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Motor noisy.

stevesmustang

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Year, Model & Trim Level
2001 XLS 4 Door 4.0 liter
Hi i am new to site. I have a 2001 ford explorer, i just went to start it up today and the upper part of the motor was very noisy. I gave it gas and white smoke came out the exhaust. I was thinking maybe blown head gasket, but no water in oil. I had the thermostat stick on me yesterday on a hot day and it overheated. Do you think the heads are cracked? Why is the lifters sound so noisy now? I have changed headgaskets on them before and heard of cracked heads. How much am i looking at to get remanufactered heads? Is it normal for upper part of the motor to get noisy when it goes like that? Remember i have no water in the oil. But noise sound like a motor low on oil but in the valve covers. Thanks in advance
 
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clinton03

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1991 explorer xl 4wd
I have a 91 explorer xl but ive worked on fords alot. Most 3.0 and 4.0 Fuel injected fords tend to make a clatter noise. It sounds like you need new valves but everything turns out fine.
 
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BrooklynBay

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stevesmustang

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Thanks sorry i posted in the wrong place

Oil pressure is good, it flies right up on gauge. It overheated, and now smokes a little white out exhaust, and the valves are noisey. i can get redone heads with new cams and lifters all i have to do is reuse or get new cam gears all for $350.00. i sprayed all the exhausts bolts down with penetrating oil, so hopefull they come out with ease. along with all the other bolts.
 
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stevesmustang

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2001 XLS 4 Door 4.0 liter
Need help with the 4.0 head change

Ok i ordered 2 new heads, new cams and lifters came with them i got em for 350$ with unlimited milage 1 year warrenty. Refresh its a 4.0 SOHC motor. well got it stripped down today and ready to pull the heads and noticed the passenger side timing chain is loose.(is that called LH Cylinder? owner manuel says LH and RH and i want to be right. What do you guys recommend? Do you think tensioner is shot? And its been a long while since i did one of these give me some pointers on how to keep chain and cam sprocket from falling, i know i will have to check the timing mark with the cam position since it may of jumped since chain is loose. Any pointers on that to, my chiltons manuel is funky. I have worked on them before but forgot alot, i used to build my own 302's and other motors for my mustang but havent done alot of these and its kinda an emergency to get it fixed quickly. I am ready to remove the heads so give me pointers especially the passenger side since cam chain and sprocket is in the back. Is that the LH head? Thanks in advance Steve
 
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bluestream1

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2000 XLT 4.0 SOHC 4X4
You can remove the right side tensioner through the wheel well. Take it out and have a look at it, it may be weak or shot. Hopefully the guides are good. The tensioner for that side is not that expensive
 
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stevesmustang

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2001 XLS 4 Door 4.0 liter
Gonna go through wheel well

Thanks for the help, so i should pretty much just get a new tensioner it sounds like, i just hope it didnt jump time and a valve smack a piston. I have the new heads cam and lifters with the new assembled heads, well remanufactured. thanks gonna go work on it today. Steve
 
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stevesmustang

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2001 XLS 4 Door 4.0 liter
tools for the job

Ok a few questions, like i said its been a while since i did one of these kinda motors and did it at another persons garage and used their tools, i have alot of tools, but it says i need more in the manual, i thought i didnt use these tools but i think i am wrong. it says i need a camshaft gear positioning tool, do i have to have one or is there another way. also i have number 1 on the compression stroke and on the 0, is it supposed to be on the 0 on it or the 10. i seen 10 somewhere, but am confused i know other motors i have worked on it was 0. also how do i know when the cam is in the right spot when i install the new heads? i know the number 1 valves have to be closed on the compression stroke or the valves will hit the pistons. my chiltons manual i got is the worse for help, it tells you steps for all the motors and makes it tough to follow. can i if i have to buy the cam tool get it from auto parts or go to dealer? i am ready to unbolt the old heads and take off but i want to do it all right. i read strap rubber band around the chain and cassett on the LH one which i now know is the drivers side head and the RH is pass side and it says remove sprocket on that side just to get the head off but still use rubber bands. Let me know what to do about the tool and if anyone has good pictures or anything please post. Thanks Steve
 
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stevesmustang

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2001 XLS 4 Door 4.0 liter
wierd

Ok i said i have the number 1 on compression stroke on the 0 mark on the dampner, ok now the chain isnt loose on the pass side. Whats up with that? I have the pass side front cylinder up on compression stroke and dampner on the 0. I dont think the chain jumped much if at all since the valves are closed on the number 1 on the compression stroke but i am confused on why the chain is tight now? Also how does a rubber band around the chain and tensioner not allow chain to fall into motor? if it does it seems that it wouldnt be hard to feel it go back on. Thanks and sorry my posts are so long i am just trying to do this right and myself. I just havent done alot of them and not lately. Steve
 
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stevesmustang

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2001 XLS 4 Door 4.0 liter
Cam alignment tool

I went to go buy the cam alignment tool, i figured it would be as cheap or close to price of renting it, the only one they had was 300$ trying to find a rental place to rent 1 no way am i paying that much to get that tool and use once. I am going Friday morning to rent the cam tool. How does it work, is it pretty easy to setup the cams again? thanks
 
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stevesmustang

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City, State
Jerome, Michigan
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2001 XLS 4 Door 4.0 liter
Cant rent the tools

Ok i searched all day at every auto parts store and tool rental place nobody has the cam positioning tool and they dont even understand what it is. Any ways i was thinking as long as the pistons anre the same spot when i pulled the heads off and the cams on the new heads are positioned in the same spot as the old ones i should be able to hook it up and be good as long as when i tighten the cam sprocket, that cams stay in place and the motor dont rotate. I see no reason why it wont work? Them tools basically from what i read just hold the cam sprockets still. i can do that other ways. I am gonna try it as long as everything is the same when i put it back together as when i took it apart, it should and has to be good.
 
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