Motor is in! Runs!....can't get over 50? | Ford Explorer Forums - Serious Explorations

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Motor is in! Runs!....can't get over 50?

ibdranger

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December 13, 2010
Messages
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City, State
The woods, Central Wisconsin
Year, Model & Trim Level
'99 Sport XLT
The adventure continues! I am having a lot of fun since I still have my Ranger to drive. So It has been a month, the motor was out, replaced the chains, figured out the timing tools. Put 'er back in.

Starts real slick. Idles real slow, 400 to 600 rpm. A little rough, not by ear, but the Ex is acquivering away and I can feel a roughness inside the cab and the motor is shaking in the mounts at idle rpm's. At 1100 or above she purrs as sweet as...........well, that is another forum. Appears to rev clean under no load, maybe a little slow.

Everything works. No leaks. Gauge says normal heat range. Tranny shifts. Fluid levels good. If all of life happened below 25 I'd be good. But when I stomp on the gas, nothing happens. I have to ease the throttle down to keep rolling. It eventually gets to 50, but it takes a lot of throttle.

So. Which direction do I go to figure this one out? Anyone ever have this type of symptoms? The motor starts soooo easy. Can't even hear it running!
 



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While the motor was out I did a new fuel filter. The cats were clear and the motor had great power before the timing chain job.

So if I think I have fuel, and think I have no back pressure issues, where would an ace tuner go for the next step?
 






Hope you find something simple, but I suspect a timing chain issue. Something did not get aligned right.

Ed
 






The timing seems to be a straightforward process. I had the complete tool set and double checked my settings. After I rolled it through a couple times I was able to set the cam shaft tool on each cam while the crank was at TDC. The cam shaft tool slid on both shafts with ease, after all tensioners were installed and the sprocket bolts torqued.
The motor runs and sounds dead smooth. I hope this means I have an engine external problem, but I'm up for ideas on how to proceed, or what I might check at this point.
 












I can't hit 50 in drive. So I either manually shift into a lower gear, or floor it. The tranny steps down a couple of gears, and at around 3500 rpm I reach about 50. The motor drops to about 2000 rpm in drive. I can not maintain 50 on the level. I gradually increase throttle til its pretty far down, but holding at about 2,000 rpm and doing about 47 mph.
 






I did make it to 55 on a mile downhill. So it is possible. I actually checked to see if my brakes were hanging somehow. They should 'a been smoking by then! Test driving is a little bit of a challenge, as any roads by my house are snow/ice covered. In 1st gear the 4WD does kick in when starting from 0, but once I'm rolling it doesn't have enough snap to spin the rear in any gear.
 






Sounds like something is not connected right somewhere. Sounds more electrical than anything else. if the engine can get to 3500 RPM its definitely not the engine.
 






Got codes now

After a 10 mile drive and a couple of startups I have p1131 and p1507.
 






Other info:

When in neutral or park, it will rev to 4 or 5 thousand rpm fairly quickly, almost normally. So the no load situation seems to be normal. It would take a few miles and almost full throttle to get to 70, but might be doable.
 






Sounds like something is still disconnected to have both those codes thrown

P1131-Lack of Upstream Heated Oxygen Sensor Switch - Sensor Indicates Lean - Bank No. 1
P1507-Idle Air Control Under Speed Error
 






clean your MAF, PCV, and IAC maybe?

Deff sounds like electrical or an air problem.

Your codes are for oxygen sensor fault, and idle air control underspeed error.
 






Sounds like something is still disconnected to have both those codes thrown

P1131-Lack of Upstream Heated Oxygen Sensor Switch - Sensor Indicates Lean - Bank No. 1
P1507-Idle Air Control Under Speed Error

bah beat me to it lol
 






Edit: didnt know there were other replies already so disregard my post.

Well I would check out those codes of course. If we were in the land of distributors I'd check my timing but idk how the ignition timing around here works. So im of no use lol
 






A computer Question:

Would any of the commercially available computer software help me in this situation. I have a plain old El Cheapo code reader. Would a OBD port wire connected to my laptop enable me to read any real time stuff. Or any of the voltages coming from the temp sensors, O2 sensors, fuel pressure, or any of that stuff? Does any of it get more specific, and is it usable by an average ridge runner like myself?
 






Many thanks for the replies. What I've done:

I have checked out the MAF and the IAC. They appear to be clean as a whistle, but I hit 'wm with MAF cleaner anyway.
I am not certain that they can have such a massive effect on my loaded rpm, but if I was certain, I'd know what was happening and fix it.

I like the thought about ignition timing. In the old days, I'd test drive this Explorer and jump out and say the timing is about 20 deg. late.

How in the heckollah does a guy check his timing in this century?

Or, how now since we've invented the wheel, does a person check to see if fuel is being delivered, and electrical pulses are really flashing that injector, and is it on time?
 






With out the real deal reader you will be doing a wild goose chase for the most part. You best bet would be do as shadow mentioned and clean some parts then work your way onto changing stuff out.
 






Can a real deal reader be purchased for hundreds of dollars, or is it thousands?

It occurs to me that knowledge might be cheaper than parts when I might just be throwing darts at the board. Plus it sounds like fun. I could drive into a wall while looking down at a computer screen?:D
 






Not sure if the crank sensor can be moved, but maybe worth a try.
 



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The way to read the pulses on parts you would need an oscilloscope to see the sign wave. I believe some of the really high end stuff shows the pulses now as well. Real deal readers are normally in the $$$$.$$ range and not the $$$.$$ range unfortunately
 






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