on it but it's looking like a lost cause.

AZ found stuff I bought in 97, in that case a fan motor that went into three similar cars over the years. I was even honest with them, they said no problem. He went to the back and pulled a new box. If you have the phone number you will get a replacement.

I don't like ES hardware, the use the thinner bolt (not 7/16). Also I got grade 5 and grade 8 hardware. I packed the sleeves with grease but I know it will rot out eventually. Their bushings are excellent though.

 

[J_C]

One thing I noticed about the moog barrel nut is it's not locking, depends entirely on friction against the bushing it sits on. I thought about putting a locknut on after it but their instructions say to tighten only to "two to three threads exposed above the nut". I have concerns that if I tighten it enough to get the locknut on that it might cause premature bushing failure.

I could have put some threadlock on but didn't think about it at the time and put a blob of silicone grease over the exposed end, which will be near impossible to get off without pulling the whole thing off and a PITA even then, so I'm leaving it be and will check the tightness a few times over coming weeks.

 

[koda2000]

AZ found stuff I bought in 97, in that case a fan motor that went into three similar cars over the years. I was even honest with them, they said no problem. He went to the back and pulled a new box. If you have the phone number you will get a replacement.

AutoZone is really good about replacing warrantied parts and they were one of the first to offer replacement on brake pads for life. Another little know advantage is that is you bought something that is warrantied and you want/need to replace it, you can upgrade and just pay the difference in price.

The best thing you can do for your AZ warranty's is to use one name and one phone number for every warranted part you purchase. People tend to use multiple phone numbers over the years and then their warranties can't be found in AZ's system. The phone number you use doesn't have to be your current phone number - it's not like they're going to use it to call you. I've been using the same phone number at AZ for 24 years.

Another trick you used to be able to use to get the best price at AZ (don't know if it's still the case) was to price your part an multiple AZ stores in your area. Where I live there was a store 16 miles away whose prices were almost always significantly lower than my local store. All I had to say to the counterman was to "check Canton's price" and I'd get the part for less. For example, on a radiator that cost $150 in my local store, the other store's price might be $125. I never figured out why they had different prices for different stores, but they did (area's population? overhead? store's P&L maybe?).

 

[J_C]

^ I haven't noticed different prices at different AZ in recent years, was always the same as the website. Before they had a website with stock & prices... I have no idea. Then again, it could be that on the website I had entered in which Autozone I was looking for stock at as "My Store" or whatever, so it pulled the prices from that one.

 

[koda2000]

^ I haven't noticed different prices at different AZ in recent years, was always the same as the website. Before they had a website with stock & prices... I have no idea. Then again, it could be that on the website I had entered in which Autozone I was looking for stock at as "My Store" or whatever, so it pulled the prices from that one.

I don't know if the website would show different prices. Maybe all there prices are the same now. IDK. Still worth a phone call though.

 

[koda2000]

I don't know if the website would show different prices. Maybe all there prices are the same now. IDK. Still worth a phone call though.

As an exercise I tried looking up the price of a radiator on AZ's website and it showed a price of $199.99. I then called that store and was quoted the same price. I then I called my local store and was quote $171.99. Assuming my local store looked up the right part, that's quite a difference in price.

 

[J_C]

Hmm, that is a significant difference. I just looked up a radiator for mine and AZ' site shows just one for $202. Rock Auto and Amazon conspicuously both want the same $141.78 delivered for the same part, but with a 24 mo. warranty through Spectra instead of lifetime through AZ.

 

[koda2000]

Hmm, that is a significant difference. I just looked up a radiator for mine and AZ' site shows just one for $202. Rock Auto and Amazon conspicuously both want the same $141.78 delivered for the same part, but with a 24 mo. warranty through Spectra instead of lifetime through AZ.

Not that we're talking radiators here, but the CSF rads I've installed in my 5.0's also come with a 2 year warranty and currently list for $106 shipped (I paid even less).