Motorcraft oil pressure switches

[koda2000]

Why are Motorcraft oil pressure switches such poor quality? Every one of the Explorer's, Mountaineer's, my Sport Trac (SOHC's and V8's) and my daughter's 3.0L V6 Ford Fusion has had intermittent, or occasional, "CHECK GAGE" light come on because the oil pressure switches register no/low oil pressure. I just bought 3 brand new Motorcraft oil pressure switches from RA. I installed one on my freshly rebuilt Sport Trac's SOHC. one on my daughter's Fusion and I was going to install the remaining one in our 2000 Mountaineer (which banged the oil pressure needle so hard and so frequently that to broke the oil gauge's needle stop peg off the instrument cluster's face).

Putting a real oil pressure gauge on these vehicles indicated no issues with low oil pressure. I replaced the pressure switch while my Sport Trac's engine was out, because it's a bit of a PITA to change it with the engine in the truck. I figured I was being proactive, as I recalled it once failed to register oil pressure after sitting for a couple of months. The new switch worked fine for about 100 miles and then would not work intermittently. As I had a second new switch handy I installed it. Problem solved (for a while anyway).

The next time I have a Motorcraft oil pressure switch crap-out on me I'm going to just buy whatever aftermarket band that Autozone sells. As oil pressure is so critical on the SOHC engines, I had also installed a new OE oil pump while the engine was apart. I plan to also install a permanent "real" oil pressure gauge on my SOHC using a oil sandwich-style oil filter adapter, which I can also use to install my pre-oiler as it comes with 2 ports.

 

[Mr. Alligator]

I also had a faulty Motorcraft oil pressure switch, bought from Ford. No more trashy after market parts.

The oil pressure switch was bad out of the box, and it caused me to (1) worry about the immediate future of my engine, (2) buy an actual oil pressure gauge, (3) post on this Forum to try to get help, and finally, (4) trouble-shoot the system all the way back to the “gauge”. At which point I determined that the switch was faulty right out of the box.

Dang.

 

[1998Exp]

Took a look at the RA merchandise, and the Motorcraft-branded sensor is the cheapest - probably for a reason. Sadly, the fact that Motorcraft puts its name on something doesn't mean much these days. I would spend a couple bucks more and buy something else.
In any case, good idea about that backup gauge. These switches don't turn the warning light on until the pressure drops to around 5psi; at that point your engine my have suffered severely, and for a long time.

 

[CDW6212R]

I haven't ever had a faulty original oil pressure sensor. I have had two which weeped oil through them, and I replaced one with an OEM part I bought long before. I think the quality of replacement parts has dropped dramatically, including Ford's. Plus the rise of counterfeit Ford parts, it's harder than ever to find good parts.

For the 98+ models with the dummy sensor(ON/OFF), I would suggest finding the process to make an old large actual pressure sensor work with the stock gauge. The pre-98's are much larger sensor, and they produce a varying signal based on the oil pressure. If the pressure really does get low such as 15psi or lower, you should want to be able to see that, before it drops to under 5psi, when the dummy system is too late to help.

 

[koda2000]

I haven't ever had a faulty original oil pressure sensor. I have had two which weeped oil through them, and I replaced one with an OEM part I bought long before. I think the quality of replacement parts has dropped dramatically, including Ford's. Plus the rise of counterfeit Ford parts, it's harder than ever to find good parts.

For the 98+ models with the dummy sensor(ON/OFF), I would suggest finding the process to make an old large actual pressure sensor work with the stock gauge. The pre-98's are much larger sensor, and they produce a varying signal based on the oil pressure. If the pressure really does get low such as 15psi or lower, you should want to be able to see that, before it drops to under 5psi, when the dummy system is too late to help.

As far as I know (except for this latest brand-new failed pressure switch) all my failed oil pressure switches were original OE.

I'd rather put a real, good quality oil pressure gauge on an "A" pillar pod-mount. BTW - I looked into returning my defective Motorcraft oil pressure switch to RA for a replacement/refund, but they want me to paid the return shipping ($4.30 on a $7 part... not worth it).

 

[410Fortune]

I never really have an issue with these switches.......leaks yes, but fail to read oil pressure, not really. Usually only when somebody pinches a wire or they get really really high miles, like well over 250K
Maybe it is the oil being used? Maybe not changed enough? I cannot imagine that being correct considering who is asking, I know you are good at oil changes

 

[koda2000]

I never really have an issue with these switches.......leaks yes, but fail to read oil pressure, not really. Usually only when somebody pinches a wire or they get really really high miles, like well over 250K
Maybe it is the oil being used? Maybe not changed enough? I cannot imagine that being correct considering who is asking, I know you are good at oil changes

I use Mobil 1 full synthetic oils and have since they first came out. I also do regular oil changes w/high quality oil filters, so I don't think that contributes to all my failed switches. IDK why I have such bad luck with these switches. On the plus side I've haven't had to deal with a leaky one since I replaced the one in my dad's '65 Thunderbird when I was just 16 years old.

BTW - If you have a SOHC w/intermittent low/no oil pressure, start by dropping the lower oil pan and checking for broken pieces of tan plastic from the rear timing chain cassette. The pieces are curved and tend to fall into the oil pan where they surround the oil pump pickup, blocking oil. While your in there remove the oil pump pickup screen and clean it. It tends to get clogged with aluminium grit from the loose timing chains sawing their was through your heads.

 

[C420sailor]

I had my original one fail at 250k. Replaced it. Since then, it’ll occasionally start to dance, but it has always turned out to be a connection issue—I’ll pull the connector off, put it back on, and then it’s fine for a good while.

 

[donalds]

Dam I had a weeping oil pressure switch on my old motor ...original...
I replaced with a oem motorcraft unit no problems so far

Shoot good luck koda

 

[Runnin'OnEmpty]

I've had three or four of those puppies fail on my 2 Sports, over the years.
All have been Motorcraft, both original and replacement.
The latest failure was last fall while out of town. When the oil gauge started
fluctuating, I suspected it was the switch, but it was scary nevertheless...

Next time I'm trying another brand. Maybe install a real gauge when I get
the time.

 

[donalds]

Wish I could install a real gauge using the factory instrument cluster on these 98+ models

 

[koda2000]

Wish I could install a real gauge using the factory instrument cluster on these 98+ models

As @CDW6212R posted, you can modify your cluster's oil "gauge" pretty easily and install the early oil pressure sender (not an oil pressure switch) and your cluster's gauge will work like a real gauge.

 

[CDW6212R]

Yes, here was at least one thread here about doing that, but I'd guess it was 10-15 years back. I think it came down to altering the cluster circuit with a resistor or something simple like that.

 

[koda2000]

These are the parts I'm looking at to install a real oil pressure gauge... The gauge is electronic comes with the sending unit. I figure I can use the 22mm sandwich-style oil filter adapter ports for the gauge's sender and to hookup my pre-oiler.

Amazon.com: GlowShift Oil Filter Sandwich Plate Thread Adapter - 22mm x 1.5 Thread - Install up to (4) 1/8-27 NPT Oil Pressure & Temperature Sensors - Includes O-Ring & Port Plugs: Automotive

Buy GlowShift Oil Filter Sandwich Plate Thread Adapter - 22mm x 1.5 Thread - Install up to (4) 1/8-27 NPT Oil Pressure & Temperature Sensors - Includes O-Ring & Port Plugs: Oil Filters & Accessories - Amazon.com ✓ FREE DELIVERY possible on eligible purchases

www.amazon.com

https://www.summitracing.com/parts/atm-1327

https://www.summitracing.com/parts/atm-15309

 

[donalds]

98+ models instrument clusters don't have the resistor in it

So to make it work I would need a cluster from a 98 and older and a sender
Or
Just the oil pressure section of the 98 and older explorer instrument cluster and add a resistor to the back of it

 

[CDW6212R]

The cluster is in sections, with one wiring "harness" laying over that. I think the oil pressure gauge itself is the same besides the light color and needle colors for various models.

 

[Mbrooks420]

Never had an issue on any of my Fords.

 

[koda2000]

98+ models instrument clusters don't have the resistor in it

So to make it work I would need a cluster from a 98 and older and a sender
Or
Just the oil pressure section of the 98 and older explorer instrument cluster and add a resistor to the back of it

Well, IDK. My 5 mins of Googling the subject said that there are 2 resistors and you remove one and replace it with a piece of regular wire. Then install the earlier sender. I wouldn't go this route mainly because even if it works there are no numbers on the OE dummy gauge.

 

[donalds]

Well, IDK. My 5 mins of Googling the subject said that there are 2 resistors and you remove one and replace it with a piece of regular wire. Then install the earlier sender. I wouldn't go this route mainly because even if it works there are no numbers on the OE dummy gauge.

I agree no markings no mod
But you basically nailed it except the actual gauge module is different in 98+ so you need a older cluster gauge module
My take was just swap clusters bridge the resistor
and put in a sender but the no markings on the gauge was the deal breaker for me
I just installed a gauge on my pre oiler just to check here and there

 

[koda2000]

I agree no markings no mod
But you basically nailed it except the actual gauge module is different in 98+ so you need a older cluster gauge module
My take was just swap clusters bridge the resistor
and put in a sender but the no markings on the gauge was the deal breaker for me
I just installed a gauge on my pre oiler just to check here and there

I like the white face gauge on the A-pillar because the instrument cluster in the Sport Trac is white and I've already installed a white overlay over the grey HVAC control panel. Also, having the gauge on the A-pillar you don't need to take your eyes off the road to see it.