Motor is in! Runs!....can't get over 50? | Page 2 | Ford Explorer Forums - Serious Explorations

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Motor is in! Runs!....can't get over 50?

Or, how now since we've invented the wheel, does a person check to see if fuel is being delivered, and electrical pulses are really flashing that injector, and is it on time?

In theory, if there wasn't any, or enough fuel going to and being sprayed out by an injector you'd get a misfire code, or even a lean code in some circumstances. It's all electronic, and with OBD II would report back to the PCM.

The way to read the pulses on parts you would need an oscilloscope to see the sign wave. I believe some of the really high end stuff shows the pulses now as well. Real deal readers are normally in the $$$$.$$ range and not the $$$.$$ range unfortunately

I wanna get my hands on my own WDS sooo bad. It's so pretty and fun lol
 



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Firing order, MAF sensor & TPS

It sounds like your engine lacks power.
Make sure that you have the spark plugs connected correctly:

Engine
rear
3 6
2 5
1 4
front

Coil
rear
1 2 3
5 6 4
front

Make sure the camshaft position sensor is connected.

I suggest that you test the MAF sensor MAF Sensor Test Procedure and the TPS TPS Test Procedure
 






I'm on it.

I believe that my ignition wires are ok, but I will double check.

And the cam sensor. Is there a standard resistance or voltage it should have?

Then I'll read how to do the TPS and the MAF. It will take a little while, since I just found my Ranger's EGR is a two piecer. The darn thing only made it 15 years. I don't know why the boss that accepts the threaded pipe fitting gave up and cracked, but it was an easy diagnose. So I'll run the snowbanks and the sludge into town, get the EGR, fix the Ranger, and then do the tests. If my bod's still got the joooosse. I will post my results, probably tomorrow.
 






Have you checked fuel pressure? It's funny. The car running this poorly should throw more codes.
 






It's funny. The car running this poorly should throw more codes.

That's what I'm thinking, unless they are pending and havent gone freeze-frame yet...
 












In theory, if there wasn't any, or enough fuel going to and being sprayed out by an injector you'd get a misfire code, or even a lean code in some circumstances. It's all electronic, and with OBD II would report back to the PCM.



I wanna get my hands on my own WDS sooo bad. It's so pretty and fun lol

Wds hasn't been around for like about 5 Years, we now use IDS.
 






Wds hasn't been around for like about 5 Years, we now use IDS.

and anyone can load it on their computer if you have a fmcdealer login... its the vcm to connect it to the obd2 that cant be had for under $2k
 












MAF readings

Ok. I have been to town. The Ex spent all night out in the 1 inch of snow. Here are my MAF readings. I have no tach, so I am standing in front of the truck, engine running. Idle .24 volts
about 1800 .26
2400 .40
3600 0
4500 0
I tried it about a dozen times. Occasionally it will flash a 2.2 volts, really briefly at any rpm. But it always reads zero at probably anything over 3,000rpm--this is obviously by ear, the rpm that is.?????????????
Am I doing this right? Lightblue/red pos, lightblue/tan neg
 






That is not right at all. It should climb with engine speed, toward 5v

Be sure the black probe is on the signal ground pin, and the red probe is on the reference pin.

Also, make sure your DVM is set to the 20v dc scale
 






Doh!!!!!!!!!!!!

Just call me Homer.
Thanks Turdle. When my digital VOM is set at 2 it freaks out when the voltages exceed 2 apparently.

So I have retried that, and it checks within the parameters as posted on Street Rod's posting for MAF sensors.

While I was at it, I checked the TPS sensors voltages. .9 at rest and 4.6 at WOT.

I think I will hunt down or purchase a fuel pressure tester for my next move. I changed the fuel filter while the motor was out. It reeked of rotten gas so dissected it. I suspect it is the original. If a person can buy an already bad filter, maybe that is my problem. The Adventure continues. A hearty thanks to all who have posted and are helping in my quest. I will get it!
 






A fuel pressure test is in order and for $30-50 is a good investment and you know how to take care of a tool so you'll have it forever and we use noid lights to check for injector pulse at the pigtail. Noid light sets can be had for $10-20 I suspect you have injector pulse.
Your timing chain job sounds good and the tools make it almost foolproof but I dunno it sounds like retarded timing, is it backfiring ?
 






Well I purchased my fuel pressure tester at O'Rielly Auto parts for like 40-50 bucks, or maybe it was cheaper, I do not remember. I would definitely check the fuel pressure, sounds like there could be an issue. It would be nice to hook it up, and read the pressure while driving under a load, but the readings should be the same either way, right? Good luck at any rate. maybe there is a vacuum leak at the FPR?
 






Your timing chain job sounds good and the tools make it almost foolproof but I dunno it sounds like retarded timing, is it backfiring ?
That's what I was thinking. It's kind of hard to mess up the timing job if everything goes correctly. But it sounds like retarded timing. Is there electronic timing advance for these engines? I really have no idea, because this is the newest engine I have ever worked on.
 






Engine status, update, review:

I am purchasing a fuel pressure tester, and a set of noid lights. It will take more than a week 'cuz I am retired, so we are taking a few days off to go further North for some real cold and snow!
Here is my engine, Ex. status review, project and symptoms to date:
116,000 mi. 1999 Sport, SOHC 4.0.

Cold day start, revved to the moon. Warm weather, no problem. A slight tremor when at warm idle.

Heard one awesome startup rattle, decided to do engine removal, TC job

Did same. installed, chopped off rusty muffler, changed fuel filter. Worst I ever saw or smelled, suspect it was original. (I only owned it about 500 mi)

Have now driven it 20 mi. since TC job. Starts well, idles SLOW. Runs dead silent. In Neutral or park it revs to a no load rpm 4,000 or higher, not as quickly as my 4.0 OHV Ranger.
I think I have no exhaust or intake air leaks.
It has no power, sloooowly climbs to about 45, only faster when going downhill. Appears to shift well either using D, 1, or 2, throttle step down also works.
I have put vacuum on the egr vac port at idle, which really stutters the motor. Egr appears to be receiving no vacuum at idle, which I take to be all normal. The MAF 'engine running',and the TPS 'key on' voltages test proper.

The motor does not backfire, stutter, or make any noises. Dead smooth and can't hardly hear it run, except a slight shudder when running below 1100 rpm.
I have been researching software and cables for laptops. Some vendors claim having installable hardware with the ability to ascertain individual cylinder ignition timing, individual o2 sensor results, and graphing of MAF air. It sounds like fun if true, so I think I'll bite on that. Ice fishing is a little slow now anyway.
 












What would you do Next?

I have a scanner now. I had a code for IAT value too high. That was easy to find. On my Ex the intake air sensor is part of the MAF sensor, and that big connecting wire clip was not seated well.
The only other pending code is slow idle rpm.
The good news is that TPS, ECT sensor, MAF, cyl #1 timing, all seem accurate and normal. Engine load at 1,000 rpm is 49%, actuall Throttle is 18%, timing about 18 Deg. BTDC. Advances to about 35 deg at about 3,000 rpm.

I get no voltage from #1 sensor on bank#1, and only .02v on #2 on that bank. With rpm, #2 voltage increases just slightly.
I have 62lbs fuel pressure, constant at any rpm.

Soooo, what would you look at next if you were me? It still starts great, idles slow and shaky. Smooth after 1,000 rpm, but no more power than a 3cyl Geo Metro. I can go anywhere I want so long as it is downhill!
 






Oh yeah. Streetrod:
I have zero startup flare. No jump in rpm at all. No more startup rattle. Without throttle it lumbers along at about 600 rpm.
Bank #2 reads .51 and .78 volts.
Short term fuel trims % bounce around zero. Mostly always less than 3 or -3 Deg.
Closed loop fuel system status.
 



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ibdranger,

Your O2 sensors should constantly vary from .1 to 1 volt. If it shows no voltage then it is bad. This is in closed loop. What are your LTFT numbers?

Ed
 






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