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More problems after 0012m upper/lower manafold gasket, Tentioner kit fix

Thank you Dale for the as always detailed information. I haven't done any more on removing the engine in a few days. Maybe by the weekend I will have it out. I will let everybody know what I find. I will take plenty of pictures.

BTW

I have 4 vehicles....2 1999's and the one that broke, a 2001. All with the SOHC:(

After what happened I get nervous every time they go to start the engine!

I'm driving a 91 cougar with 160K as the back up.


Cliff
 



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You have to be kidding

Is this the way way you get at the flywheel to converter bolts?

ftp://cj136.gotdns.com/files2/Explorer/DSCN8543.JPG

ftp://cj136.gotdns.com/files2/Explorer/DSCN8544.JPG


This looks a little different:

ftp://cj136.gotdns.com/files2/Explorer/WiteOut.jpg


I can just about get my hand in there and when I try to loosen the bolt the flywheel turns so I have to lock it down. I'm using a 3/8 ratchet and I can get it to budge!



Why does everything have to be so darn difficult working on this truck?


CJ
 












Now I found this damage on the vehicle...

Compressor and lines will need to be replaced because someone didn't install it correctly!

ftp://cj136.gotdns.com/files2/Explorer/DSCN8550.JPG

ftp://cj136.gotdns.com/files2/Explorer/DSCN8551.JPG


GEEEEEG....What next


CJ


You should be able to fix that, the O-ring makes the seal. Bend the ring back or just cut off the bent part. Dont forget to plug those lines while the system is open. You dont want moisture getting in.

Bob
 






That's the process

Is this the way way you get at the flywheel to converter bolts?

ftp://cj136.gotdns.com/files2/Explorer/DSCN8543.JPG

ftp://cj136.gotdns.com/files2/Explorer/DSCN8544.JPG


This looks a little different:

ftp://cj136.gotdns.com/files2/Explorer/WiteOut.jpg


I can just about get my hand in there and when I try to loosen the bolt the flywheel turns so I have to lock it down. I'm using a 3/8 ratchet and I can get it to budge!



Why does everything have to be so darn difficult working on this truck?


CJ

There is a thin plate that fits between the engine block and the transmission that restricts access. It also can be a pain when installing the engine if it slips out of position.

To keep the crank from turning I loosely installed the viscous clutch and tied my breaker bar handle to the clutch.
Clutch.jpg
 






Not Fixable

That one port is rounded over and crushed. I don't see how I can bend it back the way it is.

ftp://cj136.gotdns.com/files2/Explorer/DSCN8552.JPG


Also that line that runs across the bottom has a badly rusted area.

ftp://cj136.gotdns.com/files2/Explorer/DSCN8553.JPG


How do I disconnect this part?

ftp://cj136.gotdns.com/files2/Explorer/DSCN8554.JPG


I have a rebuilt compressor I bought a few years ago for a 93 Explorer but never used. It's a FS10 and looks the same. I guess it's good to use?



And I'm wonder why this vehicle has so much rust. Makes me wonder if this vehicle was in a flood?????

ftp://cj136.gotdns.com/files2/Explorer/DSCN8555.JPG

ftp://cj136.gotdns.com/files2/Explorer/DSCN8556.JPG

ftp://cj136.gotdns.com/files2/Explorer/DSCN8557.JPG

ftp://cj136.gotdns.com/files2/Explorer/DSCN8558.JPG

CJ
 






There is a thin plate that fits between the engine block and the transmission that restricts access. It also can be a pain when installing the engine if it slips out of position.

To keep the crank from turning I loosely installed the viscous clutch and tied my breaker bar handle to the clutch.
View attachment 59135


I was able to get a 3/8 socket wrench in there. Maybe 2" of room to swing but I can't break the nut loose. The book says it's 26 ft/lbs. I have to get more leverage.

Cliff
 












Is this the way way you get at the flywheel to converter bolts?

ftp://cj136.gotdns.com/files2/Explorer/DSCN8543.JPG

ftp://cj136.gotdns.com/files2/Explorer/DSCN8544.JPG


This looks a little different:

ftp://cj136.gotdns.com/files2/Explorer/WiteOut.jpg


I can just about get my hand in there and when I try to loosen the bolt the flywheel turns so I have to lock it down. I'm using a 3/8 ratchet and I can get it to budge!



Why does everything have to be so darn difficult working on this truck?


CJ

I did mine almost the same way. Only I used a much longer extension. Long enough that the ratchet was in front of the motor.
 






I did mine almost the same way. Only I used a much longer extension. Long enough that the ratchet was in front of the motor.

Thanks SNORANGER,

I was able to do it that way with a couple of 3/8" extensions. But I still had to put a pipe over the wrench for more leverage. Someone said the nuts are not that tight so you could do it with a 1/4" drive...NO WAY! The book says 26 ft/lb's

I also had to remove the starter for a little more room. When I did that the smaller connector on the positive side going to the starter broke off. I also noticed that the nut for the positive cable was very loose and the top passenger side bell housing bolt was missing which was not hard to get at.

The more I delve into this vehicle the more I wonder about it's history???

I'm beginning to think it was put together with junk yard parts and dumped and I was the lucky sole!

I have the car facts which said it was Fleet owned until 2005 then someone bought it until it was REPOED and soled to auction and then to a used car lot ????

The other thing is the amount of rust makes me wonder if it was a flood vehicle???

Also should I remove the trans and transfer case to be checked out?


There are some more connectors that have to get at. How do I get at the one behind the engine because there is no room.



:(:(:(Cliff
 






Disconnecting O2 sensor connectors

. . . There are some more connectors that have to get at. How do I get at the one behind the engine because there is no room.

:(:(:(Cliff

If you're referring to the O2 sensor connectors, if you can't release them by reaching thru the wheel openings then you can wait until the engine is disconnected from the tansmission and moved forward an inch or two. The connectors are clipped to the rear of the engine.
O2Cnx.jpg
 






Thanks Dale,

That is what I was thinking. It looks like I can get at them when I start to pull the engine out.

How did you get those heads to look so good?

CJ
 






According to my GM V-6 rebuilding book modern valve seats are typically ground at an angle one degree different than the valve face to ensure a good seal. Then the seats are cut at 3 angles to ensure adequate flow around the valves. Lapping the valves destroys the interference edge achieved with the 3 angle cut and is not recommended.

If your valve was bent due to contacting the piston then the seat is not necessarily damaged. A new valve should come with the proper angle on the face to result in an interference edge with the seat. I think the main concern is if the bending of the stem damaged the guide. On the GM V-6 if the valve guide is damaged a machine shop must ream out the guide and then install a bronze-silicon insert. Valve guides are usually very durable.


Dale these are the specs listed in ALLDATA....Valve and seat:

I only see the 45 degree?




Cliff
 






I would have brought over the tool the other day...

cjmedina said:
.....Massacusettes..
 






Need more room forward

The boom is going to be about 5" short of the center of the engine and I think I will have to lower the truck to clear the engine over the front support. Right now it's at 43" from floor. Looks like I will have to remove the bumper and run the boom chain out the front opening.


DSC_0140.JPG


DSC_0141.JPG



Cliff
 






Altering the boom chain position

I tried setting my engine in the engine compartment today with the chain coming out the end of the boom and it made a huge difference. It increased the chain drop point by more than the distance than that to the end of the boom by half of a chain link. I was not able to swap the orientation of the hydraulic cylinder because of lack of clearance. It was lower than the body anyway and would not have gained anything except increasing the range of the pump lever. However, if your crane is the same as mine you may not have to remove the bumper to get the engine out because it will pull the engine away from the transmission but you may have to remove the bumper to get the engine back in. It looks like your bumper sticks out less than mine. I know that you're not looking forward to loosening those 4 rusty bumper bolts.
ShrtBoom.jpg
 






if your crane is the same as mine you may not have to remove the bumper to get the engine out because it will pull the engine away from the transmission but you may have to remove the bumper to get the engine back in. It looks like your bumper sticks out less than mine. I know that you're not looking forward to loosening those 4 rusty bumper bolts.

Yes,....removing the bumper is not a problem except for the amount of rust. I haven't look at the fasteners yet but I bet it don't look good.

Ican remove the license plate and holder for an inch or 2


Do you know how low I have to get the vehicle to clear the oil pan? It's 43" to that edge.
 






Measurements

Measurements for my configuration:

top of radiator support/enclosure to garage floor: 42 1/2 inches

bottom of boom tip to top of lower intake manifold: 17 1/4 inches

boom tip to hydraulic piston rod pivot: 37 inches

I was able to lift the engine with it tilted lower in the rear completely clear of the oil pan. You should not have any problems if you keep your lift chains short enough.
 






Measurements

Thanks for taking the time to get those measurements Dale.

The height is the same with the vehicle sitting on the tires.

The front end is a little higher then normal because of the weight that was removed.

Hopefully I will have the engine out this weekend


Thanks,


Cliff
 



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Ok, I wasn't able to use the chains that came with the hoist. I was gonging to buy another chain but I saw a package of 50' of 3/16" 850lb Cable for $17 at Homedepot. I already had fasteners to make the eye's. I ran the cable around exhaust ports 3 and 4 and made sure the boom was close to the engine. The distance of the boom is 11" from base of lower intake.. I also ran the chain out the end of the boom. I'm concerned about that link because the force on it is on the middle sides of the link rather the normal end. Also I'm concerned about the force being exerted on the sides of the cast aluminum valve covers.

What do you think?



DSCN8566.JPG




DSCN8572.JPG



CJ
 






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