More questions regarding an Engine Swap 3.5 to 3.7 I am planning. | Ford Explorer Forums - Serious Explorations

  • Register Today It's free!

More questions regarding an Engine Swap 3.5 to 3.7 I am planning.

LordTerriikk

Member
Joined
September 14, 2022
Messages
30
Reaction score
8
City, State
Albuquerque
Year, Model & Trim Level
2011 Ford Explorer XLT
Here is a link to the original post I am asking questions on: Engine Swap 3.5 to PI 3.7 successfully (Felt no need to flood that thread more)
I've been searching for a replacement engine for my 2011 Ford Explorer XLT. I'm likely going to use a 3.7 pulled from a Police Interceptor Utility (I'm avoiding the non transverse engines) I'm going to replace the water pump on the engine I receive. I read that some after market water pumps have a dual gasket design. I either cannot find em or I am too blind to see em, and was hoping for suggestions on this, and one other suggestion I am seeking, should I worry about replacing gaskets on the used engine? The engine I am looking at is at 68k miles, and if there is anything else I need to do to ensure I'm giving the engine the best chance at a long life. Ya'll have been incredibly good with advice so far, and I want to thank everyone in advanced, ya'll are helping me keep my Grandpa's Explorer on the road!
 



Join the Elite Explorers for $20 each year.
Elite Explorer members see no advertisements, no banner ads, no double underlined links,.
Add an avatar, upload photo attachments, and more!
.





 






Alright, I am going to attempt this with the help of a relative. I'll post the results when its done for posterity/anyone else with as many questions as me. I've been informed it could be a few days or weeks. Thanks again Josh for all the help you gave!
 






Alright, I am going to attempt this with the help of a relative. I'll post the results when its done for posterity/anyone else with as many questions as me. I've been informed it could be a few days or weeks. Thanks again Josh for all the help you gave!
Glad to help. Post pictures of the swap, it will help the next guy.
 






Hi, me again! Sorry for the delayed updates, we were unable to start until recently. We are having difficulty removing the old engine. It'd unbolted, but won't come free of the transmission. My cousins theory is it might be bolted to the front axle, but I thought I'd ask here. Once it's done I'll post with experiences (and pictures) I will say I understand why thr scrap yard cut the wiring harness instead of removing it, but I conquered that hahahahahahahahaahhaha
 






Those are really bad about having the center hub on the torque converter being seized to the crank shaft, they can be a real PITA to separate. There is a carrier type bearing for the right front axle that's bolted to the engine, is yours AWD? there's also a transmission bolt that's impossible to get to if you don't have the PTU pulled.
 






Those are really bad about having the center hub on the torque converter being seized to the crank shaft, they can be a real PITA to separate. There is a carrier type bearing for the right front axle that's bolted to the engine, is yours AWD? there's also a transmission bolt that's impossible to get to if you don't have the PTU pulled.
It is AWD. The image I attached is how it looks as of two hours ago

20221106_170856.jpg
 






Is it loose from the transmission at all? I'm a ford technician and I know most folks don't have access to a hoist, but I've always pulled those out through the bottom and split them apart on a worktable built to handle drivetrains.
 






I can jiggle them a bit with a bar and a piece of wood, and my cousin informed me that it's unbolted from the transmission. We are not sure if there is another bolt we are missing or not. We noticed in the new engine there are divets (I'm assuming that's the right name for em) that we assume we need to free it from. I didn't take a picture of the new engine so I took a picture from another engine to point out what my cousin pointed out to me. Sorry for a ****ty phone picture, my phone can attach files but my computer xa not.

20221106_192451.jpg
 






Yea those are the alignment dowels those can be seized up as well.
 






Is there a trick we can use to free the engine or do I need to strongman it?
 






If everything is loose for sure, then you're down to strong arming it apart with a couple of pry bars. Just start going back and forth between the front and back will be a pain with it coming out of the top.
 






If everything is loose for sure, then you're down to strong arming it apart with a couple of pry bars. Just start going back and forth between the front and back will be a pain with it coming out of the top.
I'll ask him to double check all the bolting then. We just gotta get this out. The new water pump in the new engine and then the new engine in.
 






Just noticed that you're in Albuquerque I lived up in Famington from 1998-2011
 






Just noticed that you're in Albuquerque I lived up in Famington from 1998-2011
I've been to Farmington once or twice. My Mom's side lived there for a while. My dad's side was Acoma and Jewish. Quite funny in my opinion
 






Edit: just started reading through the original engine swap thread and it stated the engine will come out the top. I will leave this guideline up in case there are more things that will be replaced/rebuilt/resealed and removing everything from the front of the vehicle makes more sense.

Not a Ford tech, but I do have a lot of auto tech experience.

That doesn’t look like it will fit out the top, like bronconut says. You might be able to fit it out the top of the radiator/fan assembly and radiator support are removed(I’m not sure how far the radiator support comes apart but bit seems like that will be necessary

I have experience in a body shop and removing front drivetrains for frame rail replacements. Before I was able to get our engine lift table from another shop I had to remove a few engine/trans/front suspension complete assemblies with a floor jack and engine hoist. It can be done but it’s very annoying. I can outline the steps below.

The vehicles I did this to in the body shop already had everything removed from the front by the body guys, I was just there to perform the large mechanical operations. Things like front bumper/support, radiator support, radiator, cooling fans, most of the time the a/c system was already evacuated and condenser removed. I told you this was going to be annoying…

*You will need lots of room in front of the vehicle to maneuver the front half of the vehicle around once it’s loose. Plan accordingly

1) disconnect battery
2) remove any relevant plastic coverings; above and below the engine
3) disable fuel pump and disconnect fuel line
4) remove as few electrical connectors and/or vacuum lines as possible. Trust me, there will be enough **** to keep track of. Don’t make any more work for yourself until it’s absolutely needed
5) drain as much coolant as possible. The less mess you have underfoot, the better. Again, trust me
6) remove coolant hoses. DO NOT FORGET the hoses at the firewall to the heater core
7) evacuate a/c system freon and disconnect lines from compressor. The compressor can be removed from its bracket and secured as out of the way as possible but it’s better to just remove the lines. If you choose this way, don’t forget the compressor clutch connector
8) raise the vehicle as much as possible and remove front wheels. Obviously a lift is ideal but it can be done on a driveway or garage floor. Remember, you will need to secure the front of the vehicle somewhere else besides the subframe. That’s going for a ride as well
9) disconnect exhaust somewhere, somehow. The easiest thing to do is just remove the exhaust system(leave the manifolds, remove everything else) entirely but you need to make that decision based on your situation
10) I try to work from rear to front. Disconnect any electrical connectors that are connected to the vehicle-transmission control unit connector, O2 sensors, vehicle speed sensors, ground wires come readily to mine. The few that I did this way were BMW X3’s so the engines were longitudinally oriented
11) disconnect rear driveshaft, if applicable
12) slightly loosen rear transmission mount enough to be easily removed while laying on the floor in an uncomfortable position and reaching around a floor jack(a few steps ahead)
13) disconnect front struts from shock towers. Whether this is a Macpherson strut assembly or separate strut/springs
14) disconnect steering knuckle from upper control arm, if applicable
15) remove brake calipers and secure out of the way, somehow. It’s much less messy that just disconnecting the brake lines. Ask me how I know…
16) slightly loosen front subframe bolts. Same premise as transmission mount
17) it’s about to get very real, if it wasn’t before
18) connect engine hoist to engine however it attaches. Raise just enough to put firm upward pressure on subframe. Remove front subframe bolts
19) place floor jack underneath rear transmission mount and raise just enough to completely support rear of assembly. Remove rear transmission bolts
20) alright, everything should be loose from the vehicle. Lower front and rear slowly and only a few inches for now.
21) take your time, inspect for anything still attached. I can almost guarantee you left some tiny little ground wire attached.
22) lower everything a little more and move forward, away from the vehicle.
23) once you determine everything is disconnected, move the whole mess somewhere and place on wood blocks, jack stands, old tires, whatever you have to support it.
24) and now you can continue with your engine replacement…
 






Would be much easier to drop the front subframe and then slide it out as an assembly. Ive seen it done on the SHO forums but the car was on large jack stands but its definitely possible without a lift
 






were you successful in this swap?
 






I am back! The swap is in! I still have some problems. I have a few codes going off, and the car is feeling the symptoms. The codes are pointing to Camshaft sensors, o2 sensor, and a VVT Solenoid in bank one. I had posted in a FB group for explorers and a commenter got my anxiety up, talking about the Harness from the original engine being wrong, that they are not inter-changeable and that I might never resolve these problems. This of course is causing me anxiety, I waited seven months to get the car back, and I don't have other options. That said, could the harness be popping the codes? Is my anxiety just getting the better of me? The engine is only supposed to have 22k miles, but the vehicle it was taken out of was in a wreck. Maybe something inside is broken and it wasn't caught? Help me out.
 



Join the Elite Explorers for $20 each year.
Elite Explorer members see no advertisements, no banner ads, no double underlined links,.
Add an avatar, upload photo attachments, and more!
.





I am back! The swap is in! I still have some problems. I have a few codes going off, and the car is feeling the symptoms. The codes are pointing to Camshaft sensors, o2 sensor, and a VVT Solenoid in bank one. I had posted in a FB group for explorers and a commenter got my anxiety up, talking about the Harness from the original engine being wrong, that they are not inter-changeable and that I might never resolve these problems. This of course is causing me anxiety, I waited seven months to get the car back, and I don't have other options. That said, could the harness be popping the codes? Is my anxiety just getting the better of me? The engine is only supposed to have 22k miles, but the vehicle it was taken out of was in a wreck. Maybe something inside is broken and it wasn't caught? Help me out.
Which PCM are you using?
 






Back
Top