More problems after 0012m upper/lower manafold gasket, Tentioner kit fix | Ford Explorer Forums - Serious Explorations

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More problems after 0012m upper/lower manafold gasket, Tentioner kit fix

cjmedina

Well-Known Member
Joined
April 20, 2008
Messages
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City, State
Central New Jersey
Year, Model & Trim Level
3 Explorers 01,99,99
The vehicle has been one big head ace.

I bought the kit, cleaned all the parts and then installed but had a problem with the lower therm housing. The sensor would not tighten because the busing was spinning in the hosing. Ford wanted $320 for it! I found a thread that said I could upgrade to the 2002 version for...about $100.

There was one thing I noticed about the tentioner fix. I could not put that piece in the galley plug because there was something blocking the hole which I thought maybe the job had been done before so I just replaced the tentioner. The old one only moved in and out about 1/4"...Anyway, I was very careful putting the new gaskets in place and made sure as much I could that it was all assembled correctly.

When I first started the engine I heard the chain rattle which I never bad before. It Lasted a few seconds and went away. There also sounded like a bad air leak somewhere then it started running real bad then stalled!

It won't start now!!!

I'm wonder it the chain broke....


Any advise with trouble shooting?



CJ
 



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Check vacuum hose connections

Did you install the "keepers" on the hose connections identified by the red arrows in the photo below.
VacHose1.jpg
 






Yes the keeper are there but I will have ti check that the hose is all the way up...

What are those lines for?
 






I have to get this vehicle fixed.
 






To the Fuel Vapor Management Valve

Yes the keeper are there but I will have ti check that the hose is all the way up...

What are those lines for?

They combine into a single hose that goes to the fuel vapor management valve located below and forward of the battery compartment.
 






Both hoses are up and in with retainers.....


CJ
 






I did not like the way the upper manifold screws go through the manifold. There is no clearance.

I'm wondering if the screws were holding the manifold from seating all the way down????


CJ
 






There was one thing I noticed about the tentioner fix. I could not put that piece in the galley plug because there was something blocking the hole which I thought maybe the job had been done before

CJ

I am guessing your restrictor was in the hole. When I checked mine the "swizzle stick" oil restictor was down in the galley hole. I used a piece of small fuel line (snowmobile primer hose) and put it in the hole then sucked on the tube and extracted the old part. It was in good condition, so I cleaned it and re-installed it.
 






I did not like the way the upper manifold screws go through the manifold. There is no clearance.

I'm wondering if the screws were holding the manifold from seating all the way down????


CJ
 






I removed the upper intake.

I noticed wet fuel on the matting surfaces.

I drilled out the screw holes on the top so the screws don't bind on the manifold. This way I'm sure the manifold is being torqued done to the block correctly.

I reinstalled the upper manifold. The vehicle ran for a few seconds and stalled!

I heard a noice from the engine....not sure if it was the chain.


I'm wondering if the replacement chain tentioner has anything to do with my problem.

The engine was running fine except for the rough start when cold and that was only for a few seconds before I did this project!

I'm wondering if it jumped timing??????


I pulled one plug and it had compression......



Help!!!!!
 






Chain slip unlikely

In my opinion it is extremely unlikely that your chain slipped because you replaced the left front tensioner. Both times that you assembled the intake manifolds the engine started right up and then died. I think your problem is either fuel or vacuum related.

When you performed the 00M12 installation did you follow mikeh's instructions that are linked in the first post of my thread? Remember my thread is only a supplement to his instructions. Here's the link for your easy reference:
98 Cold Start Idle Problem

Recheck all of the vacuum hose connections.
 






EVR vacuum connection

Make sure that you've reconnected the vacuum lines to the EVR as identified with the arrows in the photo below.
EGRVReg.JPG

I assume that you connected the other end (large hose with 3 internal hoses) to the upper intake manifold.

Make sure that you have a good electrical connection to the IAC valve and the TPS.

The upper intake manifold binds on the large O ring that seals the EGR tube. You have to wiggle the manifold from side to side to get it to drop into position.

Did you press all of the gaskets into the grooves?
 






Here are some pictures for reference:

ftp://cj136.gotdns.com/files2/Explorer/Headace/

I opened the top hole so there was clearance for the screw which was binding at the top. Ypou can see ther was wet fuel at the matting surface so it looks like the manifold was not down the first time but it's done this time but It still won't run!

Not to complicate the issue but the vehicle has a crimestopper/remote start device installed which I want to remove. I wonder if that,s part of my problems!

I wanted to get some codes and now I'm not communicating with the CPU???????

I don't know if that was before or after i started removing the device. I did start and the stalled ounce and then would not after it stalled My mirror lights are on all the time now. I disconnected the Battery for now.

So now I have troubleshoot some wiring.

Good thing I'm an Electronics Tech and now you are an Engineer like my Dad.



Have to get out the wiring diagrams.


I hope the problem does not have to do with that harness under the lower intake.....



Any Ideas next?


Thanks for your Help....




CJ
 






PCM connector & PCV intake

I see from the photos the hose clamps you added to eliminate leaks.

Did you disconnect the PCM connector to make it easier to remove and install the manifold bolts? If so, are you sure that it is firmly (but not too tight) reconnected?

Did you disconnect the engine main electrical harness plug? Are you sure that it is firmly reconnected?

I saw the IAC valve electrical connector is installed. What about the TPS connector?

When you try to start the engine, is the main intake tube with MAF sensor installed? Is the electrical connector to the MAF sensor connected? Is the air hose from the IAC valve to the main intake tube connected? Is the PCV supply hose from the main intake tube to the right valve cover connected?

It complicates things when you change more things at the same time. Altering the crimestopper/remote start before getting the engine running adds more variables. Do you have a 2000 wiring diagram? The one in my Haynes manual is very incomplete.
 






Yes, I had to remove and place the CPU harness out of the way. I made sure there were nothing in the way of installing the manifolds.

I did not need to disconnect the main harness plug.

All proper connectors are connected.


This engine should have started and run fine.

I have the 2000 truck ford manual on disk...REALLY GOOD INFO.

I printed out all electrical schematics and pin outs. I'll be troubleshooting tomorrow.

Let me know if you would like a copy of the CD. It's for XP or lower.



CJ
 






Flooded?

Maybe the engine was flooded from not starting when the intake manifold wasn't seated properly. You mentioned that you found wet fuel. In the future, after you get the electrical problems resolved, if you think the engine is flooded depress the accelerator all the way to the floor after switching the ignition ON. The PCM will detect WOT at engine start and cut the fuel to the injectors.

Did you connect the electrical connector to the engine coolant temperature sensor?
 






Something is very strange because this engine should of run the second time.

Maybe this remote start has something to do with it. For sure I can't start it now because I tried to see the codes but there is no com to the computer????????

I'm looking in to why there is no communications to the CPU.

I'm going through the connections at the remote start unit. There are many connections to the ignition connector. Good thing they soldered the connections and they are taps in parallel so I will cut and tape.

When the battery is connected my mirror lights are on now????


Did you want a copy of that CD?


CJ
 






I'm looking in to why there is no communications to the CPU.

CJ

Verify at the connector: (use your diagrams from the CD).

-12V+ at the OBD connector
-continuity from the obd connector to the PCM harness at the PCM.
-ground



Looks like one of those wires may have been butchered or a fuse is blown.
 






OK Here's the latest.............


The ELM327 OBDII went bad....I tried it on another Explorer. So there is communication to the CPU.

I tried starting the vehicle. It started and then stalled....But a lot of noise/clicking was coming from the new Tensioner???????????

New: ftp://cj136.gotdns.com/files2/Explorer/Headace/DSCN8277.JPG

Old: ftp://cj136.gotdns.com/files2/Explorer/Headace/DSCN8280.JPG

Ounce it stalls, I can't restart.

Looks like I will have to strip it down again!!!!...even the lower manifold looking for something screwy!

I WONDER WHY I HEAR SO MUCH NOISE/CLICKING FROM THE TENSIONER?????????



UPDATE:

I removed the upper manifold.....Still wet in spots....... ftp://cj136.gotdns.com/files/Explorer/Headace/Still_Leaking/DSCN8289.JPG

And the lower was even worse! ftp://cj136.gotdns.com/files2/Explorer/Headace/Still_Leaking/DSCN8282.JPG

ftp://cj136.gotdns.com/files2/Explorer/Headace/Still_Leaking/DSCN8284.JPG

ftp://cj136.gotdns.com/files2/Explorer/Headace/Still_Leaking/DSCN8286.JPG

STRANGE! I was very careful installing and they were tourque correctly to right value in sequence!

What am I missing here?


Also why the clicking from the tensioner?


I REMOVED THE TENSIONER....WILL I HURT ANYTHING IF I CRANK THE MOTOR TO SEE IF THE NOISE GOES AWAY WITH IT REMOVED?

All recent photos...... ftp://cj136.gotdns.com/files2/Explorer/Headace/Still_Leaking/


MUCH HELP NEEDED




Thanks,



CJ









CJ
 



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Cd

Thanks for the offer CD offer CJ but that's OK. I guess I'm old school and like flipping pages. I picked up a used 2000 wiring diagram book on eBay for $10. I keep watching for more books.

The photo of the newly installed tensioner looks normal. Did you remove the old O ring and install a new O ring with the new tensioner? The oil port on the tensioner is close to the inner surface of the head. If you left the old O ring in place on the head and added the new one then the oil port might be restricted.

Is the ELM327 your code reader? Are you saying that you can or can't communicate with your vehicle? It would be nice to be able to read the codes before removing the intake manifolds.
 






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