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More tranny problems

Igoteyedeas

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So i've been scouring the transmission section of the forum trying to find a solution a some of the problems I've been having with my tranny and can't find an exact answer so I figured I'd ask. I've got a '99 XLT 4x4 with the 5 speed (5r55e?) and the two problems i've experiencing is a shift flare from 2nd-3rd (or 3rd to 4th) and it takes around 5 seconds for my truck to engage into drive or reverse from park. Do you guys have any suggestions of parts that might need to replace to solve this problems. I really can't afford the $1800 I've been quoted to rebuild my tranny so I was hoping to get some insight from you guys. Thanks.
 



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BrooklynBay

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The shift flare, and time delay could be related to a few things like low epc pressure, bad VB gaskets, improperly torqued VB bolts, out of spec bands, clogged filter, VB, or cooler. How many miles do you have?
 






Glacier991

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Try the 5R55E Valve Body Rebuild Diary. I think you will find your answer there.
 






Igoteyedeas

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I'm at 139ish right now. I did check the rebuild diary and I came out of it more confused than I was when I began reading it. I'll go through it again and then come back.
 






Igoteyedeas

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Ok, so I'm definitly gonna need a transgo kit. Is there any other mods I can do that would help the tranny while I have the VB out? Links of where to buy would be really helpful...Thanks guys
 






BrooklynBay

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Glacier991

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The only other thing you can address with the VB out is the low reverse servo.. replacing the seals. For some that seems to address the slow to engage in 1st or reverse, but not all.

You should replace your EPC solenoid, and might not hurt to adjust the bands.

You WILL need an inch lb torque wrench. There are no shortcuts on torquing the VB bolts... as more people do this fix, I am finding those who think they can press a FT lb torque wrench into service and guestimate are wrong and have troubles.
 






Igoteyedeas

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Thanks glacier and brooklyn...you guys have been a huge help...not lets see if i can pull this off
 






Igoteyedeas

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Hey glacier, is there a write up on how much to torque the VB bolts with the inch LB touque? I am definitly going to do this but I want to have as much detail and tips as I can before I start tearin apart the tranny.
 






Glacier991

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Here was the thread on installing the VB from the A4LD Diary... the valve bodies are a little different but most of it is the same. Torque the VB is 3 or 4 passes... work up to the 90-100 inch lbs.

* * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * *
Been a long time since we rebuilt the valve body. Time finally to reinstall it. I am using thicker gaskets than stock... figure any imperfections will be less of a problem that way.

We'll remove the plate from the body which we installed to keep everything in place when we rebuilt that... and add a gasket there...

15286DSCN5024.JPG


Don't forget that there are check balls, hockey pucks and spring loaded pop up surprises under there... remove the 3 screws slowly and make sure it's level.... once the gasket is in place, add the plate back on... and reinstall and finger tighten the 3 screws...
15286DSCN5025.JPG


each finger tight, make sure the plate comes down on the spring loaded things nicely straight....

15286DSCN5028.JPG


Now we torque them to spec. With the plate in place, don;t forget to install the little TCC filter... it goes here:

15286DSCN5041.JPG


and with that in place, it's time to install..
We'll add some vaseline to help hold the other gasket in place...

15286DSCN5061.JPG


15286DSCN5062.JPG



It isn't as simple as just popping it on, as we have a linkage, the infamous Z link (or S link)... we added a mod that tightened the hole... so it takes some coaxing and patience to get it on and through... it WILL go though...

15286DSCN5029.JPG


make sure if you do the manual valve mod you do not install the Z link thru the mod with the mod backwards! Like this...

15286DSCN5051.JPG


(yeah I did). Oouch.

anyway.....then align the valve body. You can make guide pins if you like... they will make it easier, but you really do not need them for this...

But it is easier if you add 2 bolts first... as guide pins...

this one...where the spring detent will ultimately bolt in...

15286DSCN5063.JPG


and then on the opposite side....

15286DSCN5064.JPG


Add the retainer for the solenoid which is held in place by 2 bolts...
15286DSCN5050.JPG

15286DSCN5056.JPG


That done I am going to suggest you lay out the bolts.... where they go is pretty intuitive.... there are about 17 or so medium bolts total.. their holes are all at the same level... there are 5 long ones... (higher holes) a couple silver ones (bracket for solenoid)... a short one (near the spring detent) and a shortish silver one (spring detent). Laid out it's kinda easier...

15286DSCN5048.JPG


a book IS helpful but you can do without.... here are the medium 17 bolts installed.... looking down...(pin punch is pointing out hole for filter bolt... leave it vacant....)

15286DSCN5055.JPG


then I'll add tall bolts...

15286DSCN5057.JPG


then we add the short bolt...

15286DSCN5058.JPG


and then the spring detent with it's bolt...

15286DSCN5060.JPG


Mine wasn't centered on the rooster comb, so I helped it a little...

15286DSCN5076.JPG


worked like a charm.... all centered now...

Now we tighten them slowly.... going all around, never in order... but all over as far away as you can go from the last one for the next one.... tightening it down evenly.... then, once you are lightly hand tight, we'll torque them. I used 90 inch lbs...

15286DSCN5069.JPG


With the valve body installed.... time for the Low Reverse servo.... up next.
 






Igoteyedeas

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Heh, went to the local Axiom by me as well as the for dealer and racked up a $400 bill between the shift kit, gaskets, sep. plates, and new epc solenoid...wheeeeeeeeeeew. Guess I gotta wait for the next pay check.
 






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